PowerSharp Chains

[Philbert]

We have had some discussions on Oregon PowerSharp chain on other forums, and it was suggested that we start one here.

PowerSharp chain is based on the idea of sharpening the chain using the power of the saw to move the cutters past a fixed grinding stone, rather than removing the chain and mounting it on a powered grinder. A version was introduced a few decades back, and was informally referred to as 'barracuda chain' by users, due to its aggressively sharp teeth; it was available in a variety of pitches (1/4" to .404").

A totally new version was released several years back, only available in 3/8" low profile, .050 gauge chain. The two versions work on a similar concept, but are completely different and incompatible. Here are some links to manufacturer's info for the current system:

http://powersharp.com/default_flash.asp

https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/powersharp/powersharp_StarterKit.htm

http://powersharp.com/media/powersharpfaq.pdf

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

One striking difference between PowerSharp and conventional chain is the cutting bevel. Conventional cutters are sharpened by filing or grinding the bevel on the underside of the tooth; PowerSharp cutters are ground on the top of the tooth. This is confusing for some but the geometry of the cutter is changed, so that the resulting bevel angle cuts through the wood as it should.

(For woodworking guys, this can be thought of like the difference between block planes and smooth planes, where the plane iron/blade is mounted bevel up in one type, and bevel down in the other, but is bedded at different angles so that the final bevel cuts the wood grain).


The current PowerSharp system uses a curved grinding stone, designed to exactly match the radius of the guide bar nose (cassette version), or the drive sprocket (built-in versions); it sharpens the cutters and adjusts the depth gauges in the same pass.



One chain link embedded with diamond grit continuously dresses the stone.


(Oregon photos)

To assure compatibility, the starter kit includes a radius matched guide bar, a sharpening cassette, a chain, and a sharpening stone. When the chain is used up, the chain and stone are replaced as a set.

Philbert

 

[Locust Cutter]

I could see it for a "crappy job" small saw, but that's about it...

 

[Philbert]

Oregon's marketing mantra has been: On the Saw, On the Job, In Seconds

They introduced the new version with videos like the one below, and live demonstrations which showed them intentionally dulling the PowerSharp, and a conventional, chain against a cinder block, then showing how long it took to bring each one 'back' to acceptable cutting performance:

Unfortunately, I think that some people interpreted that this meant it was 'OK' to grind their PowerSharp chains into dirt, and rocks, etc., and that it was not for normal use. Others assumed that it was 'homeowner' chain for guys that did not know how to sharpen 'real' chain.

I had used the earlier 'barracuda' version on a Craftsman saw, and was offered to opportunity to try the new version several years back. I was skeptical, but not cynical, and have since run it on 7+ saws running 3/8 low profile chains. It cuts aggressively due to its unique, chisel tooth profile, and out-cut several other, new-out-of-the-box Oregon chains that I compared it to side-by-side, in the same wood, with the same saw. I posted extensively on this on another forum, and will not copy all of it here, but will post a few examples for reference.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

I could see it for a "crappy job" small saw, but that's about it...

Common comment from guys who have not personally tried it. We even had a couple of Oregon reps come out to a GTG, where some guys turned their noses up at the chance to try samples. I have personally used it, and currently have it mounted on several saws that use compatible chain, including 2 electric, and 2 battery powered saws (some with the built-in sharpener). I can file. I can grind. I own many types of file guides and grinders. But these are my 'low maintenance / low fuss saws'. Plug 'em in. Pull the trigger. Cut. If the chain feels dull, I pull the lever (or push the cassette for 5 - 7 seconds) and go back to cutting.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Sample Cuts

Blowdown clean up using PowerSharp chains on corded electric and battery powered saws:




Chips!


Noodles!


Philbert

 

[Cutforfun]

I have one and it has its place, I use it on my ms170 when the weather gets bad or I am going wheeling in the snow. I like the idea of not having to file a chain if I hit a rock or the pavement. It has came in handy more than once for removing fallen trees across the road. That being said, I don't use it if I am cutting fire wood, it seams to be a rougher cut.

 

[Locust Cutter]

I wasn't implying that it was a bad design, or sub-par chain Philbert and I have tried one on a MS250. I just don't like the feel in Oak and Hedge and prefer the edge and cutting feel that I get from filing (and soon to be grinding) conventional semi and full chisel chains. I will likely have a Powersharp setup before too long, for odds and ends which are abrasive and/or inhospitable to the chains I prefer, hence my comment. I could easily see a M180-250 or Husky 450 with one for my particular usage in mind.

 

[Philbert]

'Old School' PowerSharp (a.k.a. 'Barracuda chain')



Just for comparison. These also happen to be 3/8" low profile chains.

Philbert

 

[Wilhelm]

! Pictures are uncompressed 4MP and about 1.3MB each !​

Oregon PowerSharp , 3/8" LowProfile .050" 52DL , the test log was oak

This chain is indeed quite grabby, but by no means unpleasant in larger diameter wood.
My 40cc saw seemed a little bit underpowered for this chain, oddly enough Oregon advertises PowerSharp specifically for low power saws.
My best guess would be to use this chain on a PH with more cc's/HP, smaller diameter hardwood, or softer wood types as oak seemed to fight the chain and saw quite a bit.
I would love to get this chain on my large mount 64/79cc's, could be an interesting combination!

Cutter geometry and grinding stone dressing link:


Weight:


Resulting chips, factory new loop not been sharpened yet:


The kerf PowerSharp makes, factory new loop not been sharpened yet:

 

[cobey]

I would like to try it on one of my little echos or my little 40 cc poulans.
It could help get work done on quick jobs
When you don't want to think if you have sharpened this saw lately. I have several
Customers it would be great for

 

[jakethesnake]

I'd imagine they would be good for lots of people. I've not seen anyone around here use one Where I live not many people know how to sharpen a chain

 

[CR888]

What I like about 'powrsharp' chain is the idea of new concept with engineers trying to take a fresh look at chain design. Traditional chain design among the producers has not evolved much in decades, I admire what Powersharp has done. Probably more than 9/10 homeowner user cannot file a chain properly, this is a big user problem that is addressed with Powersharp. Chain is expensive in my part if the world, so often 'value' to me is equal to performance when purchasing chain, I often choose chain designs with long cutters like Carlton N1, VXL etc. Powersharp appears to have little sharpening meat on their cutters which stands out to me but how that translates to cutting life I am not sure.

 

[Big_6]

Sample Cuts

Blowdown clean up using PowerSharp chains on corded electric and battery powered saws:
View attachment 49025

View attachment 49026

Chips!
View attachment 49028

Noodles!
View attachment 49027

Philbert

Is the corded saw
110 or 220?

I'd imagine they would be good for lots of people. I've not seen anyone around here use one Where I live not many people know how to sharpen a chain

 

[Philbert]

Is the corded saw 110 or 220?

That saw is a Makita UC 4000 - 12A, 120V. The current model is UC 4015A, which I believe is 15A
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/UC4051A

I also have the Oregon CS1500, which is 15A, 120V, and has the PowerSharp chain and sharpening lever built in.
https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/corded/CS1500.htm

Philbert

 

[Big_6]

How is the tooth profile on plunge cuts?

 

[Philbert]

Good question. I have used mine extensively for limbing, bucking, and noodling. I can't recall if I ever tried to bore cut with it.

Anyone?

Philbert

 

[chainsawlady]

Good question. I have used mine extensively for limbing, bucking, and noodling. I can't recall if I ever tried to bore cut with it.

Anyone?

Philbert

I have the original barracuda chain by Oregon #84,85,87. .404 and 325 .050 - .063. for sale.
chainsawlady

 

[Sierrawoodsman]

'Old School' PowerSharp (a.k.a. 'Barracuda chain')

View attachment 49033 View attachment 49034 View attachment 49035

Just for comparison. These also happen to be 3/8" low profile chains.

Philbert

I've never seen these chains in person, but As I look at these cutter designs I can't help but think that the engineers that designed this chain stole the idea from the "self_sharpening" incisor teeth of a Rat!

Thanks for the pictures Philbert



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[Definitive Dave]

did somebody say barracuda tooth?