As they are the posts are not very straight, I am guessing that they were not drilled out with a drill press. They probably messed up and needed to add a Helicoil. It possible that the donor 050/051 case was jacked up to begin with and this was the best they could do to get it serviceable.If the builder needed to go from M5 to M6, why would a Helicoil even be needed?
Did this saw have an orange cover stating it was an 075? If the cylinder kit was aftermarket the may have given an 050/051 a big bore kit. I have the 050/051 repair manual and I do believe it calls out the serial number the cases were modified at.So true, I was getting ready to start putting the saw together and found that the new clutch side oil seal was too big. The one that came with the new kit was 25x47x7mm and the one came out was 30x42x7mm. The 075/076 IPL calls for the 25x47x7...I did more digging and searching and had about 100 internet tabs open before I found my answer, the previous mechanic (or whatever you want to call the person who worked on this saw) appears to have modified a 050/051 crank case. I measured the piston at 58mm so it is a 075 piston/cylinder, but the crank case needs the 30x42x7mm oil seal which I found in the 050/051 IPL which this IPL lists both size oil seals (I guess depending on the year the unit was built). It appears that all four cylinder studs are in helicoils, which makes sense if they had to enlarge the 5mm holes to accept the 6mm cylinder studs. Also this case is missing the manual oiler which seems to be found on the 075/076s. If anyone has access to a serial number lookup, the SN on this saw is 8580821. I tried looking for a part number on the crankcase, but I am guessing it is on the inside and I don't feel like splitting the case just to see.
Time to order a 9629 003 3400 30x42x7mm oil seal so I can get this thing back together....
I put the cylinder/piston back on with just the gasket and have it a spin and there was no knocking, the piston moved freely without issue. I think the shim was for the helicoil that was sticking up.If you end up with a head knocker some sort of shim or a thicker gasket is almost your only option
Yes the air cover has the 075 plate on it.Did this saw have an orange cover stating it was an 075
I tried tightening up the post and it still wiggles like a loose tooth, I will need to get a new helicoil and replace it for sure!I’ve seen helicoils fail in magnesium and that one will be missing 3 threads
I put the cylinder/piston back on with just the gasket and have it a spin and there was no knocking, the piston moved freely without issue. I think the shim was for the helicoil that was sticking up.
Yes the air cover has the 075 plate on it.
I tried tightening up the post and it still wiggles like a loose tooth, I will need to get a new helicoil and replace it for sure!
They need a flat-bottom tap for a good seat. Otherwise the tapped hole will be tapered and not allow the bolt/screw to go in all the way.They probably didn’t tap it deep enough. IIRC helicoil kits come with a blind tap but if it doesn’t you probably need it. Considering the top end, I’m guessing that’s a chinese helicoil. Sometimes they come in a kit with a standard tapered tap.
They need a flat-bottom tap for a good seat. Otherwise the tapped hole will be tapered and not allow the bolt/screw to go in all the way.
When I had the post out, the hole does go all the way through (does not bottom out) as seen with the screwdriver passing through it.
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I was puzzled as to why the Helicoil was not put deeper. Possibly like other things they Jimmy-rigged it with what they had on hand.
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Not much left of the Helicoil. I will look at blind taps and Time-serts, I have neither, but sounds like its time for me to have some on hand!
Edit: I guess I can use a through-hole tap here? Still learning about these.
I just grind off the end of an extra tap for this. Start the hole with standard and finish with flat.Square bootom is a bootoming tap .View attachment 425689