Saw video thread

[huskyboy]

And I'll correct myself -- it's the "Maxflow" filter to try. No cover... just bolt on the foam and give her a go.
I'll give this a shot w/ my hybrid next time I have it out.

Maybe I'll hit the sugarbush over the break and do some testing.

I think removing the cover helps to keep filter cleaner longer but ya can’t use it in the rain or snowing conditions . I think the max flo would be nice with the cover it comes with, best all around setup for a worksaw perhaps?

 

[RI Chevy]

I was just guessing that a 24 wouldn’t get through that log. Next step was a 28

How much does one take off the key to spin a 28 on a 261cm???

 

[huskyboy]

Eric’s hybrid is quite the hybrid. Doc ported it. I ran it a while back. 25” 8 pin.

 

[huskihl]

How much does one take off the key to spin a 28 on a 261cm???

If you’ve got something to say, don’t beat around your mama’s bush. Come out and say it

261 key is cast into the flywheel. I advance them about 6-8*

 

[RI Chevy]

I have no idea Kevin. I run them. I don't build them.
Simma down now big guy..
It's all good...
AND leave my mother out of it...

 

[huskihl]

I have no idea Kevin. I run them. I don't build them.
Simma down now big guy..
It's all good...
AND leave my mother out of it...

Just seemed like a cheap shot to me.

I spend 10-12 hours on a saw trying to make something that’s powerful, clean-looking, and will stand the test of time and it’s insinuated that the power all comes from a healthy timing advance

 

[TreeLife]

Just seemed like a cheap shot to me.

I spend 10-12 hours on a saw trying to make something that’s powerful, clean-looking, and will stand the test of time and it’s insinuated that the power all comes from a healthy timing advance

I dont think that's what jeff was insinuating at all, Kevin. We all know you do excellent work and are turning out good product.

 

[mdavlee]

Just seemed like a cheap shot to me.

I spend 10-12 hours on a saw trying to make something that’s powerful, clean-looking, and will stand the test of time and it’s insinuated that the power all comes from a healthy timing advance

You find any gains retarding timing yet? [emoji6]

 

[RI Chevy]

Kevin. I've been saying you have been pumping out good work for a long time. You took it the wrong way.
Keep doing what you're doing. [emoji106]

 

[huskihl]

You find any gains retarding timing yet? [emoji6]

Nope lol

 

[malk315]

Eric’s hybrid is quite the hybrid. Doc ported it. I ran it a while back. 25” 8 pin.

She's not even broken in yet. Gotta get a few more tanks through.
We used it at a land clearing job in November and really enjoyed dropping and bucking a few nice oaks with her... Pulls with authority. In that case was running Stihl lightweight bar 28" with 7 pin and LGX oregon chain. I tried to use RS but I am much happier with a freshly filed LGX loop and I'll be sticking w/ that

 

[mdavlee]

Nope lol

Every now and then it’s there. The real high rpm saws advance fights itself. One had a head and much more efficient chamber too. That might have helped a lot

 

[huskihl]

Every now and then it’s there. The real high rpm saws advance fights itself. One had a head and much more efficient chamber too. That might have helped a lot

I’ve heard it mentioned before. I could definitely see it fighting itself on a really high rpm saw. Most of the stuff I do is geared between spicy and torquey. I don’t venture into the race market much

 

[RI Chevy]

I think work saws are much more useful to general population.
But I see where race saws are needed too...[emoji106]

 

[huskyboy]

On the subject of timing advance, a saw popping in the cut with too much advance is like nails on a chalkboard to me. Makes me cringe . I’ve had to dial back the timing advance some other people did to saws I’ve had go thru here to fix. I don’t say anything, you just learn what not to do lol. I was conservative with the 440 (about .018 off the key) because I didn’t want it kicking the pull cord. Which is annoying on a worksaw, wears on you and the starter after a while.

 

[huskihl]

On the subject of timing advance, a saw popping in the cut with too much advance is like nails on a chalkboard to me. Makes me cringe . I’ve had to dial back the timing advance some other people did to saws I’ve had go thru here to fix. I don’t say anything, you just learn what not to do lol. I was conservative with the 440 (about .018 off the key) because I didn’t want it kicking the pull cord. Which is annoying on a worksaw, wears on you and the starter after a while.

Some kick the pull cord, some don’t. Some quit popping under load or with a leaner tune. Some will pop even leaned out to where there is a bog from idle. It’s a fine line between getting some added performance and going a bit too far.

 

[huskyboy]

Some kick the pull cord, some don’t. Some quit popping under load or with a leaner tune. Some will pop even leaned out to where there is a bog from idle. It’s a fine line between getting some added performance and going a bit too far.

I’m cool with sacrificing a little on the table in trade for use ability on a worksaw

 

[huskihl]

I’m cool with sacrificing a little on the table in trade for use ability on a worksaw

Definitely.

 

[sawmikaze]

If you’ve got something to say, don’t beat around your mama’s bush. Come out and say it

261 key is cast into the flywheel. I advance them about 6-8*

Mama's Bush..lol..I raffed at that one.

 

[Wonkydonkey]

I'm gonna poast, my err44 build testing cuts vids here. the thing with this saw i found is the adv on the key way 20 or 30 thou, you can decide
Yes it’s an 18” duromatic bar with an Oregon 3/8 that has the rakers set a tad below the soft wood setting. Umm I’m Cutting hard wood .
And yes nails were found in the first vid.

After a sharpen and a change in key (30thou) no change in rakers, same wood.. just up a bit higher. I was holding on tight ,, and no more nails