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Tips for folks starting to sharpen their own chains

Crzybowhntr

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I thought I'd post a few super basic things I've learned over time that may seem obvious to most, but have helped me sharpen my chains better. Yes, I realize all these have been covered in various conversations on the forum but I'm one of those that has to learn by doing and not reading. I have the scars to prove it, lol.

If you fund this useful please add to it or correct me where I'm wrong.

In no specific order...

When using a round file with a guide on it you should file your rakers first so the file is allowed to go deep enough.

I think you should use a simple file guide (designed for your specific chain) when starting out so you can see what portions of the tooth the file should be working.

When using a grinder, you should not go deep enough to clean out the gullet at the same time you're sharpening the tooth. However, you could make a secondary pass to clean the gullet while not letting the wheel hit the cutting portion of the tooth.

Cleaning chains before sharpening does help even though it may take a few extra moments. I let them soak in straight gas for a few minutes and then hit them with compressed air. Saves on having to clean grinder wheels and changing files as often.

Don't be afraid to try a few sharpening tools until you find one you like, no matter if it is popular on a forum or not.

Ask the folks who seem to know what they're doing because more than likely they'd like to give you advice.

Don't browse YouTube for a good video on how to use a grinder. I could not find one that explained how far to grind into the tooth but did find a bunch on how to set one up.

Don't be afraid to change dull files. That's why they sell them in bulk.

Use a sharpie to color the cutting portion of the tooth so you can be sure the file has sharpened the bits it needs to.

Good lighting and vision enhancement (if needed) really help.

Take your time and don't get frustrated. It's not rocket surgery even though it feels like it sometimes until you find what works for you.

Practice on old chains.
 

pbillyi69

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dont be afraid to try and look at a good chain to see what it looks like and try for that shape. once your skills get to where can obtain the shape of a new sharp chain and repeat it then you can start to make changes in the angles that you file into any given chain and see how it affects the cutting ability. pretty soon you will be able to file free hand and will be able to look at your cutters and see if they are where you want them to be. practice
 

5155

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? for you filers.
Now using new to me stihl brand chain.
Getting a bur on side plate.
I file conservative but often,
sometimes every tank depending on dirt.

A Not filing enough metal away?
B I need to remove the bur?
C Stop touchy feely the bur and go cut more?

I know it will cut as is, just thought to ask.
 

Matt Ellerbee

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Helped my brother in law do some work, it was time to touch up the chains. I was refueling, he was playing the fiddle on that chain with the file. Touching the tooth on both strokes, to and fro. Heavy handed too. Got that corrected and he settled into a nice groove.

Morel of the story, light strokes only sharpening while pushing away from you. Lift file on return stroke.
 

pbillyi69

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? for you filers.
Now using new to me stihl brand chain.
Getting a bur on side plate.
I file conservative but often,
sometimes every tank depending on dirt.

A Not filing enough metal away?
B I need to remove the bur?
C Stop touchy feely the bur and go cut more?

I know it will cut as is, just thought to ask.
what kind of chain? how are you getting a bur? pictures help lots.
 

Moparmyway

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? for you filers.
Now using new to me stihl brand chain.
Getting a bur on side plate.

A Not filing enough metal away?
B I need to remove the bur?
C Stop touchy feely the bur and go cut more?
Are you filing into the tooth or away from it ?

My guess is away, so either file into it or C
 

Wilhelm

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Dull file will leave a bur.

The bur will come off withing the first cut or two, will make the chain feel grabby though.
 

5155

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D Zip it around the bark before starting the kerf and bur be gone.

Everything sharp has a bur but this was big.
Two things said.
This file is new but felt like crap right away. I'll switch back to my "preferred" next go around.
I might be too heavy handed just wanting it done.
 

Wilhelm

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Sharp file, full file length stroke, next to no down pressure, file the cutters from the inside out - You will see the chips ejecting out of the files teeth and there will be next to no bur.
If You have to push Your file down into the cutters Your file is dull and both the files dullness and excessive down force will create a big bur on the chains cutters.

Currently I can recommend Husqvarna intensive cut round files, I like them.
The Stihl round files have become crap, or so it feels to me - I stopped purchasing them in favor of the Husqvarna files.
I tried one Oberg and it didn't hold up too well either.
 

5155

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I think quality of files change too much to say x is good and not y.
Then come different grades and styles.
Then there's differing chain hardness.

There is an Oberg manufacturing near me but I don't think it is same as mentioned. I'll ask around.

Husky files I have are ok.
Pferd are next to best I have.
My best are super old and NLA.

Like I said no big deal.
Just things thought of while doing a chore.
 

5155

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Is this Oberg location Taufkirchen, Germany?
 

pbillyi69

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How do you hand file a chain when it is off of the saw bar?
i dont because i dont have any way to hold it. i just use the saw on the tailgate of my pickup with a 2x4 under the bar. i usuall apply pressure up as i make my stroke not a lot but never down. i dont have many chains that are round any more most of them are square now
 
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