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MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

edju1958

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I'll tell you what will work on those clutches .Either the spring tool used on shoe type brakes or the tool used to finish brick and block mortar joints .
I've always just used a screwdriver when doing brakes,so that was my brake tool,& the tuck 'n point tool is too big,I have one.
 

ajschainsaws

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I'll second that. 106 drivers should be the ticket. Stihl 32" bars in 3/8 pitch usually take 105 drivers. I stock oregon 72jgx chain which is full skip full chisel. Do you want a loop?

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Thanks I will have some loops I will PM later
As I said I can’t get hold of 050 full skip over here
 

Al Smith

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I've always just used a screwdriver when doing brakes,so that was my brake tool,& the tuck 'n point tool is too big,I have one.
Just for general info a tuck pointer is just a skinny trowel ,a jointer is what's used to finish the joints .Those come in several sizes from about 3/8" to 7/8" .That said I've done more repairs on Stihl clutches than I have on McCullochs probably due in part the diff between an inboard or outboard design .Plus the fact most people pay little attention to the clutch until it breaks a shoe or tosses a spring .The bearing or bushing wears out and causes the drum to run wibbly wobbly shaking like a dog chitting razor blades .Every so often that can break the stub end of the crankshaft off too .
 

edju1958

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Not to get off track here,but I had a Homelite SXL that had the threads buggered up so badly that it couldn't hold a nut on the end of the crank for nothing.The saw ran great,but that small problem of not being able to hold a nut on led me to shelve the saw.About a yr.later I went looking for the saw & found that someone had stolen it along with a Mac 2-10 that had no carb.The joke was on them as they got 2 useless,non-running saws.
 

edju1958

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Just for general info a tuck pointer is just a skinny trowel ,a jointer is what's used to finish the joints .Those come in several sizes from about 3/8" to 7/8" .That said I've done more repairs on Stihl clutches than I have on McCullochs probably due in part the diff between an inboard or outboard design .Plus the fact most people pay little attention to the clutch until it breaks a shoe or tosses a spring .The bearing or bushing wears out and causes the drum to run wibbly wobbly shaking like a dog chitting razor blades .Every so often that can break the stub end of the crankshaft off too .
My dad did concrete & block work for a number of yrs.back in the '50's & '60's& the only tool he ever used was a trowel for finishing the seams or joints on bricks or concrete blocks.I remember watching him as a teenager & then trying my hand at it,there was just no comparison.When you put a trowel in his hand he was like a skilled surgeon.
 

Steve

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Ok so there was some talk on how to tell at a quick glimpse if a rigid mount 10 series is 54 or 70cc. It starts with what kind of muffler the saw is equiped with. If it has the flat pancake muffler it can only be 54cc as the flat muffler will only fit these cylinders due to short cylinder fins required to fit under the shroud. The 70cc saws only came with a ducted muffler.


PXL_20220110_004450062.jpg PXL_20220110_004609355.jpg PXL_20220110_004620737.jpg



If it has a ducted muffler it could be either but the shroud is the giveaway. With the duct being very tall and the 54cc cylinder fins being very short McCulloch had to pull the shroud in quite a bit on the bottom to keep the cooling air going through the fins. You will notice the shroud has a distinct channel for the muffler duct on the 54cc cylinder.


PXL_20220110_004538241.jpg


The 54cc equiped with the pancake muffler and the 70cc cylinders use the same cylinder shroud. The fins on a 70cc saw extend all the way down to the bottom of the muffler duct for better cooling of the larger engine.
 
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Steve

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Here is a ducted muffler on a 54cc cylinder. You can see how tall the duct is above the cooling fins. 70cc cylinders have fins that come all the way down flush with the bottom of the duct. With the cylinder shroud in place you can see the way it hugs the fins and the duct to keep all the cooling air where it belongs.


PXL_20220110_005436879.jpg PXL_20220110_005544109.jpg PXL_20220110_005558117.jpg PXL_20220110_005603707.jpg


So that is how I can tell if it is just an everyday 54cc block or a 70cc block with just a few pics of the saw. This only works for the older -10 series saws. Once you get into the pro mac series like the pm55, pm60, pm700, and 10-10s it gets a bit harder as they all use the same cylinder shrouds. I guess with being chrome bore they transfered heat better and it was not a big enough deal to make two shrouds? But, they all mostly had a lot of different exterior differences to tell the different models apart.

the 54 and 57cc saws are the only ones that can use the pancake muffler so if it has one it is definitely not 62 or 70cc.
 

Hwrdbnz

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Has anyone ever figured out how to put a chain brake handle back on a mcculloch 600 series chainsaw without tearing up the paint on the cover?
 

Al Smith

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Those curved bottom mufflers as far as I'm concerned are the best. To get one on a 70 cc's you have to carve little bit off the back bottom fins closest to the muffler .It makes a big difference in how they breathe .Been there and done that .
 
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