TreeMonkey Red Light 066 Build

[markds2]

I've never done a build thread before but I thought this might be a good candidate. I picked up what looked like a low hour early 066 from our local auction site:

When it arrived I found it low on compression:

Nice KS cylinder with the plating stripped off from a cheap no name piston and rings
Kevin @huskihl found me a nice early non-decomp Mahle cylinder which he kindly sent to Scott @tree monkey for him to monkey about on

 

[markds2]

While waiting on the cylinder I've stripped the saw right down and have found that its actually very original with the original metal shielded bearings. Scott advised that it would be best to swap these out for the newer ones so I've got a full rebuild with OEM parts underway. I also recoated the cases with a Valspar industrial enamel which I baked on in the oven.
Old bearings out, crank cleaned and new bearings ready to go:

Flywheel side in and the new high output oiler installed ready for a location reference for the PTO side:

PTO side in

I use this little Arbour press for pushing the bearings in, after heating the case side with the heat gun

 

[markds2]

Next is a smear of Loctite 515 on each mating surface:

 

[markds2]

Then the new gasket

 

[markds2]

Now I get to use one of the best investments I've ever made in tools, thanks @Mattyo

Always start on the flywheel side on these saws, then you don't need to worry about the conrod falling down when you do the PTO side:

 

[markds2]

Pull it together making sure the location pins line up.

Case bolts in and torqued down to spec

Give each crank stub a whack with a brass hammer to make sure the crank spins free

 

[ManiacalMark]

Looks like this will be a cool build, parts look pretty low hour. My 1997 066 is the only saw I ever plan to restore and make a shelf queen.

 

[markds2]

Although this will look like a shelf queen, I do intend to use it . Scott says he's never sent a cylinder or a saw to NZ before.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

Nice thread,

the cylinder. Looks like an air leak to me, I would have thought it would be all the way round if it was a non compatible set of rings. but I’m no expert.

did you get the timing numbers from the oem cylinder

look fwd to it eating wood in a vid.
cheers

 

[Mattyo]

Did ya giggle when u used the tools? Hehe

 

[markds2]

Nice thread,

the cylinder. Looks like an air leak to me, I would have thought it would be all the way round if it was a non compatible set of rings. but I’m no expert.

did you get the timing numbers from the oem cylinder

look fwd to it eating wood in a vid.
cheers

Definitely not an air leak, there was plenty of oil about and there's deep gouges all around, the piston looks like this:

No timing numbers sorry, it was off the saw in a jiffy!

 

[markds2]

Did ya giggle when u used the tools? Hehe

Every time Mattyo, my wife wonders whats up with me LOL

 

[huskihl]

Every time Mattyo, my wife wonders whats up with me LOL

She probably thinks you talk kinda funny too

 

[markds2]

She probably thinks you talk kinda funny too

Yes, a giggle sounds queer with a NZ accent LOL

 

[markds2]

All the original rubbers were good, except the upper right AV mount (which is often the first to go)

 

[markds2]

Next is the crank seals, new OEM:

PTO side sitting in place, be careful to not dislodge the spring when getting it over the step in the shaft. Edit: Always put a smear of light oil on the seal lips before installing the seals

I use a large deep socket to tap it into place making sure its flush with the surface of the bearing

 

[markds2]

The flywheel side is easier, I simply use Mattyo's tool to gently push it into place nice and square. No step in the shaft to worry about

 

[markds2]

Next I trim the excess case gasket off flush with the cylinder mating surface:

New OEM piston and crank pin bearing:

Randy @Mastermind is this oil suitable for assembly lube or will it cause premature scuffing?

Piston on and clip in, making sure that the ring gap is at the 12o'clock position

 

[markds2]

Before mounting the oil pump make sure this little rubber seal on the output side is in place:

Oil pump, chain adjuster and chainbrake assembly all in place, everything greased with Stihl grease

And the original cover screwed in place

 

[Mastermind]

Randy @Mastermind is this oil suitable for assembly lube or will it cause premature scuffing?

Depends on the ratio. Are you cutting it? Cause you can't be cutting it. No one likes their stuff cut.