ROUND Grinders only

[HighSierras]

Yep. Sandvik Windsor. Those older bars and chains from them are excellent, in my experience. I had a bar and three chains that just kept going and going.

 

[Stump Shot]

For chisel chain I've been liking the 60-25-10 settings, for semi-chisel I use 55-35-0, the one thing it took me years to learn on my own trying everything I could to get a chain to cut and failing, was the one thing I was not paying attention to - the gullet. When I finally took the gullet down to the flat between tooth and raker did I have a nice fast cutting chain, no matter how it's sharpened. For grins here's a picture of my grinding set up, a Tecomec FL 136 for the toofs, and a Forester for the raker. I made it moveable for time being, I use it outside when it's nice weather, inside when not. Not what I would prefer but it works. No end to how these things can be mounted I see.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

For chisel chain I've been liking the 60-25-10 settings, for semi-chisel I use 55-35-0, the one thing it took me years to learn on my own trying everything I could to get a chain to cut and failing, was the one thing I was not paying attention to - the gullet. When I finally took the gullet down to the flat between tooth and raker did I have a nice fast cutting chain, no matter how it's sharpened. For grins here's a picture of my grinding set up, a Tecomec FL 136 for the toofs, and a Forester for the raker. I made it moveable for time being, I use it outside when it's nice weather, inside when not. Not what I would prefer but it works. No end to how these things can be mounted I see.

View attachment 26686

Not only do you have to sever fiber, you have to move the material out of the cut. Clearing the gullet allows that.

 

[Tpagel]

I have an Efco 136 on the way from a member and have been reading up on this thread.
Thank you guys for all the info.
Is Bailley's about the best source for wheels?
The one I'm getting looks set up with an angle grinder wheel. (rakers?)
I am not going to spring for CBN; so pink wheels for me.
I have been around the web and it seems that pricing is $15-25 each?

 

[Philbert]

Pink wheels work fine.

Bailey's MoleMab wheels about $14. About $11 on sale. See what comes with your grinder first. Pick up extras to have when you need them, or when you place another order to dilute the shipping costs.

Make sure you have a dressing brick, either from Bailey's, or from a local hardware store / home center.

Philbert

 

[Shawn Curry]

Why am i not getting enough hook? The angles are 55/25/10

Did the right hand cutters come out any better? If they look different, I suspect your chain is not centered in the chain vise.

I'm considering a 2nd grinder myself, so I can set one up for 3/8 and the other for 404. I used to do all my chains by hand + Granberg/Stihl FG2, and then I started to get into milling. It would take me a whole afternoon to sharpen three 36" chains by hand; and I'd rather be cutting.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

No need in different 3/8 and .404 grinder as its the same stone. Maybe one for picco/.325 and 3/8&.404

 

[Canadian farm boy]

This is true.
I use an 1/8" CBN wheel for .325 and smaller.
I use an 3/16 CBN wheel for 3/8 and bigger.

 

[lwhaples]

Read the whole 9 pages only to learn I've been doing it all wrong. Played with some chain today.Great place to learn.

 

[Philbert]

What was the key thing(s) that you discovered?

Philbert

 

[KenJax Tree]

Did the right hand cutters come out any better? If they look different, I suspect your chain is not centered in the chain vise.

I'm considering a 2nd grinder myself, so I can set one up for 3/8 and the other for 404. I used to do all my chains by hand + Granberg/Stihl FG2, and then I started to get into milling. It would take me a whole afternoon to sharpen three 36" chains by hand; and I'd rather be cutting.

View attachment 28162

I never messed with it any more. I sold the grinder to Jimmy in NC and do all my chain with a file.

 

[lwhaples]

What was the key thing(s) that you discovered?

Philbert

First I now use a cleaning stone.Also do the gullet THEN the top of the cutter.

 

[Philbert]

My standard position is still:
"Lots of ways to sharpen a chain; everyone has to find something that works for them".

I have tried and used a number of different sharpening systems, file guides, etc. Most of them will work IF: the user understands how they work; what the finished cutter is supposed to look like; and the limitations of each device, guide, etc.

Having said that, last night I set up my 511A and cleaned up a bunch of chains that had been hand filed in the field, by a bunch of different users. Angles and cutter lengths all over the place. Cleaned them up really nice, evened out the cutters, cleaned out the gullets, and adjusted the depth gauges. Not saying that skilled users cannot do this with just a file, but I really like my grinder for doing this, and for reconditioning damaged chains. Simple, consistent, uniform cutters. Only had to 'kiss' the cutters on a few chains, taking off no more than a file.

Philbert

Different strokes for different folks . . .

 

[Locust Cutter]

I'm surprised that no one mentioned the Italian Maxx grinder yet with it's "auto-clamp" feature. I know Sunfish has one and likes it and that's what I'm leaning towards if I don't go square. Then again I may do it and a Simington eventually. Does anyone here, besides Sunfish know if the Maxx allows for adjustment on all three axis? I would like to be able to play with the down angle too. I love the art of hand filing and can make a decent chain, but like others mentioned, my cutting time can be limited so I try to cut as much as possible in that time (make hay while 'ya got sunshine). In that vein I normally have 2-3 saws with my Dad and I when we cut and several loops for each, as needed to simply swap out and go, saving the sharpening for back at the barn. the 16" loops aren't horrible, but when you've got 1-3 loops of 16", 2-5 loops of 20 and few loops of either 28" or 36" (all 3/8") to sharpen, that make for a long day and sore fingers.

 

[psuiewalsh]

See post #14. I have it an a square grinder. I use for some round grinds and to clean out gullets and raker heights. I changed the guard screws to socket cap screws.

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[Locust Cutter]

I missed that one. Thanks!

 

[jb-chainsaws]

For those of you that have the Stihl USG I have a couple of questions.

First, do you find that your right and left hand cutters come out different lengths if using the same setting? Is there any way to centre the vise like on the Oregon grinders?

Secondly, what are your preferred grinding angles? As I know they differ massively from Oregon angles

 

[Stump Shot]

Not sure if Stihl made a self centering vice like Tecomec/Oregon or not. While on the subject though, older Tecomec/Oregon grinders should be able to update with the newer self centering vice. I plan to do this to mine, as I have to reset when switching sides, usually measuring teeth with a caliper to get them close. Sorry this does not help you JB with your question, but may help someone else.

 

[Tpagel]

How am I doing I'm at 60 25 10 on Oregon safety chain?


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[Sty57]

For those of you that have the Stihl USG I have a couple of questions.

First, do you find that your right and left hand cutters come out different lengths if using the same setting? Is there any way to centre the vise like on the Oregon grinders?

Secondly, what are your preferred grinding angles? As I know they differ massively from Oregon angles

Not sure if Stihl made a self centering vice like Tecomec/Oregon or not. While on the subject though, older Tecomec/Oregon grinders should be able to update with the newer self centering vice. I plan to do this to mine, as I have to reset when switching sides, usually measuring teeth with a caliper to get them close. Sorry this does not help you JB with your question, but may help someone else.

I have the same problems sometimes, when the left and right don't come out the same.
How do you center the vice so it stays the same after you swing it to the other side?