What is the point of a 70cc saw…

[andyshine77]

I've seen a few of the control bolts with a screw in place of the nub. You screw it in and round it over to the correct height, and polish it so it doesn't create too much friction. It's definitely the saw week point. If you make sure the bar oil is real clean the bolt seems to last longer.

At one time Nik was going to start making them out of bronze.

 

[mettee]

There is a round plastic nub with a square end on the end of the control bolt. That square end rounds off after a couple hundred hours and you go from oiling plenty on a 32 to barely oiling a 24

Gonna go look

 

[David Young]

With a ported 60 what’s the point of an 80?
50 and70 was THE 2 saw plan. But like Steve eluded who has just two saws?

 

[David Young]

I wish husky went to 52mm with the 372 and 48mm with the 357. If only

 

[cus_deluxe]

I wish husky went to 52mm with the 372 and 48mm with the 357. If only

Im guessin they learned stuff from the 272 (52 mm) platform. By most accounts, not much better than a good 266. Also seems like saw mfg's just plain ol' dont like makin saws that dont round nicely to the tens place anymore.

 

[Maintenance Chief]

I wish husky went to 52mm with the 372 and 48mm with the 357. If only

Imagine if dealers could install factory fast parts ? Like automobile manufacturers used to do! Obviously there's a market for it despite the quality of parts.

 

[Czed]

Im guessin they learned stuff from the 272 (52 mm) platform. By most accounts, not much better than a good 266. Also seems like saw mfg's just plain ol' dont like makin saws that dont round nicely to the tens place anymore.

I cannot tell any difference in power at all from ported 266/268/272s
I run all three often but only with 24" bar's
We have small tree's

 

[Stump Shot]

I cannot tell any difference in power at all from ported 266/268/272s
I run all three often but only with 24" bar's
We have small tree's

I used to cut alongside a 266 with my 272, it wouldn't win until there's a big log involved, then it takes over.

 

[Czed]

I used to cut alongside a 266 with my 272, it wouldn't win until there's a big log involved, then it takes over.

This is all we have

 

[Normzilla]

In the PNW, a 372 or 461 can be a do-all saw that is a good chassis for a 24" bar, a 28" bar, a 32" bar, and for the XPW and 461 a 36" bar. My 390 feels porky compared to my 372, so if I need a 32" bar I'll grab the 372. Stihl's last 80cc saw was the 064 (which I haven't run), and if I have to carry them for any length of time the 066 is not gonna win out over a 461 unless I need those extra 15 cc's.

That porky comment put a smile on my face, and true in the comparison

 

[Normzilla]

I used to cut alongside a 266 with my 272, it wouldn't win until there's a big log involved, then it takes over.

Ah the good Ole 266 and 272. I knew guys falling timber and running long bars on both. Many shops I talked too said that 266 was one of the best saws ever produced.

 

[Normzilla]

...when there are 80cc saws that weigh nearly the same?

When I started getting serious about cutting later 80s, my logger and timber faller friends, were all packing 056s. I was running a little 028. Then got a 56 super. The rule of thumb was to pack the saw to do it all. We all went big, then 064 came out, 066. Saws guys running 272, 288 then 044s,. One day I noticed guys who only ran the 90cc saws, now packing alot of 046 magnums. One day I started running a 372, and many 46s. I thought the 372 a touch low on stump torque, 044 too. But man We cut some big trees with them, and the fuel consumption less. But then I learned when filing and sharpening you can give those smaller saws a edge they need in the stump. But my favorite class for doing all became the 046-461 platform, and husky side 288-390. I felt husky had it once with the 181, but for whatever reason, probably loggers wanting more cc, they seemed to drop that middle class on the husky side. While in my opinion the best two things Stihl ever did, their pinnacle point was and is the 20t-201 and the 046-461, but now they are on something with the 500i. But that old 372 my friend refers too as the AK-47 of chainsaws, rings true. But I've wondered why at times on the 70cc side too. But looking at it in my shoes now I'd almost say with costs so high myself I'd phase out the mid 60ccs class I'd buy the 70cc for a couple to 300 more, the weight doesn't seem that far apart to me. My go to saws now are my 500i and my ported 572. But good post Amigo.

 

[Loony661]

I have 60-92cc saws in my truck everyday, and yet my go-to saw for felling and limbing trees is my 460. Granted, it’s not stock anymore, but it has the grunt I want for plunging, back cutting, etc. And I feel it’s even more desirable than the 441 I have next to it. The 441 doesn’t have near the torque. Chain speed yes, torque no. But at any rate, 70cc class saws are my main squeeze for working over these hardwoods in the upper midwest.

Update: I sold the 60cc saw because it sat in the truck unused for about 5 months straight. Now only 70cc+ are in my arsenal.

 

[davidwyby]

What sparked the post was my 2166 (372) and 7900 weigh about the same but the 7900 has a lot more power. So why do I have the 2166?

…Cuz I like jonnyreds and didn’t know about 7900s when I bought it…and felt like my 2159 was too small sometimes. I get that 70cc is the go to size. Light enough for smaller stuff and will pull enough bar to fell big stuff even if double cutting.

I do dig the old 266s. But they weigh about the same. Seem to have more grunt than zip. A 272 by @huskihl should help level that playing field. I also really like my 288, but it’s quite a bit heavier than the 7900.

 

[davidwyby]

If I sawed more and was in better shape, I could sling larger saws longer, but that 13/14lb class is about all I wanna sling very long. Bucking is fine but felling or limbing, I want lighter. Heavier than 7900 (288) I just wanna get it to the log and let it eat (bucking).

I kinda feel the same on the 50/60cc thing. 55/60cc saws (357) stomp on 50cc saws and aren’t much heavier. That being said @huskihl is building me a 346 because the only 50cc that ever really impressed me was a 2150 he built. Unless it’s a real strong 50cc, they seem like limbing saws to me. But maybe I’m just in too much of a hurry. Need to get my old 2050s going, always liked their light weight and snappiness for the small stuff. When I was young I tackled a big tree job for some friends and the 2050 wasn’t enough…so not knowing a whole lot I bought my 395 off fleabay. I love it and really love my 3120, but not much for felling, haha!

 

[Loony661]

In my line of work, I carry 1 saw with me and that’s why it needs to be light enough not to wear me out, yet powerful enough to be efficient and get the job done. I’m not felling trees with a saw, then going back to the truck to get another to cut the limbs off. That would be a huge waste of time (for me, in my work). On occasion, when my saw suddenly takes a nap in a tree I’m cutting, I’ll have to go back and get another saw to self rescue, but that’s a last resort. If only I could fit 2 saws with me on the skidder...

All that said, I LOVE the power of my 661 and all it has to offer when felling large diameter trees. But other than looking macho, carrying it all day just wears me down. It gets used when it comes time to buck my landing, because it’s power and speed really shine then. Just trying to clarify a bit, and reinforce the 70cc class saw argument

 

[whitesnake]

I've seen a few of the control bolts with a screw in place of the nub. You screw it in and round it over to the correct height, and polish it so it doesn't create too much friction. It's definitely the saw week point. If you make sure the bar oil is real clean the bolt seems to last longer.

At one time Nik was going to start making them out of bronze.

Yeah I’m suprised nobody has come up with some aftermarket replacement. One of the weak points of the saw.

 

[Wilhelm]

...
With the PS7900/7910 dealer support for Dolmar in a lot of places is questionable at best. I can walk into five places within 15 miles of my shop and have an air filter, bar, chain, bar nuts, or any of the minor parts for an MS 440 to 462, and a few less for a 372, 576 or 572. And the later 7910s were outperformed by 70 cc saws stock for stock anyway.
...

The PS-7910 needs the SLR/muffler gutted, period!
It is almost the same saw as the PS-7900 was, but newer regulations took a severe toll on performance and durability.
I hated my stock PS-7310 factory stock, love her ever since I gutted her muffkin!

My recent experience with parts supply confirms serious issues in the supply line, this was not the case (for me) about 2 years ago.
Personally, I can no longer recommend Dolmar/Makita 2-stroke chainsaws to anyone in good conscious, no matter whether new or used - but I am sticking to the brand as I am already fully buried in it anyway.

Utilize thinner oil and the pump will move more of it to the B&C.
The "thick & tacky" special B&C oil is a marketing trick IMHO.

 

[Catbuster]

The PS-7910 needs the SLR/muffler gutted, period!
It is almost the same saw as the PS-7900 was, but newer regulations took a severe toll on performance and durability.

That’s fine and dandy, but then there a lot of places here in the US you can’t run a modified saw, especially on FS grounds and a lot of private timber stands. I’d rather have a saw that I won’t get run off from running than one I can’t use at all. Which is my these newer 70cc class saws are where they are and they offer more than just a performance advantage over a 7910.

 

[davidwyby]

I was just makin’ conversation. I weighed the 2166, 7900, and 288 tonight since they all didn’t have bars on them. 15lb, 16lb, 17lb ish.
I figured for me why run the 2166 when I have the 7900 that will pull more bar. But yeah she’s thirsty, probably not USFS approved, and parts may become an issue.

The idea was kinda why build or run a 70cc when the same weight/chassis will support 80?