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Porting The NE346XP

MustangMike

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Yes and made a few cuts with it awhile ago. Strong!! I have something funky with the 199 carb or a air leak because it doesnt want to return to idle very quickly off high rpm and turns the chain sometimes off idle. Ill stick the stock carb on in the mornin to isolate a carb problem or if that doesnt fix it Ill hunt the air leak. Got a rebuild kit if its the 199 carb actin funky

Keith, try playing with the low and idle screws a bit, 044#1 was doing something similar, and I was able to "adjust it out", but it took several tries to find the right combo between the two screws. I believe I ended up opening the idle screw more, and closing the low a bit. I had to mess with it a bunch of times to get it right, and it is an OEM carb (rebuilt). The timing change and base gasket delete just changed what the saw wanted.
 

Keith Gandy

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Keith, try playing with the low and idle screws a bit, 044#1 was doing something similar, and I was able to "adjust it out", but it took several tries to find the right combo between the two screws. I believe I ended up opening the idle screw more, and closing the low a bit. I had to mess with it a bunch of times to get it right, and it is an OEM carb (rebuilt). The timing change and base gasket delete just changed what the saw wanted.
Im gonna swap back to the stock carb and see it it does it
 

Rob Stafari

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I'm not smart or nothing like these other gents, but I happened to read this in another thread right after reading about your issues and didn't know if it applied and you were privy to said info...


Simon, that carb is supposed to be a direct bolt-in replacement to the Walbro carbs.

Husky apparently couldn't figure out what Treemonkey found to be the issue with the Walbro carbs, so they just swapped the Zama carbs in. And that is to buy a Walbro k24-hda kit and rebuild the carb. One of the diaphragms was made out of a material that would cause the saw to run erratic. The kit I mention uses a different material for that diaphragm that addresses the issue. He (Treemonkey) also recommends drilling a 1/8" vent hole in the metering diaphragm cover. I experienced the problem with my 199 and did the carb kit and drilled the cover, no problems since.

Don't junk your 198 without first trying the kit and cover vent mod. Of course, if the accel pump has worn out on your carb, there is no fixing it because as of last i knew, Walbro does not offer replacement accel pump parts.
 

Keith Gandy

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I'm not smart or nothing like these other gents, but I happened to read this in another thread right after reading about your issues and didn't know if it applied and you were privy to said info...
Ok thanks. Ya I put the stock carb back on and it runs perfect . I had a rebuild kit but I think it was the wrong one
 

Keith Gandy

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Did it feel any weaker with the stock carb?


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Im not sure but I finally got one of the 199s to run right with the hole drill in the diaphram cover. Guess that would be an easy comparison when I round some wood up. This thing still 4 strokes at 14500
 

paragonbuilder

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Im not sure but I finally got one of the 199s to run right with the hole drill in the diaphram cover. Guess that would be an easy comparison when I round some wood up. This thing still 4 strokes at 14500

Sweet! It would be nice to see the difference. Also would be cool to see both carbs with the stock filter setup...[emoji6]


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Tor R

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Im not sure but I finally got one of the 199s to run right with the hole drill in the diaphram cover. Guess that would be an easy comparison when I round some wood up. This thing still 4 strokes at 14500
I had one 199 that didnt worked out at all on 346, full rebuild also with all the modds, slapped another 199 with the old gaskets and non modded on and my 346 was running like a charm.

357 airfilter & airfilter holder is a must have on those 346, I would actually use them even with stock carb
 

jmssaws

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Big bars expose many flaws in porting. Any saw can sound and look "Brutish" wearing a 20" bar. (well almost lol)
I deal with mostly 85+cc saws and If it's fast with a short bar then it's fast with a long bar.
A 20" can be much harder for the saw than a 36" it's all in the chain and gear.
If it's fast with a big gear and mean chain with a 16" bar then it's fast with any length bar.
If you want to find out how much grunt one has put a 9 or 10 pin on with a good chain and see how it runs it in a cant.
 

MustangMike

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Some saws have a much broader torque curve and are a lot more "user friendly" in the real world. I not saying you can't test that by leaning on a short bar, but if you just allow the saw to stay in it's zone, it does not get tested. Sometimes the fastest cant saw will not make the best work saw, there are a lot of factors.

However, with your experience, I'm sure you can tell the difference.
 

jmssaws

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The fastest saws are generally very poor work saws.
I always ran a mild ported 395 in the log woods because it's more user friendly.
I don't like notching and boring with a real mean saw.

What I meant is if a saw is fast with a 9pin in a 12x12 it will be fast with a long bar. It takes the same power to run both.
 
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