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Official Rules For Asian MS440 Buildoff 2018 MMWS GTG

drf256

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I found alot of metal flakes, many between bearings and seals. Whomever didnt pop the bearings and, at a minimum, seals out is in for a big suprise.

It appears that the impulse line is giving my saw the fits. I too changed the flywheel/coil/lead/fuel line/fuel filter/carb x 2 and i stll have starting problems.
 

Mastermind

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Mine is about ready :)
Farmertec Jug, class three
Is it me or is this 440 builder kit pretty crappy compared to the 660 builder kit?
stuff that I found sucked - obviously bearings, seals, circlips, carb, fuel line and filter and my crank was assembled incorrectly

These kits are junk compared to the 660 kits in my not so humble opinion.

Chinese 372s next year?
 

redlight066

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IMG_2575.JPG Port work done, muffler modded, crankcase assembled. I can't believe it.......it passed a pressure/vacuum test after I used thread sealer in the decomp plug. I'm using the farmertec jug that came with the kit. Can't believe how soft the plating and aluminum are. I "colored outside the lines" from a little chatter off the grinder. First time doing finger ports. And yes it took me more than 10 minutes. Not nearly as scary as I thought. Lunch break is over, back to it.
 

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redlight066

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It runs pretty good.....at least for who it's for. HAHAHAHAHA!! It's got a little more vibration than a real 440. Made a few test cuts. Found a nail in the test wood. Urrrrrgggg. All done for the day. I'll put a fresh grind on the chain in the morning and upload a video

Thanks for everyone's info on building these. We can all share some funnys at the GTG. I'm ready for a beer
 

MustangMike

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Hey mfers !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who is bringing an Asian 440 to compete?

Wish I could make it Randy, but I don't think my saw would be legal to compete. I put an OEM 460 piston in it to reduce the vibs, and a HL Supply Door Buster Jug with the intake lowered and some shallow bridge ports. It runs nice! Also has an OEM carb. (HD 16).

Don't know why so many of these saws have starting problems, but replacing the carb often helps, but does not always cure it (still often takes more than normal # of pulls to start). And the Asian carbs that come with them have all but driven me nuts, and when you replace them with OEM, the choke does not function properly! (I spray the control lever with Fluid Film to get it to operate smoothly, then mod the control lever to get OEM carbs to work). Also, if you don't mod them, the choke plate on ALL the carbs that come with these kits stick closed!

One BB I did started and ran fine. So I took it into the woods to cut a tree, and it would not start. So I pulled the air filter cover, poured some fuel from the tank into it, primed it, and it ran just fine. Next morning, could not get it to run even with priming!!! WTF!!! Have had several do similar stuff after running just fine 1, 2 or 3 times previously. I'm thinking there must be junk in the carb (like in the rest of the saw). Had a big piece of metal fall out of one of the main bearings when I flushed it with WD-40.

These saws have been very challenging. About the only things better on the 440 kits (compared to the 660 kits) is the fast idle usually works, and if you replace the chain adjusters with OEM or HL Supply, you usually don't have to shim anything!
 

drf256

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Wish I could make it Randy, but I don't think my saw would be legal to compete. I put an OEM 460 piston in it to reduce the vibs, and a HL Supply Door Buster Jug with the intake lowered and some shallow bridge ports. It runs nice! Also has an OEM carb. (HD 16).

Don't know why so many of these saws have starting problems, but replacing the carb often helps, but does not always cure it (still often takes more than normal # of pulls to start). And the Asian carbs that come with them have all but driven me nuts, and when you replace them with OEM, the choke does not function properly! (I spray the control lever with Fluid Film to get it to operate smoothly, then mod the control lever to get OEM carbs to work). Also, if you don't mod them, the choke plate on ALL the carbs that come with these kits stick closed!

One BB I did started and ran fine. So I took it into the woods to cut a tree, and it would not start. So I pulled the air filter cover, poured some fuel from the tank into it, primed it, and it ran just fine. Next morning, could not get it to run even with priming!!! WTF!!! Have had several do similar stuff after running just fine 1, 2 or 3 times previously. I'm thinking there must be junk in the carb (like in the rest of the saw). Had a big piece of metal fall out of one of the main bearings when I flushed it with WD-40.

These saws have been very challenging. About the only things better on the 440 kits (compared to the 660 kits) is the fast idle usually works, and if you replace the chain adjusters with OEM or HL Supply, you usually don't have to shim anything!
Sounds painfully familiar.
 

redlight066

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I'd say the cases are OK, that's about it.

I had a bear of a time installing the chain brake system. Replaced with OEM and the band doesn't grab the clutch drum. The handle does engage and disengage and feels like it should. I'm going to have a look at it today. I think the brake band needs a little more room in the case to travel. Seemed a little bound up. Anyone else have this issue?
 

Fruecrue

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I had a bear of a time installing the chain brake system. Replaced with OEM and the band doesn't grab the clutch drum. The handle does engage and disengage and feels like it should. I'm going to have a look at it today. I think the brake band needs a little more room in the case to travel. Seemed a little bound up. Anyone else have this issue?
I have same issue, no OEM parts in the brake. It clicks on and off, grabs the drum a bit, but does not stop the chain as it should.
 

drf256

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My saw more OEM than not.

Installing the band was a chore, but only the brake flag is AM on mine. Every other part of the brake and clutch system is OEM on mine and fit well.

The case casting did seem s bit tighter than i recall on OEM cases.
 
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