MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Spike60]

 

[heimannm]

Spike - any chance you could scan a copy of those and send them to me? I'd like to print one and put it on the wall here.



Below the "Three Million" poster is a copy of Bob McCulloch's letter to his managers explaining the sale of the Los Angeles property and the move to Lake Havasu, including the introduction of the new lines of snowmobile and moped engines...

Mark

 

[Spike60]

 

[Spike60]

Sorry Mark. They got wrecked after I took the pics.

 

[heimannm]

List price today corrected for inflation would be $3,457.20

 

[Spike60]

 

[Spike60]

Would sending these pics to an email address work?

 

[Al Smith]

With regards to the cooling fins getting clogged that only happened to me once a long time ago .It was on a PM 610 and caused the coil to fail from heat .However on the 125's never but then again they don't get much run time . A hoot to run but on 16-18 inch stuff about like shooting rats with an elephant gun .

 

[heimannm]

Spike - I can download the photo from here and print a copy, won't be quite the same as a full size scan but it will work.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

List price today corrected for inflation would be $3,457.20

That said actually in todays time they are actually less expensive .

 

[heimannm]

I posted this over on AS but I am looking for any and all input.

6-10 has been on and off the bench for a few weeks, new piston, crankshaft seals, crankcase sealed (Dirko), all new gaskets throughout. Crankcase passes pressure and vacuum testing, slow leak through the pulse pump (automatic oiler)...I finally replaced the pump with one rebuilt with all new parts.

Back at the beginning...



New piston, seals, gaskets, the works...I won't go into detail over the fun we've had with the RH starter...



Saw will start, run, idle, but after making a cut acts very lean, no amount of adjustment will cure it. Even with the idle speed screw backed out fully it still races. I thought at first it was a badly worn throttle shaft on the original carburetor but I've had 4 different carburetors installed and always the same results.

I was pressure/vacuum testing stage by stage today and the insulator & gaskets (next to the cylinder) seemed fine. With the tank and spacer installed...not so good.



I was unsuccessful in scraping the surface flat, so I jerry-rigged a set up in the mill/drill and machined the boss flat.



FWIW, this saw has the aluminum body pulse pump that mounts with three screws. I made a rubber seal to use for pressure/vacuum testing.....just remember to take that seal out and put the proper gasket back in when reassembling the saw.....or get more experience with dis/assembly.

If this does not solve it, I really don't know what I might do next.

If anyone has any suggestions/recommendations/advice I welcome any and all input.

Mark

 

[legdelimber]

Any way to check the pieces of the carburetor body itself, for warpage cracks, loose threads not holding tight, burrs pulled up around holes?
Look for stains on any of the mating surfaces that show poor contact or fluid getting between things. Do the carb gaskets seem to be evenly compressed all around when looking at the dismantled bits?
You've likely already done more stuff than I ever knew, but sometimes we (me) just get aggravated and stuff can slip by.

 

[jacob j.]

I posted this over on AS but I am looking for any and all input.

6-10 has been on and off the bench for a few weeks, new piston, crankshaft seals, crankcase sealed (Dirko), all new gaskets throughout. Crankcase passes pressure and vacuum testing, slow leak through the pulse pump (automatic oiler)...I finally replaced the pump with one rebuilt with all new parts.

Back at the beginning...

View attachment 406856

New piston, seals, gaskets, the works...I won't go into detail over the fun we've had with the RH starter...

View attachment 406857

Saw will start, run, idle, but after making a cut acts very lean, no amount of adjustment will cure it. Even with the idle speed screw backed out fully it still races. I thought at first it was a badly worn throttle shaft on the original carburetor but I've had 4 different carburetors installed and always the same results.

I was pressure/vacuum testing stage by stage today and the insulator & gaskets (next to the cylinder) seemed fine. With the tank and spacer installed...not so good.

View attachment 406858

I was unsuccessful in scraping the surface flat, so I jerry-rigged a set up in the mill/drill and machined the boss flat.

View attachment 406859

FWIW, this saw has the aluminum body pulse pump that mounts with three screws. I made a rubber seal to use for pressure/vacuum testing.....just remember to take that seal out and put the proper gasket back in when reassembling the saw.....or get more experience with dis/assembly.

If this does not solve it, I really don't know what I might do next.

If anyone has any suggestions/recommendations/advice I welcome any and all input.

Mark

My limited experience with the -10 series has been that vacuum/pressure leaks usually occur in that area. Even though you've machined the mounting surface flat, I would try a skim coat of Dirko on the gasket(s) when installing the intake components.

 

[Bigmac]

Double check the duckbill, can always loosen the cap to test, have have had several saws that would draw air, but not enough, or a weak pump pulse port, gasket alignment, I have no 10 series experience though

 

[Al Smith]

I had problems with the 6-10 I have .I cobbled together a carb from two,I think Walbro's where the choke side had a much larger opening than the throttle butterfly .In theory I think that became in effect like a vee stack at higher RPM's .At any rate believe it or not that thing dead sticks at over 15,000 RPM's .Over the cant's it turns in faster times than an SP 81and often better than a Husky 272 .I can't explain as it was purely by accident on my part .I only fire it up every so often because if ran for extended periods I doubt it would last very long as a work saw at that speed .On the right hand start deal who ever came up with that brain fart should be tarred and feathered .

 

[heimannm]

I checked the fuel cap with my Mitey Vac and the vent operates as it should.

I was almost fully reassembled this morning and putting the last bit of torque on one of the carburetor mount screws and heard & felt a "POP".



So, the tank top had to come off one more time...as I was disassembling to fix the stripped threaded hole I noticed this:



In my haste to get it together yesterday afternoon I did not get the gasket between the insulator and the tank bottom correctly positioned.

I went ahead and put Heli-Coil inserts in both carb mount screw holes while I had it apart yet again...

I did as JJ suggested and used some Dirko on the gasket between the tank bottom and the spacer. I like to stick the gasket to the top of the spacer with Pliobond to keep it in place while installing the carburetor. The 6-10 uses the spring loaded swivel type adjusters so this is especially important.





To get more to the point...IT WORKS!!

As you can see on my outdoor workbench where I've been testing this saw, the oiler works.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

My very first YouTube post ever shown above, and I did all of the things I hate about YouTube videos except point the camera at myself and tell some unrelated story...

Mark

 

[legdelimber]

No music Yay. and you didn't do any of those slow zoom, vomit inducing, spirals.
Oh and it ain't fooking vertical video.
Dear mercy when people put that blurred crap on the sides I have to skip the video, cause that chit gives me a headache in about 30 seconds.
Tricky to not get a little sound distortion in a chainsaw video.

No complaints from me tonight Mr Heimannnm !!

 

[Bigmac]

I checked the fuel cap with my Mitey Vac and the vent operates as it should.

I was almost fully reassembled this morning and putting the last bit of torque on one of the carburetor mount screws and heard & felt a "POP".

View attachment 406965

So, the tank top had to come off one more time...as I was disassembling to fix the stripped threaded hole I noticed this:

View attachment 406967

In my haste to get it together yesterday afternoon I did not get the gasket between the insulator and the tank bottom correctly positioned.

I went ahead and put Heli-Coil inserts in both carb mount screw holes while I had it apart yet again...

I did as JJ suggested and used some Dirko on the gasket between the tank bottom and the spacer. I like to stick the gasket to the top of the spacer with Pliobond to keep it in place while installing the carburetor. The 6-10 uses the spring loaded swivel type adjusters so this is especially important.

View attachment 406969

View attachment 406968

To get more to the point...IT WORKS!!

As you can see on my outdoor workbench where I've been testing this saw, the oiler works.

Mark

Great Mark! The trouble ones are always the most rewarding when you figure them out!

 

[heimannm]

A couple more videos of the 6-10. Cold start and making a cut (oak test log) and warm restart after I changed the clutch.

Mark