MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[heimannm]

I see the compression release now, thought maybe that was a CP70L instead but they are less common. I got a nice one from Ike Holtz a while back. I got the bar from Fossil.



Mark

 

[Steve]

Mark, do you know where I can find a full wrap handle for a rigid mount 10 series? Right or left hand start is ok but perfer left hand start to put it on my 7-10.

 

[heimannm]

Like this?



As long as your 7-10 has the original clutch cover it is a bolt on replacement.



I had a bunch of these made up, $55 + shipping to cover my costs.

Mark

 

[Frank bierce]

Those looks great Mark!!

 

[heimannm]

A few years ago I picked up three PM800's and a PM8200 from a shop, all seemed to be basket cases at that time. I finally started investigating and found two had the inserts come loose from the flywheel and the third had a sheared flywheel key.

I started working on one looking for some parts and discovered the flywheel issue, decided to look further and the cylinder was in good shape, piston was junk. Installed a new piston and came up with this.



I think it should run O.K.

Mark

 

[hseII]

Added you to the conversation. Check your inbox

Please Add 1 more.

 

[ray benson]

Please Add 1 more.

You should have it.

 

[hseII]

You should have it.

Thank You.

 

[heimannm]

...wink, wink...

Mark

 

[Frank bierce]

Mounted up the bars I purchased off eBay....will have to get some loops made up for them shortly.

 

[heimannm]

I've been working on PM850 for a member here, he can announce himself if he wants...

Came in with good compression as you can see in post #1849 above. However, the compression release port was completely blocked so to avoid any risk of leaving some carbon chunks in the cylinder I went ahead and disassembled the whole saw.



While cleaning it I found some chips or notches in the top of the piston, one of which was pretty deep.



Didn't want to take any chances so we agreed on a new piston.



Starting to reassemble I ran into an issue that is common to the 10 Series saws with the bearing insert on the PTO side. With the seal in the insert, it is a challenge to get the seal over the nearly square step in the shaft. The marks on the crankshaft are merely visible, there is no damage you can detect.



Since I work on a lot of these saws, I thought I'd make a simple tool to help with the assembly of the seal to the shaft.



Wait for it...

Mark

 

[heimannm]

a drop or two of oil on the tapered shaft and



I had traded some message with Fossil about a similar situation on the Poulan saws, he suggest some wraps of electrical tape to help get the seal past the shoulder. If I only did this occasionally that would be a good solution, but since I work on so many I thought making a tool would be worthwhile.

Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'm usually successful using a piece of microfiche film in such instances. Would love to have the proper tools, though.

​

 

[mgr1]

I've been working on PM850 for a member here, he can announce himself if he wants...

Came in with good compression as you can see in post #1849 above. However, the compression release port was completely blocked so to avoid any risk of leaving some carbon chunks in the cylinder I went ahead and disassembled the whole saw.

View attachment 117190

While cleaning it I found some chips or notches in the top of the piston, one of which was pretty deep.

View attachment 117191

Didn't want to take any chances so we agreed on a new piston.

View attachment 117192

Starting to reassemble I ran into an issue that is common to the 10 Series saws with the bearing insert on the PTO side. With the seal in the insert, it is a challenge to get the seal over the nearly square step in the shaft. The marks on the crankshaft are merely visible, there is no damage you can detect.

View attachment 117194

Since I work on a lot of these saws, I thought I'd make a simple tool to help with the assembly of the seal to the shaft.

View attachment 117195

Wait for it...

Mark

Needle bearings in the piston? Is there also a needle bearing in the conrod small end?

 

[heimannm]

No bearing in the rod, the wrist pin presses through the rod and the interference holds it in place. No clips to mess with that way.

Mark

 

[mgr1]

No bearing in the rod, the wrist pin presses through the rod and the interference holds it in place. No clips to mess with that way.

Mark

Never seen it before. Thanks for response.

 

[Drptrch]

Any D30 IPL’s avail ? Thx


Erik

 

[Drptrch]

Any D30 IPL’s avail ? Thx


Erik

Received. Thanks Pogo


Erik

 

[heimannm]

Finished this one yesterday but forgot to hit "post". Starts and runs very nicely...now we need a few days of nice weather to dry up the recent snow so I can get to the local brush dump site and test it in some logs before sending it home.



I now have another of the PM800's torn down and cleaned up. I was surprised and pleased to see the cylinder is pristine and the piston has only some light scratches on the skirt on the intake side. Other than that you can still see the machine marks on the piston.

I will need to finish cleaning out the fuel tank and seal it with Red Kote before I put this one back together but I should end up with at least two extra PM800 when this exercise is done.

Mark

 

[hseII]

Finished this one yesterday but forgot to hit "post". Starts and runs very nicely...now we need a few days of nice weather to dry up the recent snow so I can get to the local brush dump site and test it in some logs before sending it home.

View attachment 117551

I now have another of the PM800's torn down and cleaned up. I was surprised and pleased to see the cylinder is pristine and the piston has only some light scratches on the skirt on the intake side. Other than that you can still see the machine marks on the piston.

I will need to finish cleaning out the fuel tank and seal it with Red Kote before I put this one back together but I should end up with at least two extra PM800 when this exercise is done.

Mark

Oh Goody!!