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NZsaws

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Got the SP80 together, easier than expected.
Few pulls and it fired.
Then the starter rope started jumping and for the life of me can't get to hold it self in. Had approx 3 turns of tension, Rewound countless times, experimented different tension and rope lengths
Is there a trick with these recoils or am I missing something on the assembly.
See images, wonder if the spring has lost memory and jumping the notch on pulley?
The compression is popping the decomp closed so this doesn't help.
Time for new spring?
 

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Squareground3691

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Got the SP80 together, easier than expected.
Few pulls and it fired.
Then the starter rope started jumping and for the life of me can't get to hold it self in. Had approx 3 turns of tension, Rewound countless times, experimented different tension and rope lengths
Is there a trick with these recoils or am I missing something on the assembly.
See images, wonder if the spring has lost memory and jumping the notch on pulley?
The compression is popping the decomp closed so this doesn't help.
Time for new spring?
Is ur spring sticking at all , moves freely under tension? and recoils back freely, ?
 

edju1958

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I'm trying to find out the correct size & pitch of the bar stud nuts used on the 600 series saws.I know they're an M8,but arer they a 1.25pitch?
 

Al Smith

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While on the subject on occasion on a high hours saw the threads nearest the bar will wear down those farther out usually are not affected .One remedy could be high flange nuts that will grip those unaffected threads .McMaster -Carr has them but they are kind of pricey in lots of 50 ,like $17 .
 

Al Smith

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That recoil popping out ,usually one wrap past full retraction will do it unless the spring is coming loose .Danged spring gets bent out of shape and forming a new end is a hit and miss type of thing .Sometimes a little heat helps and some times it just makes the new end break off .A new spring would most likley be the hot ticket although I have no idea where to find one .Perhaps e-bay ????Fact I've got a Mac 1000 (Partner p-100 ) jumpiing the spring I need to repair just have not addressed that problem yet .
 

edju1958

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Thanks Al! The problem is not that the studs are worn,but rather that whoever had the saw lost 2 out of 3 nuts used & substituted incorrect nuts.I have some serrated nuts here,but I'd rather have the non-serrated nuts & be correct.
 

heimannm

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NZ - I think what is happening is the notch in your starter pulley is a bit worn and the end of the spring comes out with tension applied. I have on occasion resorted to putting a spring pin in the starter pulley to anchor the end of the recoil spring. It can be challenging to line up the small loop on the end with the pin when putting the pulley on but it is a 100% positive solution.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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You don't want a serrated flange nut because over time the serrations will chew up the clutch cover .A standard M8 1.25 smooth flange nut on E-bay is $5.58 for ten free shipping .The PM 610 was the first saw Mac made where every
thing is metric .That very size and style of nut has been used by many brands .
 

edju1958

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You don't want a serrated flange nut because over time the serrations will chew up the clutch cover .A standard M8 1.25 smooth flange nut on E-bay is $5.58 for ten free shipping .The PM 610 was the first saw Mac made where every
thing is metric .That very size and style of nut has been used by many brands .
I bought the serrated nuts by mistake a few yrs.ago & rather than toss 'em I put the nut in a deep well socket & held it up against my bench grinder & removed the serrations,as per Mark's instructions.
 

edju1958

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I bought myself a PM800 today & think I got a fairly good deal on it.(I'll let y'all know later) It's supposed to have good compression,but no spark.Looking at the IPL,I see it has an electronic ignition module like the 600 series has.The part # is 95553,but I see the module has many other part # s.I'll be updating this post when I get the saw & post pics too.
 
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