High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

Purchased a bunch of Huskies

srcarr52

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I took the 550xp apart and I was searching for bearings that were a steel case replacement... I settled for a set of Timken bearings, 6202 2RS C3... stock bearings are 35mm 15mm 12mm single seal...
where as the Timken bearings are a double seal that measure35mm 15mm 11mm... I figured not a big deal 1mm difference... (12mm = .472" vs 11mm = .432") I'll just machine a spacer to go between the bearings and the case as well as a smaller spacer for the clutch side to keep the proper spacing.

I was wondering if anybody has done this? In theory, it should work just fine.

The OEM bearings will last a long time when running 40:1... 50:1 is the cause of most of their demise.

Great score btw!
 

Rich Fife

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The OEM bearings will last a long time when running 40:1... 50:1 is the cause of most of their demise.

Great score btw!
I was thinking with the reduced case volume (crank stuffers) the amount of lubricant getting to the bearings compared to a crank without the stuffers is an issue which is compounded with fuels 40-50:1...
 

Rich Fife

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I'm about to start the mock-up with Stihl bearings... should be interesting.

Has anyone disassembled a 550, 562, 572 and then reassembled without the crank stuffers to see how the Saw ran afterwards?
 

srcarr52

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I was thinking with the reduced case volume (crank stuffers) the amount of lubricant getting to the bearings compared to a crank without the stuffers is an issue which is compounded with fuels 40-50:1...

Yes, probably why they removed the crank stuffer cup on the 562 MK2.
 

Rich Fife

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If you have a friendly Husqy dealer, you could always see if they'd run a claim for you on the 550, especially if the computer shows little to no use.

Scary a saw that new and clean looking could have bad bearings.
This was a warranty claim in 2022. I was told that it took over a year the manufacturer to replace the saw. I've never dealt with warranty stuff with saws... I hear horror stories and then I hear smooth as glass stories... so all of my info is 2nd hand info at best
 

Tor R

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Great score, we all love a superb haul !

I took the 550xp apart and I was searching for bearings that were a steel case replacement... I settled for a set of Timken bearings, 6202 2RS C3... stock bearings are 35mm 15mm 12mm single seal...
where as the Timken bearings are a double seal that measure35mm 15mm 11mm... I figured not a big deal 1mm difference... (12mm = .472" vs 11mm = .432") I'll just machine a spacer to go between the bearings and the case as well as a smaller spacer for the clutch side to keep the proper spacing.

I was wondering if anybody has done this? In theory, it should work just fine.
No, you will have problems with 6202 bearings as you will not be able to install a quality sealing ring at all.

I think Husqvarna has thrown out SKF, nowadays the original 550 mk2 bearings are part number 536.78.98.01
 

Rich Fife

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Great score, we all love a superb haul !


No, you will have problems with 6202 bearings as you will not be able to install a quality sealing ring at all.

I think Husqvarna has thrown out SKF, nowadays the original 550 mk2 bearings are part number 536.78.98.01
Yeah, I came to that conclusion. Hence why I'm onto stihl bearings. Lol
 

Rich Fife

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If you zoom in, there is a gap... if I machine the bearing pocket lip/retainer .020" per side, that will allow the stihl bearing to pass through and I'd have to machine shims for correct spacing... BUT, one could easily convert it back to OEM bearings without any issues... OR.... I counter bore the pocket deeper by .035" - .040" on both sides and then simply run Stihl bearings and annotate near the pockets that OEM husky bearings won't work....

Which way would yall go?

Should I remove the crank stuffers to allow for more oil to get into the bearings?
 

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lehman live edge slab

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If you zoom in, there is a gap... if I machine the bearing pocket lip/retainer .020" per side, that will allow the stihl bearing to pass through and I'd have to machine shims for correct spacing... BUT, one could easily convert it back to OEM bearings without any issues... OR.... I counter bore the pocket deeper by .035" - .040" on both sides and then simply run Stihl bearings and annotate near the pockets that OEM husky bearings won't work....

Which way would yall go?

Should I remove the crank stuffers to allow for more oil to get into the bearings?

Honestly if your selling or trading the 550
I’d put it back stock or sell to someone as is so they can do it. Saws modified in ways they don’t need to be seem to loose value a fair bit. I can see changing the case of parts weren’t available but since they are id build back stock plastic cages and all.
 

Rich Fife

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If you’re machining for different bearings, you could machine it for a different crank as well. 550 stroker?
Right. I totally get that... buuuut, if I make shims and open the bearing retaining lip .020" per side, they can still swap out for stock bearingsnon the next rebuild. Lol.
 
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