edju1958
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Just curious Mark,what is the model of the "little red saw"?
MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread
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Jonsered CS2245, same saw as the Husqvarna 445 from what I can tell.
There have been quite a few odd colored models across the the benches lately.
Next week I will be focused on getting a few of my saws ready for the PNW GTG the following week.
Mark
There have been quite a few odd colored models across the the benches lately.
Next week I will be focused on getting a few of my saws ready for the PNW GTG the following week.
Mark
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I am liking this 55 so far. 
Woodslasher
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From some video, a Mac 35 ski
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I have the shroud from the 7-55 on the 99 now so that one is complete and in the truck already. I also put a 32" bar on my 1-86 and have it in the truck. I will try to get a couple of the kart powered saws ready tomorrow, and we'll see what else to add after that. I spent some time today getting this two man bow bar cleaned up. The chain required a bit of effort.
Mark
Mark
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Reproduction parts are now in stock and ready for shipment. All pre-orders have been shipped.
McCulloch 55659 Top Tank Air Cleaner Cover Grill
McCulloch Oem Replacement made with Dura-flex non breakable material. This chip guard is 3d printed plastic, and Mimicks the look of the original version but is significantly more durable. Product is more essentially crack proof, UV, and Chemical resistant than other 3d printed options. Fits...
www.oldsawshop.com
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Here's an interesting one....
The oiler on this 7-10 has been working very intermittently, manual oiler with a lot of included air and automatic oiler maybe 10 percent of the time no matter the adjustment. I broke it all down several times replacing gaskets, torquing down screws, swapping parts on and off. I tracked down a major oil leak to this hole in a new old stock oil cup. It appears to be a casting defect (?). It was almost invisible under the paint.
I opened it up a bit and daubed on some JB weld. We'll see if that solves it.
I am pretty fast at getting the tank off a 7-10 now.
The oiler on this 7-10 has been working very intermittently, manual oiler with a lot of included air and automatic oiler maybe 10 percent of the time no matter the adjustment. I broke it all down several times replacing gaskets, torquing down screws, swapping parts on and off. I tracked down a major oil leak to this hole in a new old stock oil cup. It appears to be a casting defect (?). It was almost invisible under the paint.
I opened it up a bit and daubed on some JB weld. We'll see if that solves it.
I am pretty fast at getting the tank off a 7-10 now.
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I had a 600 Series saw with a similar flaw. Rather than waiting JB to cure, I was able to drill it out, tap it, and insert a small set screw.
Mark
Mark
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That sounds like a proper fix, Mark.
The epoxy did work, it oils like a 394 now.
The 7-10 is in the woods rotation now so I will find out how well the patch lasts soon enough. If it fails I will try out Mark's method.
The epoxy did work, it oils like a 394 now.
The 7-10 is in the woods rotation now so I will find out how well the patch lasts soon enough. If it fails I will try out Mark's method.
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Next up will be the sp80. The only thing I am not sure of at this point is the fuel tank. It leaks near the wrap handle attachment point.
As far as I can tell it seems it is sealed with a liquid gasket product rather than a cork gasket like the 7-10.
Does anyone have experience successfully re-sealing one of these type tanks?
As far as I can tell it seems it is sealed with a liquid gasket product rather than a cork gasket like the 7-10.
Does anyone have experience successfully re-sealing one of these type tanks?
Maintenance Chief
Disrupting the peace with an old chainsaw
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I did mine with Red Cote about 3 years ago . It's lasted well , and mine leaked in the same place.
Thinning the mixture of sealant helped.
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I second the Red Kote treatment. Make sure the tank is clean before you start, and allow it to fully cure before adding fuel. The SP tanks are sealed and it it virtually impossible to take one apart without causing more damage. Cleaning and resealing is the best option.
I have purchased Red-Kote from O'Reilly's auto parts stores, last batch I bought I found through eBay. One quart will be enough to do several (8-10) chainsaw size fuel tanks.
Regarding curing, I give them a week a least, unless it is heating season and I can set them over the wood stove for a couple of days. In summer, a few days in the attic would probably suffice.
Mark
I have purchased Red-Kote from O'Reilly's auto parts stores, last batch I bought I found through eBay. One quart will be enough to do several (8-10) chainsaw size fuel tanks.
Regarding curing, I give them a week a least, unless it is heating season and I can set them over the wood stove for a couple of days. In summer, a few days in the attic would probably suffice.
Mark
edju1958
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Well fellas,one of my local saw shops called me last week to tell me he was cleaning out one of his sheds & found a couple of "off brand" saws that I might be interestedin.One is a Homelite SXL.It's in pretty good condition & has great compression,but no spark.That's a project for another day.
The other saw is a Timber Bear that came with a good 20 in.Oregon bar,but no chain.It was quite clean except for the chain brake.The fuel tank had old fuel in it that looked likje the gas had evaporated & left the oil behind.I dumped that out & rinsed the tank with straight gas.I put in a new fuel filter & fresh fuel & started pulling.I limit myserlf to 15 pulls,then I prime the carb.Of course the recoil had to screw up,so I swapped in another recoil & went through the pulling process again.I ended up priming it & the saw fired right up & just sat there idling like it had just come off the assembly line.I couldn't believe how well it idled & throttled up.The manual oiler works.I'll find out if the auto oiler works after I put a new chain on it.I'll get pics on here when the saw is complete.Oh yeah,the cost of each saw was $10.
The other saw is a Timber Bear that came with a good 20 in.Oregon bar,but no chain.It was quite clean except for the chain brake.The fuel tank had old fuel in it that looked likje the gas had evaporated & left the oil behind.I dumped that out & rinsed the tank with straight gas.I put in a new fuel filter & fresh fuel & started pulling.I limit myserlf to 15 pulls,then I prime the carb.Of course the recoil had to screw up,so I swapped in another recoil & went through the pulling process again.I ended up priming it & the saw fired right up & just sat there idling like it had just come off the assembly line.I couldn't believe how well it idled & throttled up.The manual oiler works.I'll find out if the auto oiler works after I put a new chain on it.I'll get pics on here when the saw is complete.Oh yeah,the cost of each saw was $10.
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Sometimes you're the windshield...
I'm usually the bug...
Good score Ed. Do you know if the TB is the 3.4 or 3.7? The thin ring 3.7 models in the 600 Series all seem to run the best.
Mark
I'm usually the bug...
Good score Ed. Do you know if the TB is the 3.4 or 3.7? The thin ring 3.7 models in the 600 Series all seem to run the best.
Mark
Squareground3691
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edju1958
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I thought all Timber Bear saws were the same?Now I'm confused,Lol. I had plans on getting a pic of it on here today,but things didn't quite work out as planned.I put the bar & chain on it & went to start it,but now it acts like it has no spark.Could be a badd plug,a bad switch,or a bad module.I guess I was the bug today & got splatted,Lol.
Dream
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Ed, i had a mint Timmie bear that i sold to my next-door neighbor.
He said it ran great for a tank of gas or two, then just wouldnt start back up after he got it hot and ran it dry.
I took it to check it out, and it had no spark.
Replaced the plug, and it ran fine.
The saw was given to me because it had no spark.
I replaced the plug and it started and ran fine.
Told the neighbor to buy a spare plug and try that before he called me back.
Ive heard of the 600 series being picky about plugs. That might be all of your problem.
10 series dont seem to care much about the state of a spark plug.
Ive run some cruddy and old plugs that i would have never thought would run in those, but every 610/650/timber bear ive had wanted a new or like-new plug to make reliable spark.
Dream
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See now im like Ed.
I wasnt aware they made a 3.7 Timmie bear.
Im sorry for being misinformed.
The 600 series saws arent my favorite, mostly for their awkwark feel and low power -to-weight ratio.
An early 10 series saw like a 6-10, 7-10, 10-10, and the Pm 55 variants were saws i'd never ran either.
Grew up on a 1010S, PM700 and the later 10 series saws.
Most with chain brakes and long clutch covers that added weight, but they still had percieved torque and power.
Once i got to run a 7-10A and an SP81 i fully understood torque and power to weight.
Same with a PM55. Lighter and faster.
SP125 is a different animal, but i understand the balance and feel-in-hand it has versus a Stihl 088/881 or 3120XP. Just a better feel overall.
All those years and technology still cant surpass what McCulloch did over 50 years ago.
They made a saw that was easy to run and had the power to do it for the biggest jobs and all day long.
