Saw builds

[Iron.and.bark]

Nice description brewz. Many ways to do things.

I heat one case half. Put bearing on finger and align exactly with case. Let sit, bearing soaks up case heat. Drop crank into bearing. Fit the gasket. Heat other case side. Bearing on finger again. Wait for heat soak and drop case half onto the other.

Pretty simple and precise. If the bearing isn't where I want it, don't have to remove from crank.

 

[Brewz]

Nice description brewz. Many ways to do things.

I heat one case half. Put bearing on finger and align exactly with case. Let sit, bearing soaks up case heat. Drop crank into bearing. Fit the gasket. Heat other case side. Bearing on finger again. Wait for heat soak and drop case half onto the other.

Pretty simple and precise. If the bearing isn't where I want it, don't have to remove from crank.

Which case half do you start with?

 

[Brewz]

Nice description brewz. Many ways to do things.

I heat one case half. Put bearing on finger and align exactly with case. Let sit, bearing soaks up case heat. Drop crank into bearing. Fit the gasket. Heat other case side. Bearing on finger again. Wait for heat soak and drop case half onto the other.

Pretty simple and precise. If the bearing isn't where I want it, don't have to remove from crank.

Also, how do you heat the case half and how hot do you get it?

This stuff really interests me.......... I am process driven and logical minded so please excuse my need for information.

I cant help it

 

[Time's Standing Stihl]

Nice description brewz. Many ways to do things.

I heat one case half. Put bearing on finger and align exactly with case. Let sit, bearing soaks up case heat. Drop crank into bearing. Fit the gasket. Heat other case side. Bearing on finger again. Wait for heat soak and drop case half onto the other.

Pretty simple and precise. If the bearing isn't where I want it, don't have to remove from crank.

Exactly how I do it. I Always start on clutch side since it has more material to heat up

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Which case half do you start with?

Flywheel side is what I do.

I like this method because I don't have to apply any direct heat to the bearings

I use a heat gun and drop a little water onto it to see if it sizzles.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

I use the flywheel side because I can use bolts with the head cut off to perfectly allign case gasket. Also act as a guide when fitting case halves together.

 

[Brewz]

I use the flywheel side because I can use bolts with the head cut off to perfectly allign case gasket. Also act as a guide when fitting case halves together.

Do you put the locating pins in after the case halves are tensioned down?

I fit the pins first and they tend to stop the case halves seating nice and flush together before it all cools and grips.

I like the idea of the cut off bolts as locators.

 

[Iron.and.bark]

Yes they are in.

Can also cut a slit for a flat head screwdriver in the top of cut off bolts.

 

[Brewz]

I seat the locating pins (on a stihl) just high enough to hold the gasket in place but low enough to allow the case halves to come together easily without needing to be hit etc, which is only bad for the bearings

 

[jmssaws]

Always do the flywheel side first because you can lay it flat with the crank in and the bolts come through from the pto side.

I use the oil pump to set the bearing for the proper seal depth and to help Center the crank. As I said before,most every one is tight after assembly but a light smack frees up things nicely and as I said before,I didn't assemble it,I got it this way and other than heat the hell out of it with new seals installed in tried everything to free it up but it remained snug.
I ran it all morning and it's fine now.

I see no special order things need to be done but I'm sure most will install the flywheelside first simplybecause it's easier.

I've probably split a 100 or more and never had one like it that I had to run to free up. *s-word happens and it's fine now.

A saw rotating assembly is barely balanced and has a couple pins to align it and a million different cases that can't be all the same so it seems were trying to build a Swiss watch from a dollar store digital. It is only as difficult as we want it to be.

 

[PA Dan]

Always do the flywheel side first because you can lay it flat with the crank in and the bolts come through from the pto side.

I use the oil pump to set the bearing for the proper seal depth and to help Center the crank. As I said before,most every one is tight after assembly but a light smack frees up things nicely and as I said before,I didn't assemble it,I got it this way and other than heat the hell out of it with new seals installed in tried everything to free it up but it remained snug.
I ran it all morning and it's fine now.

I see no special order things need to be done but I'm sure most will install the flywheelside first simplybecause it's easier.

I've probably split a 100 or more and never had one like it that I had to run to free up. *s-word happens and it's fine now.

A saw rotating assembly is barely balanced and has a couple pins to align it and a million different cases that can't be all the same so it seems were trying to build a Swiss watch from a dollar store digital. It is only as difficult as we want it to be.

Well said J!

 

[mdavlee]

375-400° F is what I do for 30 minutes for the halves. The bearings will fall in by hand pressure. Then put a heat gun on the bearings if it has steel races. The crank will usually fall into the flywheel side by hand. Then put the bearing in the pto side and heat gun it for a minute and then they'll slide together by hand usually to the alignment pins. Sometimes they even go all the way together by hand if I'm quick enough

 

[jmssaws]

375-400° F is what I do for 30 minutes for the halves. The bearings will fall in by hand pressure. Then put a heat gun on the bearings if it has steel races. The crank will usually fall into the flywheel side by hand. Then put the bearing in the pto side and heat gun it for a minute and then they'll slide together by hand usually to the alignment pins. Sometimes they even go all the way together by hand if I'm quick enough

Same here,I almost always can put them together by hand unless the pins hold it.

I've said it before,if you are having to pull it or press it together your not getting it hot enough.

I always put the bearings in the case first.

 

[junkman]

I drive em in cold holding a socket upside down for a driver ,barbaric but it works .

 

[Brewz]

Wasn't having a go at you jay, just interested in methods.

I will try putting the bearings in the housings first next time for sure!
It makes sense!

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I've said it before,if you are having to pull it or press it together your not getting it hot enough.

That's what she says!

Is that twice in the same thread that you hung a meatball like that?

 

[jmssaws]

I drive em in cold holding a socket upside down for a driver ,barbaric but it works .

I've done lots that way until I got a heat gun.
Heat the cases and put the bearings in the freezer and it falls together.
Crank in the freezer to.

 

[jmssaws]

Wasn't having a go at you jay, just interested in methods.

I will try putting the bearings in the housings first next time for sure!
It makes sense!

Never thought you were.
Lots of ways to get the same results.

 

[jmssaws]

I beat this saw hard this evening and it's loosened up nicely. Sounds like a saw with a exhaust in the low 90's but it's 102.5

 

[Deets066]

I've done lots that way until I got a heat gun.
Heat the cases and put the bearings in the freezer and it falls together.
Crank in the freezer to.

Yup, bearings in the freezer, I've heated the case with a propane torch. Just gotta hold it back a ways.