High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

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fossil

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Fossil, I'd appreciate the link as well - have been failing to find hard copy manuals etc for these saws....

To all who have replied to my enquiry - thank you - you are adding to my knowledge of these saws!


The link to the manual is in your inbox
 

NeSurcaster

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I got to run Marks s/p 60 today finally, lots of torque. 24" bar w/ a oregon exj fully buried in red oak wouldn't bog even when gently trying to make it bog. I ran the p/m 55 side by side w/ the sp 60, the 60 has a noticeable more torque. 55 might have more chain speed in smaller logs? but the 55 will bog if you try to make it bog in larger wood. I've been putting liquid rubber on the handle bars the last week or so. About 15-20 coats on each handle bar for a total thickness of 6-8 mm w/ my calipers. So far so good, I got some fuel and oil on the rubber w/ no adverse effects yet.
 

NeSurcaster

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I also started grinding/fileing that tsumura bar, that's some tough steel. Started w/ a drill bit, no luck there. I got 1 side done today both the oil hole and bar adjuster slot. I'm gonna try to open up the oil passage a little more possibly after testing. I should also say that when I contacted performance outdoor equipment about the fit they got back to me instantly. I believe his name was Nate but he went above and beyond. He gave me 2 options both at a loss for him, I took option #2 where I keep the bar and he reimbursed me 20 bucks and shipping. The bar cost 45.00 on there website so Nate took good care of me.
 

Steve

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I got to run Marks s/p 60 today finally, lots of torque. 24" bar w/ a oregon exj fully buried in red oak wouldn't bog even when gently trying to make it bog. I ran the p/m 55 side by side w/ the sp 60, the 60 has a noticeable more torque. 55 might have more chain speed in smaller logs? but the 55 will bog if you try to make it bog in larger wood. I've been putting liquid rubber on the handle bars the last week or so. About 15-20 coats on each handle bar for a total thickness of 6-8 mm w/ my calipers. So far so good, I got some fuel and oil on the rubber w/ no adverse effects yet.

Get a 7-10. You'll sell that sp60. I know from experience!
 

Dub11

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I also started grinding/fileing that tsumura bar, that's some tough steel. Started w/ a drill bit, no luck there. I got 1 side done today both the oil hole and bar adjuster slot. I'm gonna try to open up the oil passage a little more possibly after testing. I should also say that when I contacted performance outdoor equipment about the fit they got back to me instantly. I believe his name was Nate but he went above and beyond. He gave me 2 options both at a loss for him, I took option #2 where I keep the bar and he reimbursed me 20 bucks and shipping. The bar cost 45.00 on there website so Nate took good care of me.

I like to use them diamond ball burrs on a dremel for opening the oiler holes.


And Nate is a badass! I love doing business with him damn good dude right there.
 
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NeSurcaster

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I like to use them diamond ball burrs on a dremel for opening the oiler holes.


And Nate is a badass! I love doing business with him damn good dude right there.

I have one of those burrs, I'm assuming your using that from the bottom up not threw the bar rail where a cut off disc fits? Where I want to open it more is from the inside of the adjuster holes. Drilling/cutting straight is not one of my specialty's so I was nervous the whole time cutting w/ the disc inside the bar rails. I knicked the rails a few times but nothing too deep.
 

Dub11

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I have one of those burrs, I'm assuming your using that from the bottom up not threw the bar rail where a cut off disc fits? Where I want to open it more is from the inside of the adjuster holes. Drilling/cutting straight is not one of my specialty's so I was nervous the whole time cutting w/ the disc inside the bar rails. I knicked the rails a few times but nothing too deep.

I was enlarging the existing holes. And not going through the rail.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Where I want to open it more is from the inside of the adjuster holes.

Out of curiosity, did you flip the adjuster upside down to see if it would then line up with the hole in the bar? I know it works with large mount Husky bars if it's an offset lug adjuster.
 

NeSurcaster

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Out of curiosity, did you flip the adjuster upside down to see if it would then line up with the hole in the bar? I know it works with large mount Husky bars if it's an offset lug adjuster.

The adjuster would work w/out the plate, I think I still would of opened it up a little bit to make it easier lining the adjuster up. It was a coin flip for me on what to do but I just stuck w/ my original plan to open it up to match my existing bar. Once I realized how hard the steel was I almost backed out and aborted.
 

Dub11

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The adjuster would work w/out the plate, I think I still would of opened it up a little bit to make it easier lining the adjuster up. It was a coin flip for me on what to do but I just stuck w/ my original plan to open it up to match my existing bar. Once I realized how hard the steel was I almost backed out and aborted.

Yeah HF drill bits didnt stand a chance.
 

NeSurcaster

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I gave it about 5 mins w/ a steady supply of oil but no luck w/ some never heard of brand "Kobalt" bits. The kobalt bits have worked a few times for me when no others would but not on that bar.

So the verdict is the 7-10 may be a tad faster then the 700 until a longer bar comes out?
 
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