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Redlinefever husky 394 build

redlinefever

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20 BD
80 Intake
More compression isnt allways better, if I wasnt at 240# now, I'd pull 0.005 more off the base and call it 99/119/80.5

I might just do a little more spinning and take off the 0.005 anyway .................................. ;)
I'm going to go with .020 for squish and if I was a little high with comp thought of raising the exh a degree or more to bleed of some
 

srcarr52

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Just checked, 98/116/80 with I want to say .023 squish. @srcarr52 cut base and squish and raised the transfers for me. I did the exhaust and intake work with his guidance. Compression came in at 210 psi after initial assembly.

I think you're a little off on the transfers, they should have landed at 117 with .020" squish, probably error from the wheel and port chamfer. I measure the port heights from the squish band and calculate the crank angle so they are always spot on.

I've built some mean 394's with pop ups and exhaust timing around 101 or flat tops with exhaust at 99. I shoot for 18-20 blow down and leave the intake below 80.
 

redlinefever

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I think you're a little off on the transfers, they should have landed at 117 with .020" squish, probably error from the wheel and port chamfer. I measure the port heights from the squish band and calculate the crank angle so they are always spot on.

I've built some mean 394's with pop ups and exhaust timing around 101 or flat tops with exhaust at 99. I shoot for 18-20 blow down and leave the intake below 80.
Care to elaborate on that I was going to do it kind of hillbilly way with dykeem and a pick on the transfers
 

srcarr52

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Care to elaborate on that I was going to do it kind of hillbilly way with dykeem and a pick on the transfers

I use the depth side of a dial caliper, I know the port height I want so I just measure occasionally while grinding until I get there.

On a 394 trans 0.005" is about 0.5 deg of opening, 1.0 deg of duration. So it doesn't take much to get off your target.
 

RIDE-RED 350r

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I think you're a little off on the transfers, they should have landed at 117 with .020" squish, probably error from the wheel and port chamfer. I measure the port heights from the squish band and calculate the crank angle so they are always spot on.

I've built some mean 394's with pop ups and exhaust timing around 101 or flat tops with exhaust at 99. I shoot for 18-20 blow down and leave the intake below 80.
I'm sure you are spot on Shaun. I use the wheel and eyeball method, definitely subject to a margin of error compared to your method. I'll correct my notes.
 

redlinefever

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I use the depth side of a dial caliper, I know the port height I want so I just measure occasionally while grinding until I get there.

On a 394 trans 0.005" is about 0.5 deg of opening, 1.0 deg of duration. So it doesn't take much to get off your target.
Thanks that would make it easier to do
 

huskyboy

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I think you're a little off on the transfers, they should have landed at 117 with .020" squish, probably error from the wheel and port chamfer. I measure the port heights from the squish band and calculate the crank angle so they are always spot on.

I've built some mean 394's with pop ups and exhaust timing around 101 or flat tops with exhaust at 99. I shoot for 18-20 blow down and leave the intake below 80.
Not a 394, but I have run one of your 395's. Incredible saw :)
 

redlinefever

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Does anyone no the part no. For the K&n filter that will fit this saw?
 

redlinefever

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The oem high top filters are relatively cheap on ebay last time I checked. One place the k&n is carried is madsens I believe.
Ok thanks I'm looking for a specific filter it's a cone shape I'll look at madsens
 

huskyboy

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Ok thanks I'm looking for a specific filter it's a cone shape I'll look at madsens
I think the one madsens sells fits under the hi top cover
 
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