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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

edju1958

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Just as an FYI, you can go back and edit a post. Just go back push the edit button on your post, and make the edit. You can go to “more options” and make more advance edits, like adding a pic or attaching a pic to a post that was instead of in the box below the post.
They only give ya about 5-10 min.to edit your post,which I think is ridiculous.
 

edju1958

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I pulled one of my 610s out of the back shed today to see if I could get it running.I rebuilt the carb on it about 3 yrs.ago & put a new fuel line & filter in it & it wouldn't pull fuel.It has spark & great compression & will fire on a prime.I checked the impulse hole to make sure it was clear.I put some oil on the impulse hole & pulled it over & nothing happened.I pulled the throttle handle off & checked everything out,all the gaskets were there.I pulled the carb apart & I might've had the cover gasket on the pump side reversed.I checked out the metering side & all was good there.I did a pressure check & it held at 5 psi.I'll put the carb back on tomorrow & see what happens.I've got 4 more of these big devils to play with & get running again + my original Timber Bear.The Timber bear was my first Mac that I bought back in 1995.It needs crank seals.My local saw shop couldn't figure it out back about 4 yrs.ago.When I asked them to put new crank seals in for me they wanted nothing to do with it.They said they didn't mess with crank seals.Needless to say I don't do business with them any more..
 

Maintenance Chief

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I pulled one of my 610s out of the back shed today to see if I could get it running.I rebuilt the carb on it about 3 yrs.ago & put a new fuel line & filter in it & it wouldn't pull fuel.It has spark & great compression & will fire on a prime.I checked the impulse hole to make sure it was clear.I put some oil on the impulse hole & pulled it over & nothing happened.I pulled the throttle handle off & checked everything out,all the gaskets were there.I pulled the carb apart & I might've had the cover gasket on the pump side reversed.I checked out the metering side & all was good there.I did a pressure check & it held at 5 psi.I'll put the carb back on tomorrow & see what happens.I've got 4 more of these big devils to play with & get running again + my original Timber Bear.The Timber bear was my first Mac that I bought back in 1995.It needs crank seals.My local saw shop couldn't figure it out back about 4 yrs.ago.When I asked them to put new crank seals in for me they wanted nothing to do with it.They said they didn't mess with crank seals.Needless to say I don't do business with them any more..
It should spit the oil out of the impulse hole.
 

Al Smith

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I have 3 Mac 610's but so far have not done any seal changes .I did however look up the numbers .The large seal is Mac number 67906 but I could not find the cross but via the net it looks like there are plenty of sources .Some are rather pricey .The small seal 110260 crosses to CR 6120 .
This model with a lot of plastic really is pretty tough although about as heavy as a 100 CC saw . Mine do not get much run time because of that but power wise they have about the same as most 60 cc saws .I'll just say when I wore a younger mans clothes and sold firewood I cut a lot of it with one of these saws .
 

edju1958

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I have 3 Mac 610's but so far have not done any seal changes .I did however look up the numbers .The large seal is Mac number 67906 but I could not find the cross but via the net it looks like there are plenty of sources .Some are rather pricey .The small seal 110260 crosses to CR 6120 .
This model with a lot of plastic really is pretty tough although about as heavy as a 100 CC saw . Mine do not get much run time because of that but power wise they have about the same as most 60 cc saws .I'll just say when I wore a younger mans clothes and sold firewood I cut a lot of it with one of these saws .
Al,as far as I know there is no cross reference on the 67906 seal.The 110260 should cross to SKF6119.
 

edju1958

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It should spit the oil out of the impulse hole.
That's what I thought Ira.What is causing it to not at least show bubbles?I put a stiff wire down the impulse hole that's the same size diameter of the hole.How far down should it go?I don't want to cause any damage to the piston or any other components.I don't know that much about the 610 even though I worked on them quite a bit about 4 yrs.ago.(as far as the impulse goes)
 

edju1958

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It does, 6120 is the double lip version.
I was talking about the FW side seal not having a cross reference.I might've gotten the 2 seals mixed up.Nope,I just looked at my purchase history on Feebay.I bought 5 67096 seals (FW side) & there is no replacement seal for them.The 110260 crosses to SKF 6119 or 6120..
 

edju1958

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I think I might've found the problem with my 610.The groove that's in the block in the 1st pic had some crud/crap in it which was blocking the impulse from the engine.The other problem is with the gasket that goes over that block.If you look at the 2nd pic it looks like the part that covers the impuls groove is concave,but it's really convex,which IMO is also blocking off the impulse from the engine.I think a new gasket wouldn't hurt anything.

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It looks to me like someone used the wrong gasket.I looked on Feebay & found a 92038 gasket (3rd pic).It looks like someone used a 91933 gasket in it's place.
 

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Al Smith

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By using the seal catalog published by Bearings Inc often you can match the seals if you know the exact size even though they can't be matched with OEM part numbers .It took me a while to cross the seals for the two Partner p-100's I did and it was only after I had the McCulloch IPL for the 1000 .In doing so I found several some of which were rated for higher speeds which I used . I'd imagine with a lot of research this larger seal used on the 610 could be substituted in it's place .However having found several sources I wonder if it's worth the extra effort . You can darned near go blind looking at ten thousand little numbers for hours on end .
 

edju1958

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By using the seal catalog published by Bearings Inc often you can match the seals if you know the exact size even though they can't be matched with OEM part numbers .It took me a while to cross the seals for the two Partner p-100's I did and it was only after I had the McCulloch IPL for the 1000 .In doing so I found several some of which were rated for higher speeds which I used . I'd imagine with a lot of research this larger seal used on the 610 could be substituted in it's place .However having found several sources I wonder if it's worth the extra effort . You can darned near go blind looking at ten thousand little numbers for hours on end .
I hear ya Al.I know exactly where you're coming from.A lot of folks don't know this,but I'm legally blind,have been for about 30 yrs.now.I get around OK,just haven't been able to drive all those yrs.When it come's to fine print I have my buddy Mr.Magnifying Glass.I had a magnifier put on my computer,but it hasn't worked in about 1 1/2 yrs.now.
 

Al Smith

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As luck would have it my long range vision is still 20/20 but my short range is bad .Worse if not in natural sunlight .I could knock the hair off a flies behind at 100 yards but if it were on my nose I could not tell it from an eagle .I might add that's typical of a retired electrician .We worked for years in the dark so some could see when we turned on the lights finally .Besides always having a pocket knife I also have a pocket high visibility flash light with me usually .
 

Al Smith

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Here ya go 6119 lip code R style HM4 --6120 R lip code style HM 51 both are bore size .875 6119 is .094 thick and 6120 is .188 or just about double the previous . Of interest perhaps but in this line up between the two numbers are four other seals with different lip codes and styles which might work I did not look up those specs though .Just to show that catalog, it's huge and covers at least 6 manufactures of seals but certainly not every one in the world .DSCN1084[1].JPG
 
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heimannm

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The SKF part numbers are counterintuitive in this instance.

Mark
 

Al Smith

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Try as I might I've not been able to find a picture of the styles given .The lip code is easy to find and on these seals it's both R which is nitrile very common usage on seals .
I could tell an old story about using the incorrect lip material with exotics like inorganic machine coolants which cost Ford Motor company a bloody fortune .I was the one who figured out the problem and I was just an electrician certainly never a mechanical engineer .It was simple enough just using the very same book I had in the picture of which I have three of but with the internet all the info is out there ,You just have to find it .
 
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