Stihl ms200t rebuild bolt for bolt vids

[Mattyo]

i haven't been using them, but supposedly they have issues, I will investigate asap. I tend to think I'm going to have to pony up for new oem carbs.

have no idea what aftermarket case is like... I'd try one... why not? if you can find a oem case cheap, great, but if not, then why not try AM?

 

[pro94lt]

Anyone know which way the bearings go in? Cage retainer to the outside? Or does it matter

 

[Mattyo]

interesting question, dunno if it matters, I put the cage retainer towards the outside

 

[pro94lt]

Looks like the crank could hit the cage if you put them facing the inside

 

[Mattyo]

interesting, nice observation

 

[Lone Wolf]

Forgot to add I did some work on the muffler .Did the remove the spark arrester thing but also removed part of the tabs on the exit side of the exhaust towards the side the exit holes are on.Enlarged the holes of course .I don't know it it helped or not certainly didn't hurt .

They say it takes fuel to make power .I'd imagine the little saw would burn a tank in about 40-45 minutes which is what most saws run .This one would drive a tree trimmer nuts,about 20-25 minutes and it's time to gas up .I can deal with it .

It takes 20 min flat to run a stock one out of gas if you cut in a big hurry. I seen slackers take 2 hours though!

 

[Lone Wolf]

Anyone know which way the bearings go in? Cage retainer to the outside? Or does it matter

Nylon ring to the outside.

 

[Mattyo]

Thanks LW, makes sense

 

[pro94lt]

My aftermarket bearings were nylon, the stihl were metal... Mine is back together and appears to be running good. I tried a cheap Chinese carb, a zamma , another zamma with a big air horn, and a walbro. It liked the zamma with the big horn coming off the diagram best. What are the specs of the crank where the bearings ride? I've got 2 others I'm fixing to do the same. This one the crank was just a hair over 12mm measured by a caliper...

 

[Lone Wolf]

My aftermarket bearings were nylon, the stihl were metal... Mine is back together and appears to be running good. I tried a cheap Chinese carb, a zamma , another zamma with a big air horn, and a walbro. It liked the zamma with the big horn coming off the diagram best. What are the specs of the crank where the bearings ride? I've got 2 others I'm fixing to do the same. This one the crank was just a hair over 12mm measured by a caliper...

The Stihl bearings OEM have a nylon ring on one side that goes outward. I get 12 mm with my Mitutoyo caliper. Try again , press a little harder. Just put it together and see if you have any up and down play. You might with aftermarket bearings!

 

[Al Smith]

Just a suggestion on those cases .At one time you could land the lower ends for about 50 bucks off flea bay .However that was before after market cylinder kits when it cost about $300 to rebuild using an OEM jug and slug .I think of memory serves I did two of them that way .However with these crazy prices they are getting now of days that option might not be possible now . I'm kind of out of the loop on those parts because I haven't done any work on the 020/200 for several years .
Kind of funny because the older 020 AV top handles were the biggest pain in the buttocks to work on .About like a mini Mac then came the 020T's and they are the easiest .

 

[Al Smith]

Here's another thought .With those OEM seals with a lot of run time they could leak after a few minutes of use because the seal has hardened up .You might not find a leaker on a pressure test on a cold engine .I had one that made a monkey out of me before I figured it out .Blamed the carb but it was the seal on the clutch side that done the dirty deed .New bearings and seals and it ran like a top .

 

[av8or3]

I chased a ghost in one of these thinking it was seals. Worked out a way to pressure test and found the case was tight (no leaks). New carb fixed it. Runs like a new one.

 

[Al Smith]

Say I did run the numbers on the 024 seals and the number given for the 020T .Exactly the same size 12-20-5 , 024 flywheel side and 020 both sides .

 

[PA Dan]

Say I did run the numbers on the 024 seals and the number given for the 020T .Exactly the same size 12-20-5 , 024 flywheel side and 020 both sides .

I use that seal on all the 200t's I build. Destroyed the first set of 200t seals upon install and will never use another set of those.

 

[Al Smith]

I thought the OEM 200T seals were rather odd the way they were made however after seeing these that should be better I have to wonder what the engineers at Stihl were thinking ? As far as I know the 024 predates the 200T Unless the OEM seals are just some carry over from the 020T which would explain it --sort of that is .

 

[av8or3]

From what I’ve been able to gather, the original seals are quite a bit more durable than they look. They must be pressed in evenly and installed dry. I bet I shattered 4 or 5 trying to hammer them “evenly”as possible before I got my press. Lol. And there’s nothing more scary or painful on this saw than having to dig them out a bit at a time. I have both in the field and can’t say which is better. I do intend to use the originals I have left and then I may switch to the 026/024 seals for good.

 

[Mattyo]

I use the originals only if I'm doing a full split. Easier to use my press if the case halves are apart.....If I'm not splitting the case then im using the 024 seals.

 

[av8or3]

I use the originals only if I'm doing a full split. Easier to use my press if the case halves are apart.....If I'm not splitting the case then im using the 024 seals.

What he said.

 

[PA Dan]

I don't buy the gasket sets anymore. I buy the 026 seal and a case gasket. I make a .015 base gasket on a vinyl cutting machine.