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jmssaws

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My MMWS 395 is aggressive to me. Can't think about a more aggressive saw. Though I then got this ported 084 in the mail the other day.
Only big mount bar I have is this 28" 404
Looks like a 20 on it. Lol
 

jmssaws

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I'm only speaking about these few saws I have here,he can build a stronger 395 I guarantee,he sent it to me for perspective.

If you only run saws that you build you will eventually get lost on what is strong and what ain't,port enough saws and over time they all seem the same so it's good to have a freind to send a saw down and remind you what strong is.

We've all thought we were building studs until we ran one that was a stud.

Hedgerow says it all the time and it's true
We all need a little perspective once in a while.
 

Manofstihl066

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That is bone stock but the best 066 cylinder I've ever seen.
What makes some 066 cylinders better than others? I want a flat top 066 but want to make sure I'm getting one of the better ones. The 064 hybrid was a beast.
 

jmssaws

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What makes some 066 cylinders better than others? I want a flat top 066 but want to make sure I'm getting one of the better ones. The 064 hybrid was a beast.
They very drastically with port timing
I don't know if I ever seen 2 the same
Most will be close to 96 123 78 but I had a ks red light cylinder that was 93 117 83
And I like the exhaust around 100+ and it takes a cylinder that's 97 or better to get 100 without having 230lbs of compression.

The cylinder I used on Al's hybrid was
99.5 120 78 and the best I've ever seen.

I have one now that's 99 120 77
I'm building a 064 hybrid for Clint Davis that's 98.5

You want a mahle 066 cylinder but occasionally a stihl branded 660 cylinder will be decent .
 

jmssaws

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What makes some 066 cylinders better than others? I want a flat top 066 but want to make sure I'm getting one of the better ones. The 064 hybrid was a beast.
Another thing is that the best timed cylinders are not the no decomp cylinders,they are better than the 660 cylinders but far and away the best are the last 066 mahle decomp cylinders before they changed to the 660.
If you get a mahle with a decomp hole in it then generally it's a good one.
 

jmssaws

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Jason, you could cut a 3 degree taper into the squish to relieve compression a little, it'd be easy now !
Do you think chamber size affects performance?
Say a 50cc chamber at 200lbs and a 70cc chamber at 200lbs
Think they will run different?
I don't know but I've always heard you want it small as possible.

Thoughts?
Be something that needs to be tested
 

Armbru84

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I'm only speaking about these few saws I have here,he can build a stronger 395 I guarantee,he sent it to me for perspective.

If you only run saws that you build you will eventually get lost on what is strong and what ain't,port enough saws and over time they all seem the same so it's good to have a freind to send a saw down and remind you what strong is.

We've all thought we were building studs until we ran one that was a stud.

Hedgerow says it all the time and it's true
We all need a little perspective once in a while.


Very well put. Good point on the quads vs dual transfers as well. Makes sense.
 

Moparmyway

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Do you think chamber size affects performance?
Say a 50cc chamber at 200lbs and a 70cc chamber at 200lbs
Think they will run different?
I don't know but I've always heard you want it small as possible.

Thoughts?
Be something that needs to be tested
I'm sure that we could find examples of 50cc saws that are at opposite ends of the spectrum, as well as 90cc saws that contradict each other
 

jmssaws

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I'm sure that we could find examples of 50cc saws that are at opposite ends of the spectrum, as well as 90cc saws that contradict each other
50cc chamber size vs a 70cc chamber size on the same size saw
 

Moparmyway

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50cc chamber size vs a 70cc chamber size on the same size saw
My bad
I've gotcha now ......

Chamber shape, compression, pop-up ....... all variables, but everything else being equal and if compression isn't through the roof, I'd take the 50cc chamber


That being said, if I had a 50cc chamber that had too much compression, I'd consider adding a few cc's to drop it some. 3 degrees isn't much, but it will help lower compression a little
 

jmssaws

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My bad
I've gotcha now ......

Chamber shape, compression, pop-up ....... all variables, but everything else being equal and if compression isn't through the roof, I'd take the 50cc chamber


That being said, if I had a 50cc chamber that had too much compression, I'd consider adding a few cc's to drop it some. 3 degrees isn't much, but it will help lower compression a little
I had a 460 that was 275lb that I opened the chamber to get to 200lb and was surprised how much needed removed to get it down
 

Moparmyway

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Volume is volume ain't it?
Allmost .........
1. I'd rather open the chamber and leave a tight squish.

2. I'd rather taper the squish at 3 degrees than cut the whole band to lose compression

3. I'm just a part time booger flickin cylinder destroyer, I'm hoping that I've not embarrassed myself by posting a bunch of babbling stench filled hooey
 
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jmssaws

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What I mean is,do you think a larger chamber not squish or a more narrow band affects performance?
 
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