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One ring vs two

CR888

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I was young and stupid......and I broke the law. Being locked up was the best thing that ever happened to me. I left that experience a different person.
That's what we like about the Monkey (not that he been in the locker) but he owns his story, his mistakes & past demons, is a little rough on the outside, has a funky faded tatt but inside is softer with a heart of gold. Helps folks out, is honest, hard working and says it how it is. Poke him with a stick and be an ass you get a taste of the supressed side and eat monkey poo. Black and white no grey.
 

Moparmyway

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There has to be a way to weld to the crank. Ain't there?
Welding cast is a crapshoot, at best.
Especially under high RPM with harmonics and centrifugal forces added, its a recipe for disaster.
There is a reason why they try to add Mallory metal perpendicular to the rotational axis on high RPM crankshafts
 

Moparmyway

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I figure welding cast is about 75/25 on breaking. For ornamental with no movement it's fine.
Ornamental and no moving .......... take your pick : MIG, TIG, stick, heck even oxy welding will hold

I found that if its important, it gets flame-sprayed
 

Deets066

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So how would one go about building a full circle crank then?
 

czar800

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I would say that starting with steel or stainless steel would be easier? I'm not a metal guy, but I know there are many different types and grades.

Man I eat a lot popcorn!! :icon_popcorn:
I couldn't find the one of me eating my foot!!!
 

awol

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So how would one go about building a full circle crank then?
Well I don't know how the pros do it, but I started out by chucking up the original crank between centers, and taking a real light cut all the way around to true it up. I then took measurements and ordered crank saver sleeves of the same dimension, fitted them on the crank, and filled the voids with jb weld. After it hardened I had to chuck it back up and do some cleanup. It looks kinda ruff but works ok. This was my first, and I have another that needs done now.

20160129_203636.jpg
 

polkat

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I have thought at one time to have the other half machined out of aluminum and have a keyway cut on both sides drill and tap and a lot of good locktite and giver. Still think about it every once in a while
 

jmssaws

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Well I don't know how the pros do it, but I started out by chucking up the original crank between centers, and taking a real light cut all the way around to true it up. I then took measurements and ordered crank saver sleeves of the same dimension, fitted them on the crank, and filled the voids with jb weld. After it hardened I had to chuck it back up and do some cleanup. It looks kinda ruff but works ok. This was my first, and I have another that needs done now.

View attachment 7869
When can I send you one?
 

tree monkey

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Well I don't know how the pros do it, but I started out by chucking up the original crank between centers, and taking a real light cut all the way around to true it up. I then took measurements and ordered crank saver sleeves of the same dimension, fitted them on the crank, and filled the voids with jb weld. After it hardened I had to chuck it back up and do some cleanup. It looks kinda ruff but works ok. This was my first, and I have another that needs done now.

View attachment 7869

that's basically how I do mine. did you need to in large the case for clearance?
 

awol

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that's basically how I do mine. did you need to in large the case for clearance?
No, but the clearance was less than the original. The crank saver rings are real thin, probably about .020".

Whenever I get it back will be fine.
Give me a call anytime if ya want.
 
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