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heimannm

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I have found that many will leak where the fuel line passes through the tank. I don't know if there were inconsistencies in the size of the hole in the tank, the molded grommets in the fuel line, or if some fuel line material just shrinks over time...

My go to solution has been to put a few wraps of Teflon thread tape around the grommet before I pull it into the hole in the tank. Some need 3-4 wraps to achieve a good snug fit.

I had one 6-10 model that does not have a full channel in the tank to contain the gasket, and neither the new cork or Viton gaskets would remain in place to positively seal the tank, so I ended up giving it the Red Kote treatment.

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Mark
 

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I have found that many will leak where the fuel line passes through the tank. I don't know if there were inconsistencies in the size of the hole in the tank, the molded grommets in the fuel line, or if some fuel line material just shrinks over time...

My go to solution has been to put a few wraps of Teflon thread tape around the grommet before I pull it into the hole in the tank. Some need 3-4 wraps to achieve a good snug fit.

I had one 6-10 model that does not have a full channel in the tank to contain the gasket, and neither the new cork or Viton gaskets would remain in place to positively seal the tank, so I ended up giving it the Red Kote treatment.

View attachment 468124

View attachment 468123

Mark
My 10-10 doesn't leak at the fuel line thankfully....just seeps out between the tank halves. I guess I'll have find some red kote and give it a shot. The saw is definitely worthy of going into my firewood saw rotation.
 

Squareground3691

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My 10-10 doesn't leak at the fuel line thankfully....just seeps out between the tank halves. I guess I'll have find some red kote and give it a shot. The saw is definitely worthy of going into my firewood saw rotation.
I've had good luck using this Greg , with a gasket to put tank half's together, IMG_0874.png
 

Rallyeguy

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I got this latest PM 10-10 last weekend.The recoil was seized on it so I took it apart & cleaned it up the best I could.It'll only pull out about a foot,which is not aceptable.I ended up putting another recoil on it "just to check for spark".The saw fiored,so I checked the fuel filter & it looked good.I added fuel to the tank & it was running in no time.I think I need to replace the fuel line because it seems that each time I fire up the saw it ends up with fuel in the air box.I did some carb adjustments & it runs great.It came with a 20 in.bar,but I ended up putting a 16 in.on it.
Fuel in the airbox is very common on these, and can be from where the line goes into the tank or from the tank gasket itself. Relatively easy fixes.... I typically use a dab of Seal All on the line where it goes through the tank to help make it a more permanent seal. This will come off if it needs to be removed later but is fuel safe and clear. Tank gaskets were originally cork but are also available in viton which stores better than cork. Both are viable options however.

For leaks at the fuel tank seal, double check the condition of the metal in the groove. I normally don't suggest any sealant there but if it is corroded, I'd use some. The other trick is with rubber they don't compress as much as the cork, so its important to tighten the tank down evenly first with the center screw, then the two corners of the air box. I've found the rubber holds the tank top up a little higher than the cork which typically compresses until the metal parts meet. I've had good luck with both versions I sell. For shelf queeens that stored dry, I'd use the rubber. For regular use, I'd use the cork, as the fuel staying in it helps keep it sealed.

Brian Genrich
www.oldsawshop.com
 
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Rallyeguy

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I have found that many will leak where the fuel line passes through the tank. I don't know if there were inconsistencies in the size of the hole in the tank, the molded grommets in the fuel line, or if some fuel line material just shrinks over time...

My go to solution has been to put a few wraps of Teflon thread tape around the grommet before I pull it into the hole in the tank. Some need 3-4 wraps to achieve a good snug fit.

I had one 6-10 model that does not have a full channel in the tank to contain the gasket, and neither the new cork or Viton gaskets would remain in place to positively seal the tank, so I ended up giving it the Red Kote treatment.

View attachment 468124

View attachment 468123

Mark
Hi Mark,

What other 10 series covers use this style? 2-10, 3-10, 4-10, 5-10, 6-10 stuff? or was it used willy nilly?
 

edju1958

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On my Pro 10-10, the gas tank leaks into the carb box. I pulled the top of the tank, removed the old cork gasket and installed a proline gasket. Unfortunately it still leaks. Any of you guys run into this and have a fix?
Are you sure it's the tank gasket & not the fuel line?I have a leak in my PM 10-10 & plan on replacing the fuel line first.
 

edju1958

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I had a problem with my most recent PM 10-10 where after I let it set overnight it wouldn't start unless I primed it in the plug hole.After that it'd run all day if I let it & if I shut it off it'd restart.Yesterday I put some Seafoam in the fuel & ran the saw for about 5-10 minutes.I went out this a.m.& it fired right uip on the 2nd pull.I'm thinking that there must've been either some dirt or varnish on the seat and/or needle.My youngest brother stopped by to pick up his Poulan 3400 & he saw it fire up.He said "wow,that's an old saw".I didn't have the heart to tell him that his saw was probably about the same age,if not older,Lol.
 

hacskaroly

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My youngest brother stopped by to pick up his Poulan 3400 & he saw it fire up.He said "wow,that's an old saw".I didn't have the heart to tell him that his saw was probably about the same age,if not older,Lol.
I had a customer that I was talking saws with and he ended up going home and coming back with his Mac 10-10. He was so excited to show it off and how it sounded, it was really neat to see and to hear it with the deep chugging while it idled...reminded me of a vintage hot rod. Two years later, I now have a Homelite Super XL and a Mac 10-10 (well two, one does not run due to grenaded piston ring) and love to hear them just put along...and they are fun to work on!!
 

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Fuel in the airbox is very common on these, and can be from where the line goes into the tank or from the tank gasket itself. Relatively easy fixes.... I typically use a dab of Seal All on the line where it goes through the tank to help make it a more permanent seal. This will come off if it needs to be removed later but is fuel safe and clear. Tank gaskets were originally cork but are also available in viton which stores better than cork. Both are viable options however.

For leaks at the fuel tank seal, double check the condition of the metal in the groove. I normally don't suggest any sealant there but if it is corroded, I'd use some. The other trick is with rubber they don't compress as much as the cork, so its important to tighten the tank down evenly first with the center screw, then the two corners of the air box. I've found the rubber holds the tank top up a little higher than the cork which typically compresses until the metal parts meet. I've had good luck with both versions I sell. For shelf queeens that stored dry, I'd use the rubber. For regular use, I'd use the cork, as the fuel staying in it helps keep it sealed.

Brian Genrich
www.oldsawshop.com
I second this process but check and make sure the bolt spacer is on the bolt inside the tank. It keeps the bolt from over tightening and cracking the tank or warping it. There has been on occasion needed to grind or cut a small amount off of bottom of the spacer to be able to tighten it more but the spacer must be perfectly square to the tank. That was used for some aftermarket gaskets or when filling the valley with something.
 

Rallyeguy

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Scott Kelsey

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Hi everyone. Can someone tell me what the numbers on the right side of this 797 block mean? Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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jacob j.

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Hi everyone. Can someone tell me what the numbers on the right side of this 797 block mean? Thanks in advance for any help.

Scott -

@heimannm may know more but I was told by a dealer years ago that they are production series numbers. A lot of my blocks have them.
 

heimannm

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66251 on the left is the block number for the 797. They don't always have the 797 model number stamped like this one.

On the right is normally a serial number but they are usually 5 or 6 digits. I do not know the story on the 4 digit number, maybe Nate (Big Mac) would know @Bigmac

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Mark
 

Scott Kelsey

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66251 on the left is the block number for the 797. They don't always have the 797 model number stamped like this one.

On the right is normally a serial number but they are usually 5 or 6 digits. I do not know the story on the 4 digit number, maybe Nate (Big Mac) would know @Bigmac

View attachment 468551

Mark
Thank you
 

nv656

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Touched these components up, tried to match the factory spatter type paint. We’ll see. Winter muffler cover turned out pretty spot on
 

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