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MustangMike

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I have a MMWS ported 261 type II and it is an awesome saw.

Very light, great for both liming and light bucking.

I'm sure that saw will put a smile on someone's face!
 

2000ssm6

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Out of your pool of saws, the 044/046 and 372 would be the ones to have ported. Figure on adding a max flow air filter to the 044/046, due to their age I'd have the crank seals replaced also(use OEM seals). Anyone worth sending them to is going to be $350+, plus shipping costs which can be $75+.
 

MustangMike

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A lot of 046-460s need porting, but my 10 mm 044 runs very strong with a base gasket delete and timing advance. I also did the same to a 440 that was almost as strong.

I like the steel mesh winter filters on these saws. They are very easy to clean and provide good air flow. (I don't use them when milling).
 

EAK044

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A lot of 046-460s need porting, but my 10 mm 044 runs very strong with a base gasket delete and timing advance. I also did the same to a 440 that was almost as strong.

I like the steel mesh winter filters on these saws. They are very easy to clean and provide good air flow. (I don't use them when milling).

When doing a base gasket delete, is timing advancing necessary?


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MustangMike

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When doing a base gasket delete, is timing advancing necessary?


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Actually, I think it is more necessary after doing a muffler mod, which is usually also done with a BGD and perhaps a less restrictive air filter.

IMO, the main purpose of the BGD is to add a little more compression to make the engine more efficient. An increase in compression is one of the few modifications that will often give both more power and better fuel economy. (Higher compression will generate more power from the same amount of fuel).

It is all similar to the mods we used to do to cars back in the day ... steel shim head gaskets, headers and low restriction mufflers, low restriction air filters, and a timing advance to help everything work in sync!

The more you let an engine breath, the higher it will rev, and the more it will need a timing advance to take advantage of the available power.

The concepts are simple, nailing it right is not always as simple.
 

Loony661

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Actually, I think it is more necessary after doing a muffler mod, which is usually also done with a BGD and perhaps a less restrictive air filter.

IMO, the main purpose of the BGD is to add a little more compression to make the engine more efficient. An increase in compression is one of the few modifications that will often give both more power and better fuel economy. (Higher compression will generate more power from the same amount of fuel).

It is all similar to the mods we used to do to cars back in the day ... steel shim head gaskets, headers and low restriction mufflers, low restriction air filters, and a timing advance to help everything work in sync!

The more you let an engine breath, the higher it will rev, and the more it will need a timing advance to take advantage of the available power.

The concepts are simple, nailing it right is not always as simple.

Well said! If only we could simply loosen and adjust the timing on the fly like our V8’s!! Wouldn’t that be nice?!
 

MustangMike

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I remember getting the timing right on my 68 390 GT Mustang after I put a 427 solid lifter cam, Hooker header and an 800 double pumper Holley on it.

You needed that special distributer wrench to get to the bolt. I would hit it in 1st and second, pull off on the shoulder, and move the distributor a bit and repeat till it pulled the best! No timing light, just kept track of where the vacuum line was pointing!

It would do 70 MPH in first gear, and as soon as you banged second you were doing 90. Damn that thing was fast, fastest Mustang I ever owned, including the 427 and the current SC one. I never lost a race with that car, and I had it in the early 70s when worked Muscle Cars were all over the place.
 

Duce

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I remember getting the timing right on my 68 390 GT Mustang after I put a 427 solid lifter cam, Hooker header and an 800 double pumper Holley on it.

You needed that special distributer wrench to get to the bolt. I would hit it in 1st and second, pull off on the shoulder, and move the distributor a bit and repeat till it pulled the best! No timing light, just kept track of where the vacuum line was pointing!

It would do 70 MPH in first gear, and as soon as you banged second you were doing 90. Damn that thing was fast, fastest Mustang I ever owned, including the 427 and the current SC one. I never lost a race with that car, and I had it in the early 70s when worked Muscle Cars were all over the place.
My stepfather always said hand me vacuum gauge and make it the best air pump possible. We would loosen distributor on correct craft and MasterCraft boats, run it wide open, set timing to get most out of it, then back off slightly. Used same method on my V8 jeep build, could change timing and carb with computer fuel injection. Had to be a Chevy small distributor.
 

Bigmac

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I remember getting the timing right on my 68 390 GT Mustang after I put a 427 solid lifter cam, Hooker header and an 800 double pumper Holley on it.

You needed that special distributer wrench to get to the bolt. I would hit it in 1st and second, pull off on the shoulder, and move the distributor a bit and repeat till it pulled the best! No timing light, just kept track of where the vacuum line was pointing!

It would do 70 MPH in first gear, and as soon as you banged second you were doing 90. Damn that thing was fast, fastest Mustang I ever owned, including the 427 and the current SC one. I never lost a race with that car, and I had it in the early 70s when worked Muscle Cars were all over the place.
What rear gear did you have? 3.00? And 28” tires?
 

Nutball

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What was the top speed?

My dad had a mustang that would go near 60mph in 1st if I remember correctly, maybe it was only 40mph. Whatever it was, there was so much toque fighting the wind resistance that the wheels would loose grip in that gear. I think it reached 203mph on the dyno at around 600hp.
 

Bigmac

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What was the top speed?

My dad had a mustang that would go near 60mph in 1st if I remember correctly, maybe it was only 40mph. Whatever it was, there was so much toque fighting the wind resistance that the wheels would loose grip in that gear. I think it reached 203mph on the dyno at around 600hp.
Was that a 4 speed? Or a newer stang? Oe Speedo’s are usually inaccurate, wheelspeed on a dyno can be a different story. I calculate speed with rpm, gear and tire diameter, speedometers, are usually off, Porsche had a 911 that said it was doing 210, an was gps verified at 175, and speed bikes are way way off in general! Have heard of 40% upside on speed, people want to think they are going fast! lol
 

Bigmac

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I think it was a 6 speed. It had custom work done to it. I think it was a '93 or 94 cobra.
Custom work for sure, that era of cobra was cool, but never 600hp to the wheel, that’s a tall task for the 03-04 sc aluminuator Cobras, whp, wise. Famously the c6 corvette was drag limited for top speed to around 203 mph, If memory serves, it took a while for the mustang to break 200mpg in reality, it been a while but I think it was around 2010-2012 gt500kr got a new front end, it was amazing for the platform. my old 68 body style has trouble over 180 mph, unless your talking about big red, the king of high speed muscle cars! Look it up if your haven’t seen. Legendary car
 
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