Saw Chain Sharper Question

[AVB]

I am looking at replacing the crappy HF saw chain grinder with possibly the Oregon 410-120. Just wondering what some the users opinions are about the Oregon unit. I still prefer hand sharping but severely damaged chains still need more time than I am able to give plus I recently ran a customer with cutters so hard that went thru 5 files cleaning up 8 chains. The HF unit helped but is way too sloppy after a year of use.

 

[Ryan Browne]

Look at the ones branded tecomec. They're the same as Oregon, but cheaper. I got a super jolly (oregon 620) under $300 shipped from Maverick Mower Supply. It's been great.

 

[AVB]

Okay. I currently can get the Oregon 410-120 for $160 from my Oregon distributor so it probably be the way to go. I like the idea being able to do the depth gauges too. Kinda more interested in grinder after those extra hard chains left blisters behind.

 

[Philbert]

There used to be a saying at the woodworking stores: ‘Buy your third router first’. In other words, guys often buy a couple of compromises before getting what they really want, and end up spending more money overall.

eBay seller ‘’ArcherPlus’ is the US Tecomec distributor, and sells the basic, full sized, full power (look at the motor specs), grinder for $210 shipped. Only lacks the 'down tilt' feature and does not have a light.

EDIT: Shows currently 'Out of stock', but contact them and they will let you know when they are back again. Very easy to deal with.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecomec-Co...rpener-compare-to-Oregon-520-120/383293681932

You were not happy with the under powered HF grinder, so don’t make that mistake again.

Philbert

 

[AVB]

It wasn't the under power that is my problem is the sloppiest of the adjustments and chain clamping. I done cut into the cutter stop on both sides so it isn't even stopping the cutters correctly. It has too much side to side play. Plus clamp doesn't even hold the cutters steady as it should. I done shimmed it trying to correct the problem. As I sharpen the cutters rack up as go into the gullet leading to a dubbed cutter.

But the motor power it seems fine as I know it should slow somewhat depending how aggressive I pull down, just keeps me from burning cutters.

And yes I know I need to spend more but the shop's budget is extremely tight this year as everyone has been cutting back on repairs and the vendors are raising their prices. To be honest I am currently in the red as I was depending on that promised $1200 from the Feds which has never showed up and probably won't even show up though they says I am qualified for it. I had purchased stock base on it being here as promised but that is now mute. Right now tires for my truck is more important and I having to borrow the money to pay for them.

 

[deye223]

There used to be a saying at the woodworking stores: ‘Buy your third router first’. In other words, guys often buy a couple of compromises before getting what they really want .

Philbert

Hmmm applies to rifles scopes and fishing gear as well .... and everything for that matter .

 

[AVB]

I do agree quality matters. As my last open face reel I went with a light weight saltwater reel for fresh water fishing as most of the ones I had brought before were failing on those 10 lb+ fish that hung into.

I wish to say thank you to those that responded. At least I know I am on the right track now. As I said the budget is extremely tight at this time but I do need to replace that HF unit with any thing that better. Supposedly the Oregon unit that I am looking does have the down tilt feature and include 3 stones and few other items like dressing stone that would be nice to have. After 40 yrs of hand sharpening some of the newer chains are simply getting too hard to file by hand or at least that what my new Pferd files are indicating.

I going to go ahead and order the 410-120 grinder and see if that hold me next year until the budget gets better.

 

[Philbert]

Maybe start a separate thread reviewing that grinder, for the benefit of others? It is a model that tends to get skipped over. Thanks.

Philbert

 

[AVB]

Okay now that I got the Oregon 410 grinder I wondering if there is simple way of reducing the burring of the left hand cutters. I didn't have this problem with the HF unit. It seems like the Oregon is just running too fast and I wondering if I can add a variable speed controller like the ones used on fixed speed routers.

As the sharpness the Oregon grinds seems to be a lot sharper than the HF, probably because the HF dubbed the cutters due to rocking of the cutters. Just the LH cutter burring seems to be a problem.

 

[Philbert]

The burr will leave the chain after a nano-second in the wood. There is a coarser wheel on your new grinder too, which grinds better.

If the burr really bothers you, scrape it off with a tool, then go back and lightly touch the cutter once again with the grinding wheel.

Philbert

 

[AVB]

Well it just doesn't look very professional to return something like what I saw on that 3/8 LP Oregon chain to the customer. I scrape off the burrs but it wasn't as easy as those my hand files leaves behind.

Normally I sharping chains that are not on a saw using in house reclaimed bars so I try to scrape off the burrs and retouching. As I said it not very professional to return chains with those burrs on them. They look like crap.

If it is a coarse wheel that causing it is there a finer one available in the 5 3/4 X 1/8 X 7/8 and 5 3/4 X 3/16 X 7/8 sizes?

 

[Philbert]

There are finer wheels, but they are hard to find in the US (Google ‘Tecomec Forestry Products’).

Some guys purchase the Maxx grinder, which lets you grind both sides from ‘the outside-in’.

Philbert

 

[chiselbit]

My chain grinding is all chisel on a simington grinder so take this with a grain of salt, but when I find myself burning a tooth or creating a burr it’s usually due to these 3 things or a combination of them. 1. The tooth was badly mangled by a nail or something hard.
2. I didn’t clean all the oil and gunk off the chain and the grinding wheel is now dirty
3. The grinding wheel isn’t sharp and needs to be dressed.
You can add a 4th variable to these and that would be getting in a hurry and pushing too hard.
My sharpest chains come from a good clean sharp wheel. I either start the saw and run it through a dry softwood log a few times before pulling the chain off or if I’m doing a bunch of chains I’ll soak them in a bucket of hot water and dish soap. Tie a cord or wire (works best)around the middle of the chains so they don’t tie themselves into a fornicating ball of snakes knot and give them some vigorous shakes every time I walk by the bucket while I’m doing other things like cleaning air filters. Then rinse them off with the garden hose and hang them to dry. I’ll use a leaf blower to hurry that process up if I don’t have time.

 

[AVB]

Apparently it was the particular Oregon 90 (on dl) chain I did as I just got through doing a known Timber Ridge 3/8 lp .050 chain and the burrs were tissue thin and easily flaked off. So I thinking it was just a fluke on that particular chain.

I will need to let the customer know has the wrong chain for his Poulan as that is a .043 ga and the Poulan uses a .050 ga chain or at least that he brought in with his Poulan. Maybe he got a Stihl or pole saw I don't know about yet.

Sorry for being a pest. At least I doing this learning during my off season so have time to get things straight before the Spring storm season here.

 

[Pincher]

Disclaimer-attempt at your own risk.
When sharpening lh cutters, I will spin the motor backwards by means of a blowgun to the motor cooling fan before turning the switch on. This will result in reverse rotation and no burrs on LH cutters. The down side is the sparks and dust are directed towards the operator.

 

[deye223]

Just another reason why I file chains

 

[AVB]

Just another reason why I file chains

I prefer hand filing myself but some cutters are just too hard at times plus my right shoulder is now limiting how long I can fight with a chain even though I am left handed. Boy getting old isn't for sissies.

I think I just ran into a bad chain right off the bat as the chrome plating seems to have been the problem as I was not only getting burrs on the side cutters but the top plates too. I got a third 3/8 lp chain to test with today it is a completely worn out so it is no lost if I damage it as I am replacing that chain on the customer's Echo today after I get the carburetor straighten out. It is an unknown brand, no logo on the tie straps. After I do 15-20 chains I get a better idea of what to do.

Strange that fuel pump flaps failed after just a year and a half but I am installing another RB-43 kit in that Zama C3 cube and re-tune. Hoping it is not the coil failing too.

 

[Philbert]

Just another reason why I file chains

I defile chains. That’s why I grind them!

Philbert

 

[huskihl]

I was a hard-core filer for years. But once I bought even that cheap $80 clone eBay grinder, I was hooked. Just for the consistency

 

[Philbert]

I was a hard-core filer for years. But once I bought even that cheap $80 clone eBay grinder, I was hooked. Just for the consistency

No reason you can't do both!

I have stated for many years that you can file in the field and grind back at home, as long as you 'grind as you file and file as you grind'.

Philbert