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edju1958

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It's been a while since I've posted on this forum.I was out of action for the month of Dec.due to another knuckle replacement.I'm into the saw game full swing again.I recently purchased quite a few 610s at what I thought to be a good price.One of them was a Monkey Wards 3.7.The recoil rope was wound around the pulley where the pulley engages the pawls,probably from having a loose rope.I pulled that apart & retensioned the pulley,but found that one of the ears on the recoil where the screw goes in was broken off.Fortunately I had another recoil that I just popperd into place.The ignition module area was loaded up with old sawdust & oil & that got cleaned out.The fuel line was totally disintegrated,so I swapped in a fuel tank with fuel line from a PM605 & put a new fuel filter in.Fueled it up & a few pulls later it was running like it had decades ago.Only a minor carb adjustment was needed.I still need to hunt up a couple of bar stud nuts,that's why there's no bar or chain on it yet.
 

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edju1958

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I had 2 610s that I tore into because the recoil rope was hanging out & found them to be the dirtiest saws that I've encountered thus far into my saw work.The 1st saw I didn't take any pics,however I took a pic of the 2nd saw.They were pretty much identical in their filthyness.The 1st saw is all put back together except for the carb needs to go back on.I had/have to dismantle both saws completely for a thorough cleaning.
 

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Dream

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Got some time to mess with my new-to-me SP81.
Pulled the recoil and clutch covers. Got all the goop scraped and wire brushed out, then put tje covers through the parts washer. Looks much better. It has lost a lot of paint, but most of my saws are that way.
Installed the new air filter and fired it up.
Went out and made a couple of cuts. It pulls fine, but has an air leak. Started racing after a cut or two. Revs up when I turn the flywheel side up. Tries to die when I turn clutch side up. Sounds lile a crank seal to me.
Any advice? I mostly have 10 series experience. This is my first SP that ive done much with.
0211241326.jpg0211241339a.jpg0211241339.jpg
 

Squareground3691

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Got some time to mess with my new-to-me SP81.
Pulled the recoil and clutch covers. Got all the goop scraped and wire brushed out, then put tje covers through the parts washer. Looks much better. It has lost a lot of paint, but most of my saws are that way.
Installed the new air filter and fired it up.
Went out and made a couple of cuts. It pulls fine, but has an air leak. Started racing after a cut or two. Revs up when I turn the flywheel side up. Tries to die when I turn clutch side up. Sounds lile a crank seal to me.
Any advice? I mostly have 10 series experience. This is my first SP that ive done much with.
View attachment 407285View attachment 407287View attachment 407288
Nice 👍
 

Dream

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Put the 28" bar with full comp full chisel on the SP81.
Put the 20" bar with FCFC chain on my PM700.
The 700 pulled tje 28" bar just fine, but now it REALLY pulls with the 20"!
Cant stall it, even pulling up hard on its dawgs.
0211241502_HDR.jpg0211241502a_HDR.jpg
 

Steve

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Got some time to mess with my new-to-me SP81.
Pulled the recoil and clutch covers. Got all the goop scraped and wire brushed out, then put tje covers through the parts washer. Looks much better. It has lost a lot of paint, but most of my saws are that way.
Installed the new air filter and fired it up.
Went out and made a couple of cuts. It pulls fine, but has an air leak. Started racing after a cut or two. Revs up when I turn the flywheel side up. Tries to die when I turn clutch side up. Sounds lile a crank seal to me.
Any advice? I mostly have 10 series experience. This is my first SP that ive done much with.
View attachment 407285View attachment 407287View attachment 407288


Sounds like crank seals to me too Brent. Once you dig into it you will notice it's a 10 series after all!
 

edju1958

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I got that really dirty 610 clened up today,put a new fuel filter in it,& noticed the carb mounting screws were loose.I tightened them up & checked the needle setting,they were way off.Apparently the PO was trtying to compensate for the loose screws by opening up the lo needle,the hi was only set at 1/2 turn out.I fueled it up & after a few pulls it was running like a champ.It ran so good that it wouldn't shut off.I guess I'll have to replace the switch.Pics to come.
 

JKNW

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Got the Super 33 running on its own instead of bottle feeding today. Got the chain back on shortly after this and got one last start before the rope broke. Chain has a couple real stiff spots, it's soaking now, should cut fine once its freed up and filed up.

 

fossil

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Got some time to mess with my new-to-me SP81.
Pulled the recoil and clutch covers. Got all the goop scraped and wire brushed out, then put tje covers through the parts washer. Looks much better. It has lost a lot of paint, but most of my saws are that way.
Installed the new air filter and fired it up.
Went out and made a couple of cuts. It pulls fine, but has an air leak. Started racing after a cut or two. Revs up when I turn the flywheel side up. Tries to die when I turn clutch side up. Sounds lile a crank seal to me.
Any advice? I mostly have 10 series experience. This is my first SP that ive done much with.
View attachment 407285View attachment 407287View attachment 407288

Always a good idea to change the crank seals.
If you don't have them, Mark H may have some or,

New replacements
FW side, MAC pn 61618 crosses to National 471551 or SKF CR5756, single lip 0.562 in Shaft, 1.379 in

PTO side Mac pn 110260 crosses to SKF CR6119 double lip or SKF CR6120 single lip. National 253747

Easy to change.
Clutch off on PTO side and FW and points box off on FW side.
 
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Dream

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Always a good idea to change the crank seals.
If you don't have them, Mark H may have some or,

New replacements
FW side, MAC pn 61618 crosses to National 471551 or SKF CR5756, single lip 0.562 in Shaft, 1.379 in

PTO side Mac pn 110260 crosses to SKF CR6119 double lip or SKF CR6120 single lip. National 253747

Easy to change.
Clutch off on PTO side and FW and points box off on FW side.
Thanks for that!
 

edju1958

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I put a new switch in the 610 today & now it works as it should.The old switch was covered in oil & dirt,so it may still be good.I just didn't feel like pulling the saw apart over & over again.

I then moved on to the next 610 which fired on a prime before I cleaned it.I put a different Zama carb in it & it won't pull fuel.Also,it lost spark.I know there was one parts saw in the lot,this may have been it as nothing was labeled.I checked 2 more 610s & they both fired on a prime.
 

heimannm

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JKNW - Your 1-42 appears to be missing the lower brace for the rear handle.

McCulloch 1-42 4.JPG

The same part was used on all of the large frame front tank models so you shouldn't have any trouble finding one.

If I remember correctly, some of the 1-42/43 models came that way from the factory, I guess they were trying to lower the cost a bit. Actually using the saw without the lower brace puts a lot of strain on the airbox and the screws holding the airbox to the cylinder.

Mark

Mark
 

edju1958

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I called Bob J.today to congratulate him on his birthday yesterday,84 yrs.young.We had a lengthy talk & he seemed to be doing well,although at one point he had me confused weith Woody Stromen in Wi.It was great to be able to talk to the old boy again.He even invited me to come visit him & Miss Joan.
 

Maintenance Chief

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I called Bob J.today to congratulate him on his birthday yesterday,84 yrs.young.We had a lengthy talk & he seemed to be doing well,although at one point he had me confused weith Woody Stromen in Wi.It was great to be able to talk to the old boy again.He even invited me to come visit him & Miss Joan.
He was probably happy to talk, did Bob ever have a short conversation? Lol
 

heimannm

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Last Saturday Jeff and I were trying to get 10 Series pulse pump oiler gaskets sorted out, I haven't quite determined where the ones with the flat bottom are used.

20240210_171755.jpg

62274 works with the older saws that utilize the aluminum body pumps with three mounting screws.

89462 was used with the single screw mount pulse pumps, some had the "clamp" on top to help press them down for a better seal. Those were later replaced with 92818, and eventually the spring clip to wedge the back of the pulse pump down tight.

There is another gasket listed in some IPL's (86188) but I don't have any identified as such, not sure what it looks like.

So far I have identified 3 or 4 different pulse pumps, 83134 is aluminum body and three screws, 83786 is aluminum body and one screw with a small dog point set screw in one of the back holes to help locate the pump, 89115 is a plastic body pump (one screw) with the dog point set screw, and 89115A is the plastic body pump (one screw) with no locating set screw.

Mark
 
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