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Simington / Silvey Square Chain Grinders Tips/Tricks/Secrets

psuiewalsh

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I bought a blue and salmon within the past several months. I think the salmon was $18 or so and the blue was around$40? Their PDF catalog is online
 

psuiewalsh

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I did mess with my grinder last night again. I can't get a good picture though. On my silvey swingarm I raised up and tilted the chain rest forward and it seems closer to the desired angles. I still cannot seem to produce the vertical side plate on the tooth. Mine all sweep back. I am getting good at making teeth shorter though.
 

Deets066

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I did mess with my grinder last night again. I can't get a good picture though. On my silvey swingarm I raised up and tilted the chain rest forward and it seems closer to the desired angles. I still cannot seem to produce the vertical side plate on the tooth. Mine all sweep back. I am getting good at making teeth shorter though.
Just a thought, but you could try less angle on the bottom dresser, more blunt. But this could have a different affect on a swing arm than an RS2
 

mdavlee

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I did mess with my grinder last night again. I can't get a good picture though. On my silvey swingarm I raised up and tilted the chain rest forward and it seems closer to the desired angles. I still cannot seem to produce the vertical side plate on the tooth. Mine all sweep back. I am getting good at making teeth shorter though.
How much lean are you getting?
 

Greenthorn

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From madsens catalog


#M21 grey medium-soft vitrified 120 17.95
• This wheel dresses easily and removes material quickly. It doesn’t hold its shape as well as harder wheels, but It remains one of our best selling wheels.

#M21W grey waxed medium-soft vitrified 120 18.95
• This wheel is similar to the wheel above, but it is impregnated with wax for lubrication and cool grinding. Like the wheel above, it produces a good finish on cutter teeth, but it is not as popular.

#M47 salmon medium vitrified 100 17.95
• This wheel shapes and finishes cutter teeth well. It doesn’t remove material as fast as softer wheels above. It is also one of our best selling wheels.

#M50 white medium vitrified 100 17.95
• This wheel is similar to the wheel above. Some grinder operators say its white color makes it easier for them to see the corner in the wheel, which improves their ability to align corners.

#M49 brown medium resinoid 80 18.95
• This wheel removes material easily and quickly, however it doesn’t finish or shape as well as others. It is a good wheel if you have to grind a lot of chains each night or if you regularly sharpen rocked chains.

#M99 blue medium vitrified 100 39.95
• This is our only ceramic blend wheel. It keeps its shape and finishes cutter teeth very well. It is an excellent wheel and many grinder operators prefer it, but it is also the most expensive.
 

Duane(Pa)

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True. I would think edge geometry would be of much greater importance than surface finish, however In my experience a knife with a refined edge tends to keep that edge longer. it may not help , but not going to hurt anything either.


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Also makes for some dang nice photos too!
 

Duane(Pa)

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I did mess with my grinder last night again. I can't get a good picture though. On my silvey swingarm I raised up and tilted the chain rest forward and it seems closer to the desired angles. I still cannot seem to produce the vertical side plate on the tooth. Mine all sweep back. I am getting good at making teeth shorter though.
This is copy/pasted from a Madsens article:

Since the grinding wheel is ultimately what shapes the face of your chain's cutter-teeth, its shape has a big affect on your set up. The shape of the grinding wheel is in fact a "negative" of the grind it puts on your cutter teeth, so if you wish to change its shape, you must change the path of the dressers that shape it. To do this, loosen the bolt that mounts it to the grinder housing, pivot the mounting block, and then retighten the mounting bolt.

Why would you want to do this? Let's say your current setup grinds the outside side-plate angle almost perpendicular to the top-plate. You read information on Madsen's web site that says you should have a slight back-slope. You decide you want to try this, so you pivot the block that mounts the dresser that cuts the outside edge of the grinding wheel. You tilt the block a little towards the motor, tighten it back up, and redress the wheel. Now the wheel has a slightly different shape -- it flares out more at its base. Next, you test the new wheel shape by grinding a tooth on an old chain to test the change. Perfect -- the back-slope is just what you were looking for.


Full article:

http://www.madsens1.com/sim_tuning.htm
 
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Duane(Pa)

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Brian what dressers are you using? Multi or singles?
I talked to Kelly at Simington. I was asking if there are any easy upgrades to my old (read not very adjustable) 450. The answer was basically no. He did tell me the cluster point dressers produce a much nicer finish on the wheel, and my guess is that it translates to the tooth. It may not matter like Mike said, but it looks like the only minor upgrade available for my machine. I may look at different wheels down the road, but for now I am living with my salmon, and just trying to get everything running 3/8 square......I always say "I have more sheet than a saw shop" files, chains, bars, rims, etc. Need to streamline so I can spend more time on the trigger.....
 
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psuiewalsh

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Interesting. My tooth may be appropriate then. I was going under the assumption that vertical was the desired side plate angle. Mine does slope back away from the tooth point.
 

Duane(Pa)

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Interesting. My tooth may be appropriate then. I was going under the assumption that vertical was the desired side plate angle. Mine does slope back away from the tooth point.
I'm a real rookie, but I was thinking the same thing. Kind of why I posted. It's hip to be square!
 

Greenthorn

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What is the difference between "multi point" and "single point" dressers? I'm sure mine are single point.
 

Sierrawoodsman

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Just a thought, but you could try less angle on the bottom dresser, more blunt. But this could have a different affect on a swing arm than an RS2

That's one thing I could tell from your profile is that your sideplate dresser angle was more vertical (blunt) then I had mine set up.
When I corrected that it really helped.


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concretegrazer

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Interesting. My tooth may be appropriate then. I was going under the assumption that vertical was the desired side plate angle. Mine does slope back away from the tooth point.

Up to 5° forward lean is ok from what I've read. Remember it's all give and take... faster dulls quicker.
 
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