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Al Smith

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MFG supply in Wisconsin shows forked levers fairly cheap like a buck or so .I'm not certain which would fit without looking up the Walbro part numbers .It would seem odd to me to only use one special bastard size for one itty bitty little carb used on one itty bitty saw .MFG supply's web site is relatively easy to navigate .look it up .
 

PogoInTheWoods

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It would seem odd to me to only use one special bastard size for one itty bitty little carb used on one itty bitty saw

Well they did. Don't know if you'd ever find just the metering lever even with the Walbro part number. Maybe there's a McCulloch repair kit part number somewhere for a complete kit?

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...db463a5a8f135b2688256e1900115be3?OpenDocument

Be easier (and probably cheaper) to just find another whole Mini-Mac for the purpose. It would also probably have a perfectly good condenser that'll work on lots of other saws.
 
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Dream

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I have a few mini macs. Maybe They have Walbro carbs. I'll have to see if they are the same.
The Walbro kit that I put in my PM6 is one that ive had for 20+ years. It had the lever and no pin.
 

Al Smith

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MFG lists three numbers all forked 59 cents to 89 cents a pop .The shipping used to be 5 bucks but that doesn't mean they will fit . Maybe Scott or who ever has chainsawr now has a complete unit laying around he's liable never to sell .I'll go see .
 

Al Smith

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They have a lever for $3.95 but again is it the correct one ? Those carbs must be made of gold ,just like flea bay fetch more than the saw is worth IMO .
 

67L36Driver

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Snatched a metering lever out of another MDC kit.

It moves freely but the lineup/angles suck.
329ba2752960112f8ba40560a7d6e15c.jpg


It’s worse with the ‘door knob’ needle supplied in the kit.

Shorten the needle with a cut off disc in my Dremel, I will. [emoji848]
 
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Dream

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Will putting the fork of the lever through the notch in the needle help? Seems like that lever geometry was made for that setup.
 

Al Smith

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You have to fork the "door knob " with that type lever . You might have to bend it to get the proper alignment with the diaphragm .Walbro as well as most if not all carb makers have web sites showing set up adjustments ,trouble shooting etc . With few exceptions most diaphragm carbs all work about the same .
 

PogoInTheWoods

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How would an inlet needle even function without being attached to the metering diaphragm lever? It needs the diaphragm movement up and down from the change of air pressure to allow and regulate fuel into the metering chamber. Can't see how a lever just sitting on an inlet needle being forced closed by a spring would do anything except keep it from opening at all.
 

Dream

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I kinda agree with that too.
Ive never seen a metering lever that didnt engage the needle somehow. Even the Marvel Shebler on my Allis model C has a wire keeper that goes over the float tang.
Something has to pull the needle open.
I could see it if the needle had a wire keeper that went over the metering lever.
 

67L36Driver

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I kinda agree with that too.
Ive never seen a metering lever that didnt engage the needle somehow. Even the Marvel Shebler on my Allis model C has a wire keeper that goes over the float tang.
Something has to pull the needle open.
I could see it if the needle had a wire keeper that went over the metering lever.

No it don’t. The carb has a pump side that will push fuel past the needle to fill the metering chamber.

You haven’t been inside many old Tilly HL’s.
 

Al Smith

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I kinda agree with that too. Even the Marvel Shebler on my Allis model C has a wire keeper that goes over the float tang.
Something has to pull the needle open.
.
Since it's been mentioned I did a very indepth rebuild of one for my Oliver crawler this past summer including running a tap through every threaded hole on that thing .Interesting fact the high speed jet on that thing is 1/4" 40 .That one I had to surf e-bay to find,I had the rest on hand . .
 

Al Smith

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In this discussion about carbs I can't recall one from an other by model number .However about forked levers some had a fork on the diaphragm as well as the needle valve .You had to fork them on both ends which is not a big deal .
 

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Think the SDCs have those.
Think one of the family 1010 supers has a Tully. Havent needed to go into it.
 

67L36Driver

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Made my own slightly shorter needle (right side).
6c5aaf4f879046da86369d793bb27417.jpg

Used a razor saw on a leftover (left side).

What I found in the carb is center.

The short one sticks up above the brass just a touch so the lever won’t bottom on it (brass tube).
0ccccc6c797618a291cee3f1b5b59599.jpg


Geometry is much better.
4497a9951282fd4360faea9d7001e36f.jpg


For lack of anything to go by we set it level with the housing rim.

Runs and cuts. [emoji57]
b1b30bc3a3a30d289aeb8d9c641f0d7f.jpg


But it became obvious the crank seals are sucking air. Makes it tricky to get the mixture right. [emoji90]

And, the auto oiler isn’t oiling. [emoji2959]
 

Dream

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Saw looks to be in decent shape. At least its running. Now to the rest of the list of problems.
 
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