MCCULLOCH The official McCulloch thread

[Bigmac]

got the cp up and running! Tried a standard and 5° advance flywheel, it liked the 5° better

 

[Al Smith]

Usually the clutch isn't that hard but that big flywheel can be .It could need some heat in addition to a puller .

 

[edju1958]

Now after seeing that last post,I feel kinda foolish typing this post.I decided to tear into a PM310 today.I guess I'm a glutton for punishment.I have a PM310 that had a leaky fuel tank & in order to get the fuel tank out I needed to pull the carb & the air box assembly.Of course this was when the engineers at Mac must've been doing drugs & had a bad acid trip when they designed the 300 series saws.These saws were out now for almost 40 yrs.& like everything else over time & exposure to heat things get brittle.The throttle cable sheath had to crack.I looked on Feebay & the seller there must be doing the same drugs because he wants $60 for a throttle cable.I saw them on chainsawr when they had them for $12.95.I'll call Bob J.tomorrow a.m.& see if he has any.The good news is (if there is any good news) I did manage to get the old fuel tank out & the new tank in.Now I have to finish tearing apart the handle in order to get the throttle cable out.I'd rather do inventory,or crack walnuts,Lol.Working on a MiniMac is a walk in the park compared to working on a 300 series saw.

 

[heimannm]

Yes, the 300 Series saws are a distinct challenge and I have two or three backed up waiting for attention right now...

I do have a few throttle cables for the 330/340 models that are longer and have to be cut down to work on the 310/320 type saws. Seems like shipping is a killer for one item like that, if you can wait another three months I'll send one with the saws...

Mark

 

[edju1958]

Yes, the 300 Series saws are a distinct challenge and I have two or three backed up waiting for attention right now...

I do have a few throttle cables for the 330/340 models that are longer and have to be cut down to work on the 310/320 type saws. Seems like shipping is a killer for one item like that, if you can wait another three months I'll send one with the saws...

Mark

Another 3 months will bring it to mid-March.Hopefully I'll be out cutting by then,depending on the weather.I do have an Eager Beaver 2.1 & a Wildcat which are the same saw as the 310 that are ready to go.I might even have the 310 I'm working on ready to go by then too.Make sure you save at least one of those cables for one of the 310 saws I sent you as one of the cable sheaths is broken.

 

[edju1958]

Today I won a pair of PM6s on Feebay for $49.One is a good saw that runs on a prime,the other one is a parts saw.This is to replace the one that was stolen.Prices have gone up substantially on Feebay over the past couple yrs.I paid $25 for the saw I still have & $37 for the stolen saw.I didn't think $49 was too bad for getting 2 saws.

 

[heimannm]

Ed - I have been practicing on a Silver Eagle version of the 300 Series saws. I now have 12+ hours of recent experience on that particular saw...I am well versed on the 300's and will get to yours next before I forget all the little tricks I've relearned recently.

I haven't even opened your box yet, should be interesting.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

This is basically a regurgitation of a post I made on A S...I have to break it up a bit here due to a limited number a photos in each post.

"On another note, Bob Johnson called this afternoon to talk about alternatives for the NLA 85898 lower mount used on many of the SP and PM model saws. The illustration below is from IPL #215724-R1 and is the only one I have seen that references the alternative 92704/92703 (Items 31 and 30 in the circle) to 85898 (Item 31 in the main illustration). (EDIT - 213799-R1 has the same illustration and parts list.) To add to the confusion the hub (Item 30) is AKA 94038 in the 300 Series saws where the same mount is used on both ends of the top handle. There are too many problems/inconsistencies with this illustration to try and describe them all, but I'll note a few as we carry on this discussion.



To compound the confusion, most of the IPLs use the illustration in the circle but use the 85898 part number for the mount and 84661 for the grommet which is correctly shown as Item 30 in the main illustration above. If you were not familiar with the saws and the parts I think looking through the IPL's while looking at your saw with broken/damaged/missing parts could cause you to pull your hair out.

This is what 85898 is supposed to look like.



And this is how you often find them.



On a positive note, since the rubber in the center of that mount is intact, you could just assemble the parts in the saw and it would function as intended. On many that I have taken apart the rubber inside is badly deteriorated and the mount is basically worthless as it is.

This is the mount 92704 and hub 94038 (AKA 92703). This one does not have the steel ring around the outside.



Assembled.



To be continued...

 

[heimannm]

85898 with the washer and grommet 84661 shown assembled in the correct sequence. Note that this set up uses a normal 1/4-20 screw (they call it 2" but I find 1-3/4" works better) but the illustration calls for a shoulder screw (93096) which is actually required with 92704/92703.





I don't have any of the shoulder screws 93096 on hand but I surmised that the shoulder must be 5/16" diameter and 1" long with standard 1/4-20 threads beyond. I made my own with a 1" long spacer over a 1/4-20 screw. According to the IPL's & part lists, this is how the two different parts would appear in the saws.



I like the larger washer with the grommet as a "range limiter" if the mount fails so I made a longer spacer and added a couple of grommets to mimic the original 85898 set up.





For anyone with fewer than 300 posts, I will charge $5.00 for every subsequent answer...

Mark

 

[Bigmac]

85898 with the washer and grommet 84661 shown assembled in the correct sequence. Note that this set up uses a normal 1/4-20 screw (they call it 2" but I find 1-3/4" works better) but the illustration calls for a shoulder screw (93096) which is actually required with 92704/92703.

View attachment 320363

View attachment 320364

I don't have any of the shoulder screws 93096 on hand but I surmised that the shoulder must be 5/16" diameter and 1" long with standard 1/4-20 threads beyond. I made my own with a 1" long spacer over a 1/4-20 screw. According to the IPL's & part lists, this is how the two different parts would appear in the saws.

View attachment 320367

I like the larger washer with the grommet as a "range limiter" if the mount fails so I made a longer spacer and added a couple of grommets to mimic the original 85898 set up.

View attachment 320369

View attachment 320370

For anyone with fewer than 300 posts, I will charge $5.00 for every subsequent answer...

Mark

Great job Mark! I need these! I need 4! Lol

 

[heimannm]

Buy two junk 300 Series saws and you'll be 80% of the way there.



Mark

 

[Steve]

For anyone with fewer than 300 posts, I will charge $5.00 for every subsequent answer.

Mark

That's funny right there! Does that include the 3% goods and services fee?



Chit, I owe Mark five bucks...

 

[Al Smith]

There are too many problems/inconsistencies with this illustration to try and describe them all, but I'll note a few as we carry on this discussion.

That right there hit the nail right square on the head .One would think all of a certain model would be carbon copies but that doesn't always apply when reference to McCulloch .

 

[Maintenance Chief]

85898 with the washer and grommet 84661 shown assembled in the correct sequence. Note that this set up uses a normal 1/4-20 screw (they call it 2" but I find 1-3/4" works better) but the illustration calls for a shoulder screw (93096) which is actually required with 92704/92703.

View attachment 320363

View attachment 320364

I don't have any of the shoulder screws 93096 on hand but I surmised that the shoulder must be 5/16" diameter and 1" long with standard 1/4-20 threads beyond. I made my own with a 1" long spacer over a 1/4-20 screw. According to the IPL's & part lists, this is how the two different parts would appear in the saws.

View attachment 320367

I like the larger washer with the grommet as a "range limiter" if the mount fails so I made a longer spacer and added a couple of grommets to mimic the original 85898 set up.

View attachment 320369

View attachment 320370

For anyone with fewer than 300 posts, I will charge $5.00 for every subsequent answer...

Mark

I didnt measure any of mine Mark, because they were good. The automobile industry has really exploded with stuff like this in the past decade so might be something that you can work with in the page I'm going to include, which does have measurements.
https://www.suspension.com/universal-bushings.asp

 

[edju1958]

I did a couple carb rebuilds yesterday.One was an SDC37 for an upcoming project.Unfortunately I used a not-so-good kit & it won't hold pressure.I've had good luck with the Raisman kits before,but I didn't like this one from the start.It looked as if it was used previously,but the package was sealed.I'll try another good kit & see what happens.
The other carb was from the PM310 I've been toying with.The well for the inlet screen was completely filled to the top with silt,I'm surprised the saw ran at all when I first got it.I don't like Zama carbs for a couple reasons - they're so small to work on,& they're so damned small to work on.I'm surprised it didn't go flying up against the wall,but I got it together without losing tiny parts.I couldn't pressure test it because I can't find the little adaptors to put on the MightyVac.Anyone know where I can find replacements?

 

[Scott Kelsey]

Does anyone know of a replacement duckbill valve that will work on the SP125?

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Ira, if our supply of 92704 gets used up it should be possible to find a substitute as you have pointed out.

Bob called again today, we spent about an hour and a half trying to decipher what McCulloch's intentions were with the mount, hub, and shoulder bolt. In the end we decided to pursue the alternative I show in my last photo above. Bob and I should both have some ready within a couple of weeks.

After that I did get started on Ed's assortment of PM310 parts. Between visitors and phone calls today all I really managed to do was get things taken apart and cleaned up. One of the short blocks had 130+ compression so I will start the build with that one.

Contents of the box. I wonder what I should do with the Mini Mac handle...?



Taken apart & through the parts washer tank.



Goodies from the bag.



Short block on the right will be the heart of this one.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

If you need the duckbill for the fuel cap, send a PM.

Mark

 

[Al Smith]

Somebody on some forum mentioned a duck bill that Poulan used ,like a 50 cent thing .I need one to replace a check on a Lauson carb that used checks instead of the normal flappers on most carbs .You have to watch that compressed air because it can blow things into orbit never to be found again .Guilty as charged .

 

[Bigmac]

Got some cuts in with the cp and 101aa