High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

Al Smith

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More on the grease gun .You could also again using an old spark make an adaptor to install an air chuck which could do two things .First show if it's stuck above the ports .I so it would hold pressure .Secondly it could help to push the penetrating past the piston . The two 18 MM devices I used to unstick a 300 Ford 6 and the 14 MM to unstick a Partner p-100 .BTW if you try this I would suggest unbolting the cylinder thus lifting the cylinder off the piston in case it's stuck by the crankshaft
 

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mirage

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It looks like the first thing I need to do is get the bar assembly off.
 

mirage

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I will work on the adapters today.. Thanks
 

mirage

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I took of the whole chain bar . I was able to put a shocker on the crank nut and brake it free. Did not take much pressure to free it up. Just moved it back and forth. The cylinder from what I can see looks good. The rings are nice and shiny .Took the carb cover off and the diaphragm is shot. Is there a carb kit still available for the thing? Going to try and find the points next.
 

slackinoff

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Summer is over and I am back playing with saws. I got a great deal on a PM60 this spring back on page 377. It got cleaned and set aside for the fall to work on. Yesterday I reworked the starter, new rope, fixed a couple of issues. I appreciate how easy mac made it to rewind the starter spring on these saws. Now that little pin that holds the rope? Yea that was tough but I got it dug out.

With some premix down the carb she fired immediately which is great! I need to split the tank and clean it out, very nasty. I am going to try the buna N grommet setup to run new fuel line. @Woodslasher sent me links to them.

The oil button is broken off, would I be able to use one from a 850 (part # 63044) ? I found a good deal on one. Oil buttons seem hard to find for PM60, not sure what interchanges with them, possibly a lot?

Thank you for all the help on these, this is a great thread. Glad it's cool enough that I want to be wrenching and cutting again.
 

Steve

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Summer is over and I am back playing with saws. I got a great deal on a PM60 this spring back on page 377. It got cleaned and set aside for the fall to work on. Yesterday I reworked the starter, new rope, fixed a couple of issues. I appreciate how easy mac made it to rewind the starter spring on these saws. Now that little pin that holds the rope? Yea that was tough but I got it dug out.

With some premix down the carb she fired immediately which is great! I need to split the tank and clean it out, very nasty. I am going to try the buna N grommet setup to run new fuel line. @Woodslasher sent me links to them.

The oil button is broken off, would I be able to use one from a 850 (part # 63044) ? I found a good deal on one. Oil buttons seem hard to find for PM60, not sure what interchanges with them, possibly a lot?

Thank you for all the help on these, this is a great thread. Glad it's cool enough that I want to be wrenching and cutting again.


Yes, all 10 series oil buttons are the same. Some are green, most are black. But all will work. The choke buttons will all work across the chassis too. Some have a wire loop to hold the choke rod and some have a plastic loop cast into it. I have only seen blue and black choke buttons. With the blue being very hard to find because it was only used on the 800 and maybe the 805??


Oh, and the pm60 is my favorite of all the 10 series. Just has a real snappy throttle response and great speed. They really like a 20" bar.
 

slackinoff

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@Steve - Awesome thanks! I will grab that button then. I made a list of fav saws you guys mentioned a while back and happened to find this one for $65 bucks, around $100 with taxes and shipping. Seemed like a great deal so I bought it.
 

67L36Driver

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10-10: Is this the idle speed screw?

40c9e4df6510e2e72de58cb4c1a7bd0f.jpg


Acts on the throttle blade?

I don’t think I’ve delt with one like this before.
 

Maintenance Chief

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@Steve - Awesome thanks! I will grab that button then. I made a list of fav saws you guys mentioned a while back and happened to find this one for $65 bucks, around $100 with taxes and shipping. Seemed like a great deal so I bought it.
 

slackinoff

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Can’t wait to get it running @Maintenance Chief , I looked in tank again because I remember it being pretty crusty. It still is, enough so that I’m definitely going to have to blast it. Thankfully I already have enough compressor to do that, just need to get a cheap cabinet setup.
 

slackinoff

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This is weird. So I bought my first house last August. Just now I was going through attic since I noticed the door was looking a little suspect and look what I found up there. The darn the works too. Too bad it wasn’t a saw, but at the same time….I could use a floor steam cleaner here.

724A30E5-F635-4584-872E-895CEB03828B.jpeg
 

heimannm

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mirage - I have some diaphragms on hand and hope to get some of the metal discs in process soon. If you'd like to have one without the metal disc you can separate yours from the old diaphragm and attach it to the new one with LocTite 380. I am planning to reuse the old ones without rivets or the backup disc.

Mark
 

mirage

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mirage - I have some diaphragms on hand and hope to get some of the metal discs in process soon. If you'd like to have one without the metal disc you can separate yours from the old diaphragm and attach it to the new one with LocTite 380. I am planning to reuse the old ones without rivets or the backup disc.

Mark
Yes sir I sure would. I am in no big hurry. I got my old lid and diaphragm in the ultrasonic cleaner right now. Do you know what I have to do to get to the ignition.. Just don't like jumping in and tearing things apart.
 

heimannm

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The coil is outside the flywheel and points are under the flywheel.

I have attached a copy of the IPL for the 5-49, 7-55, and 1225. Make sure you look at the captions on the bottom of each page as the 7-55 is quite different from the 5-49 and 1225.

Mark Heimann
 

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slackinoff

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This is a copy of a post from Another Site, just thought it might be helpful here as well.

There were two different bearing and seal options used on the flywheel side of the 10 Series saws. Most have the hard to find 63429 bearing on the flywheel side with the 61618 seal that presses into the wider outer race of the bearing. Others use the same bearing and seal combination as the 600 Series saws with the 67905 bearing and 67906 seal, the bearing is narrower and the seal matches the O.D. of the bearing and presses in side by side. The two are completely interchangeable as a combination. Most 10-10 models use the 67905/67906 combination as well as other random saws along the way.

The PTO side all use the same bearing and seal, 104357 needle bearing and 110260 seal. The 60 cc and larger saws have a sleeve or insert that the bearing and seal press in to and are positioned in the crankcase with either a dowel pin (later models) or a snap ring (earlier models). On the 54 and 57 cc models the bearing and seal press directly into the bore of the crankcase.

View attachment 300886

Mark

I have been looking at bearings and seals for my PM60 to have the info written down if needed in the future. Thanks for the info Mark.

The picture for the FW bearing 63429 and 61618 seal combination shows a picture of an skf 6373 instead of 61618 seal. This skf 6373 will work right?

I haven't read much about bearings going bad in these, is that the case? Which would be good because they are pretty expensive, especially the FW side.
 

Bryan Newton

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Would these saws be worth $200 for both they are suppose to run
 

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slackinoff

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@Bryan Newton - Looks like a good deal to me. Mac’s have gone up since I was shopping this past spring
 
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