TreeMonkey Red Light 066 Build

[markds2]

You could just turn the key around back to stock timing and re test? that's what I'd do anyway.
And hurry up we need vids of this beast cutting

Sure Rogue, tomorrow hopefully. I've put another key in it this morning with about .2mm off it, its back together and just waiting for me to get out there and cut...but my day job comes first.

 

[Kiwioilboiler]

but my day job comes first.

Not usually! You go to the logpile at 0630, work at 0730. You feeling ok bro?

 

[markds2]

Not usually! You go to the logpile at 0630, work at 0730. You feeling ok bro?

Absolutely fine Adz. I only go to the woodpile at 0630 when I'm not working on saws

 

[markds2]

@Definitive Dave did you find anything out about the timing advance curve on the 1122 400 1307 CDIC-A limited coils used on these Red-light 066's?

 

[redlight066]

Nice saw! What cylinder is on that? Have you timed it?

KS cylinder. I timed it a while ago. I’ll have to see if I can find the numbers. Saw is all original. I’ve had it for about 10 years. Factory port work is exceptional.

 

[markds2]

KS cylinder. I timed it a while ago. I’ll have to see if I can find the numbers. Saw is all original. I’ve had it for about 10 years. Factory port work is exceptional.

If you look back at the start of the thread you'll see what happened to my KS cylinder...
My KS cylinder had a very thin base so not that great for taking lots off on a base cut. In fact, I had to get longer M6 bolts from original to mount this Mahle cylinder - even after Scott had taken .040 off the base.

 

[tree monkey]

what are you using for a sparkplug

 

[Definitive Dave]

@Definitive Dave did you find anything out about the timing advance curve on the 1122 400 1307 CDIC-A limited coils used on these Red-light 066's?

negative ghost rider, swallowed up in work right now

 

[Stump Shot]

I had a older ported Stihl do this to me once and if you went back stock timing it would quit.
Turned out the coil was on it's way out of working at all and once it flat gave out and was replaced. went back to being fine advanced again. I would say check the spark with a spark gap tool at about 5mm or so, it should jump this gap with a good thick blue spark with an audible snap. If thin, weak, off color or won't jump unless the gap is decreased is your sign of a coil getting to be time for replacement. At any rate it is a simple thing to confirm or deny while troubleshooting the issue.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Just to clarify, the stihl required plug gap is 0.5mm I guess that’s 20thou or there abouts.
I,m metric

It’s easy to miss the dot But we all know what stumpshot was meaning

Thanks for your good work Steve ..

 

[markds2]

what are you using for a sparkplug

Hello Scott, thanks for coming along! It's a Japanese made NGK BPMR7A

 

[markds2]

I had a older ported Stihl do this to me once and if you went back stock timing it would quit.
Turned out the coil was on it's way out of working at all and once it flat gave out and was replaced. went back to being fine advanced again. I would say check the spark with a spark gap tool at about 5mm or so, it should jump this gap with a good thick blue spark with an audible snap. If thin, weak, off color or won't jump unless the gap is decreased is your sign of a coil getting to be time for replacement. At any rate it is a simple thing to confirm or deny while troubleshooting the issue.

Thanks for your detailed response Steve, I'll certainly try that. I don't have one of these tools so will have hunt for one today.

 

[markds2]

Or do you mean adjust the gap on an old plug to 5mm and see it it will jump it?

 

[markds2]

negative ghost rider, swallowed up in work right now

I'm sorry to bother you Dave

 

[tree monkey]

spark needs to be able to jump 1/4 inch for the coil to be healthy

 

[Stump Shot]

Just to clarify, the stihl required plug gap is 0.5mm I guess that’s 20thou or there abouts.
I,m metric

It’s easy to miss the dot But we all know what stumpshot was meaning

Thanks for your good work Steve ..

No, I really meant 5mm(1/4 inch) air gap, this will mimic the spark plug trying to fire under compression. There's plenty of cheap simple tools out there to perform this test. Stihl offers one with a micrometer type setting to achieve specs laid out in their repair guides.

 

[markds2]

spark needs to be able to jump 1/4 inch for the coil to be healthy

Scott, I just grabbed an old plug and bent the end so the gap was like this:

Turned the lights out and it jumps that gap beautifully with a nice blue spark. I'm going out now to test the saw and will take some video. Keep an eye out

 

[markds2]

Here it is, certainly no slouch but still popping...

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Thanks for the clarification, I thought just maybe ,,,, but I also thought... nah He missed the dot. As I was reading it’s important to have a right gap with that coil..

Ahh well, I'll go sit in the corner.

 

[redlight066]

I know you’ve said it was worse with more fuel. But It sure seems like you could fatten the tune up a little. Still have the timing advanced?