So what's the current two stroke oil favorite?

[pbillyi69]

So what is this?

crappy gas is what it is. tier 2 non branded gas with unknown addatives

 

[smokey7]

I bought Amsoil Saber at my local Napa and the counter parts guy made sure to tell me it was synthetic! It's not real oil, in other words. Kind of like they sell it but they don't really believe in it.... I live in North Bend WA, lot's of big douglas fir trees, and they are always wet for 9 months out of the year it seems like. I have'nt opened it yet, so am wondering if I should exchange it for some "real oil!" Lol...

It wasn't that big of a purchase, maybe like 12-14$ for a quart of it. Says right on there it's Synthetic!

They always give me kind of wierd looks when I buy German oil for my VW TDI, so I have been going to a different store for that oil, in Issaquah WA. Still is a Napa and they know all those "other guys" up the hill where I live at in North Bend. A guy at the Issaquah store did a gasket delete on his 372xp and he went on and on for about 15 minutes about Permatex, and compression, the guys in North Bend vs the Issaquah store....

It's kind of a hoot actually, hope they aren't members here or I'll be paying higher prices if they figure it out! You get better pricing if you don't dress up, go in there looking like you just pulled a transmission or something and need some parts and Gear Oil... then ask about the chainsaw oil sort of as an aside conversation... Just my theory anyways. My brother always says "Any oil is better than no Oil!" As I have blown up a few motors in my day... I was using Lucas oil at around 50:1 when I was trying to cut through a limb last year and the 372xpw just froze up and shut down.

Now I have a new OEM crankcase I got from someone on the other site, a new Gilardoni Piston/Cylinder kit, MityVac, Carb kit, new rubber parts, but the one thing I don't have that I really want now is just a plain old oil can for assembly!

Found this one on Amazon for 25$ just to show you guys what I am talking about... I don't want to mess the saw up after spending all that money on new parts! But still not going to pay 25$ for an oil can! View attachment 415145

Why did you need to replace the crank case? You basically built a new saw

 

[WCfirewoodguy]

Why did you need to replace the crank case? You basically built a new saw

I just wanted to make sure I eliminated that from the possible reasons for the saw to sieze up on me. Could have had a blown seal or an air leak. I didn't have a Mityvac pressure/vacuum tester at the time. Didn't have a case splitter. Didn't have a tach. Knowing what I know now, I might have rebuilt the case versus buying a new one, but hindsight is always 20/20 as they say.

It's just a chainsaw to me, to cut firewood with. To other people it's kind of more of a special thing to have the 372xpw saw all rebuilt and looking brand new again. So I let the crankcase go once I got the new case shipped. Stripped it out and let it go. (Rubber parts, still had the crank and it was not split) Guy told me he rebuilt it and it was in fairly good condition. So that wasn't the problem.

Anyways, too late now, I have a almost brand new 372 xp saw now. I still need a few parts, new clutch drum, new sprocket, possibly new carburetor even. Why not at this point? Or I could sell all of my new OEM parts and get my money back most likely. As long as I don't fire it up those parts will hold thier value.

So I am a 372 xp parts hoarder now, for the time being! Lol...

 

[smokey7]

I'm having a time trying to contemplate this one. In my thinking nothing but mix goes through the crankcase and nothing but air goes through the stratos... no? Unless of course the stratos were "dirtied up", or you really meant automatic tuning that doesn't allow running at a richer mixture?

In my minds eye I see a possibly fatter air fuel ratio going through the carb and nothing but air in the strato. I think we all understand some air has to carry the fuel into the case.

 

[Stump Shot]

In my minds eye I see a possibly fatter air fuel ratio going through the carb and nothing but air in the strato. I think we all understand some air has to carry the fuel into the case.

I understand where they are coming from now. Those type machines use less fuel than their earlier counterparts, so less fuel = less mix = less oil. So the more fuel efficient the motor, the less oil it receives as the oil is mixed with the fuel.
Otherwise, you are correct, the fuel from the carburetor is "fat" and mixes with the air supplied to properly support combustion.
Difference is, just a bit of the air is lost in the exhaust and not fuel/air mix like the saws of old.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

That’s a main failure in a 5 series husky running mediocre oil at 50:1. Along with some fuel/carb issues.

And a rare failure on older pre-strato saws

I hate 50:1! My brother in laws have a couple of stacked pallets of dead stihls all run at 50:1. Yet for decades i used his 034super and mixed my own fuel for it at 25:1 never failed! Until i left and it later died… 50:1!
My saws have always run on 98oct or a minimum 95, & mineral air-cooled two stroke oil at 25:1 or later a couple of autotunes 562 592 at 32:1 …. I dont have any dead saws nor have had an engine failure in four decades, so for me its damn hard to get my brain and heart to change to much leaner mixes as i just don’t see a brighter light on the horizon. I’ve never carried a work saw all day in the bush and then not carried it back in anything but working condition, and i’m not about to listen to a dealer have me change my mix or run an oil i have no idea what its specs are or who makes it. Stay sharp
(ps and yet husky state 33:1 for commercial or pro use saws in its 592manual! But dealers say 50:1?)

 

[FergusonTO35]

I hate 50:1! My brother in laws have a couple of stacked pallets of dead stihls all run at 50:1. Yet for decades i used his 034super and mixed my own fuel for it at 25:1 never failed! Until i left and it later died… 50:1!
My saws have always run on 98oct or a minimum 95, & mineral air-cooled two stroke oil at 25:1 or later a couple of autotunes 562 592 at 32:1 …. I dont have any dead saws nor have had an engine failure in four decades, so for me its damn hard to get my brain and heart to change to much leaner mixes as i just don’t see a brighter light on the horizon. I’ve never carried a work saw all day in the bush and then not carried it back in anything but working condition, and i’m not about to listen to a dealer have me change my mix or run an oil i have no idea what its specs are or who makes it. Stay sharp
(ps and yet husky state 33:1 for commercial or pro use saws in its 592manual! But dealers say 50:1?)

Rock on! I may go to 32:1 on my next jug of fuel and see how it does. I have two strato Huskies, a saw and a weedeater, and I can see how they would likely benefit from more oil.

 

[Squareground3691]

I hate 50:1! My brother in laws have a couple of stacked pallets of dead stihls all run at 50:1. Yet for decades i used his 034super and mixed my own fuel for it at 25:1 never failed! Until i left and it later died… 50:1!
My saws have always run on 98oct or a minimum 95, & mineral air-cooled two stroke oil at 25:1 or later a couple of autotunes 562 592 at 32:1 …. I dont have any dead saws nor have had an engine failure in four decades, so for me its damn hard to get my brain and heart to change to much leaner mixes as i just don’t see a brighter light on the horizon. I’ve never carried a work saw all day in the bush and then not carried it back in anything but working condition, and i’m not about to listen to a dealer have me change my mix or run an oil i have no idea what its specs are or who makes it. Stay sharp
(ps and yet husky state 33:1 for commercial or pro use saws in its 592manual! But dealers say 50:1?)

Dealers just tell customers what the manufacturer tell them to do , nothing else,

 

[Woodsman]

I was thinking of alternating back and forth between oils of Honda HP2 and Amsoil Dominator. Use Honda HP2 at 40:1 to 36:1 for most of the year then use Amsoil Dominator at 32:1 for a gas tank or two for that extra cleaning solution. I think the Ams Dom will be good to use for your last cut of the season right before you store your chainsaw for a long period without using it.

Fuel will be Sunoco Optima 5 95 octane or VP Racing, same octane, non-ethanol.

 

[full chizel]

I have a hard time believing a properly tuned saw with fresh fuel and good oil will blow up at 50:1

 

[Squareground3691]

I have a hard time believing a properly tuned saw with fresh fuel and good oil will blow up at 50:1

I would think lack of bearing lubrication failure, more than anything else,

 

[full chizel]

I would think lack of bearing lubrication failure, more than anything else,

Most likely, but a couple of stacked pallets is a stretch lol

 

[pwheel]

I have a hard time believing a properly tuned saw with fresh fuel and good oil will blow up at 50:1

I volunteer to be the 2-stroke oil crash test dummy : Mobil E10 91 octane w/ Amsoil Saber @ 50:1 - stock Stihl manual carb 50-77 cc saws tuned with a tach. White oak & white pine up to 36" Ø. Over five years and counting - still nothing to report except that Stihl Ultra left too much carbon before that.

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Most likely, but a couple of stacked pallets is a stretch lol

Pity i didn’t keep the pics, saws from 084’s right down to 200 top handles, many around the sixty to seventy five cc, sad really, and the worst part, flat out to get one for parts if him and then most were thrown out

 

[Skiptooth Fred]

Dealers just tell customers what the manufacturer tell them to do , nothing else,

Emissions and Parts sales!!

 

[pbillyi69]

I have a hard time believing a properly tuned saw with fresh fuel and good oil will blow up at 50:1

i have run a bunch of equipment at 50:1 because that is what was recomended until i took the first one apart and i saw how dry it was inside. I switched to 40:1 after that now i just run it all at 32:1 its easier to just have one mix fuel can all the same.

 

[Woodsman]

i have run a bunch of equipment at 50:1 because that is what was recomended until i took the first one apart and i saw how dry it was inside. I switched to 40:1 after that now i just run it all at 32:1 its easier to just have one mix fuel can all the same.

Did you notice a difference in carbon build up and engine wear between the 40:1 vs the 32:1 ?

 

[huskihl]

Did you notice a difference in carbon build up and engine wear between the 40:1 vs the 32:1 ?

Not with good oil

 

[AnthemBassMan]

I just picked up my new Stihl MS261c a couple days ago. The guy at the counter told me that he recommends running 40:1 if I mix my own fuel. I told him that everything I own is 2 stroke and that’s the ratio I already use. But I did buy the can of Motomix to get the extra year on the warranty.

L8R,
Matt

 

[pbillyi69]

Did you notice a difference in carbon build up and engine wear between the 40:1 vs the 32:1 ?

not so far