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Sharpening with no vise

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I sharpen anywhere with the best method possible. Mostly swapping out loops these days because I find more metal than wood it seems like.
The file is still king over all my round grinders. Converted square comes in handy when needed. Sharpening with one hand seems easier to me with round filed vs square.
Switching to a diamond wheel this winter to see if the grind comes out sharper. It really matters that the chain is razor sharp for milling old figured hardwoods.
 

davidwyby

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2n1 pretty good but doesn’t get the gullet.

I like to hold what I’m filing with one hand, can’t stand chatter.

most important thing I’ve noticed for me, is to get the saw up high in your face! Get it where you can see what you’re doing, follow what’s there assuming it’s newish/good. Get yer magnifiers out.

I’ve screwed up chains carelessly looking down on them not paying attention.
 

rogue60

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I find both round and square easy to sharpen one hand filing am just as fast sharpening either.
I never did use square much it gets knocked around bad fast in really hard hardwoods compered to round filed but I will say it's good in timber like stringy bark and blackbutt.
My dad owning a sawmill and myself having to learn how to sharpen "everything" that cuts timber I can hands down say a chainsaw chain is the easiest thing that cuts wood to sharpen don't even have to worry about set lol
iPhone's and the internet's have moden man thinking he is smarter than generations gone they forgotten more than we'll ever know lol
images (45) (1).jpeg
 

deye223

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I find both round and square easy to sharpen one hand filing am just as fast sharpening either.
I never did use square much it gets knocked around bad fast in really hard hardwoods compered to round filed but I will say it's good in timber like stringy bark and blackbutt.
My dad owning a sawmill and myself having to learn how to sharpen "everything" that cuts timber I can hands down say a chainsaw chain is the easiest thing that cuts wood to sharpen don't even have to worry about set lol
iPhone's and the internet's have moden man thinking he is smarter than generations gone they forgotten more than we'll ever know lol
View attachment 270579
+1
 

Philbert

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don't even have to worry about set

Jointing’ and ‘setting’ saw chain cutters is ‘automatic’, as long as they are the same length. That is part of the genius of Joe Cox’s design.

(It also leads directly into the debate about whether cutters need to be the same length!).

Philbert
 

rogue60

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Jointing’ and ‘setting’ saw chain cutters is ‘automatic’, as long as they are the same length. That is part of the genius of Joe Cox’s design.

(It also leads directly into the debate about whether cutters need to be the same length!).

Philbert
Never thought of it like that with saw chain as I don't sharpen with cutters all over the place. But yeah if a cutter in front is longer than the cutter behind it (same side) wouldn't the set on the shorter cutter be less? In my mind the longer cutters would be working harder cleaning up what the shorter cutters missed having less set.
I keep my cutters the same length as I don't use a raker tool of any kind.
 
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rogue60

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I have posted versions of these a few times:

View attachment 270633

Philbert
So just like all other types of saw's that cut timber side set all left and all right on chainsaw chain needs to be uniform the same length cutters as there are no guide's to adjust individual different length cutters for uniform set (removing material from side of raker) not that I think that would work it would let the cutter pull and tilt over further adding wear and tear on the chain and bar.
So guy's that say it's fine to have all the cutters different lengths because they have a progressive depth gauge guide are only looking at half the picture oblivious to the set side of things when it comes to chainsaw chain.
So the result of different length cutters regards to set whether guys like it or not is the longer cutters are doing way more unnecessary work cleaning up after the shorter cutters. All this making for an inefficient chain any wonder guy's that believe cutter length doesn't matter are so impressed with chain off there grinders lol
 
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Philbert

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So the result of different length cutters regards to set whether guys like it or not is the longer cutters are doing way more unnecessary work cleaning up after the shorter cutters

Like I said:

(It also leads directly into the debate about whether cutters need to be the same length!).

Clearly those other chains cut, if the depth gauges are matched to each cutter. And, if they cut good enough for that user, then that is all that is required. Small differences in tooth length would not make a noticeable difference. And, there are other factors, such as filing / grinding angles, depth gauge offsets, edge sharpness, etc. But all things equal, uniform tooth lengths should lead to a smoother, more efficient cut.

If a chain has one or two rocked cutters, I don't take the rest back that far - that seems to be a waste. I just let the remaining teeth 'catch up' over time. But if the cutter lengths are all over the place, a grinder is a good way to even things up.

JMHO

Philbert
 

rogue60

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I agree 100%
As you say these chain's still cut
I think in really soft wood it wouldn't be as bad or even noticeable? but the harder the wood gets it could start to become a real problem? the longer cutters with more set could be doing 3 times the work getting through and cleaning out the smaller kerf left by the shorter with less set cutters.
I think I'll stick to as close as humanly possible to same length cutters myself regardless of what YouTube says lol
 
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Austin

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Sitting on a tailgate,log or stump while hugging/hovering bearing your weight on your saw. You become the vice.
 

Eduardo K

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I have a stump vise but rarely use it. I was taught to sharpen with a hand file no guide and always achieved acceptable results. I like gadgets and bought a granberg file-n-joint just to get a consistent 10* "cross" angle. It was a pain to use at first, but now that Im used to it I can clamp it on and touch up the chain pretty fast with a consistent edge across the cutters. The nice thing about the granberg is it clamped to the bar and holds the tooth. I keep it in the truck if I need it and sharpen on the tailgate. It could probably be used to clear out the gullet as well, but for now thats a task that is easier with a vise, depth gauges too.
 

Al Smith

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I only use a vise if using a Dremel if I hit a rock or something .That's the only time I use a Dremel . I think I might have a loop or two hanging on nails for repairs . I had good intensions of doing chain work this winter but it didn't happen .
 
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