If I'm not mistaken, you're runnin Hooskies? The 70cc and up saw all have fairly big dawgs? What are your thoughts on these?
I’m not exactly certain how the longer dogs make it lock up, but they definitely do. I believe that with the points sticking further away, a minute movement upward by your hand results in a larger distance traveled by the bar.. And I’ve always been right there with you arguing about the torque versus fly wheel thing. And that’s all I was talking about was the initial hit.
Less hook and taller rakers would definitely help. I tilted the grinder back 5° from my normal and sharpened it without any noticeable difference. Probably should’ve tried 10° less. And it’s definitely not just the 462. Every saw will do it if you don’t have the correct chain for the setup you’re trying to run. But the 462 flywheel seems really light and I mostly attributed it to that because it’s more noticeable on the 462 than other saws of similar size
The crank is probably not much heavier than a 60cc crank too since the stroke is the same as most 60cc saws. I’m gonna guess you guys try to keep that exhaust real low on the 462 when porting it? That must help a little.
I know some guys raise it back up but I usually leave it down after machine work. It already turns a bunch of RPMs, so I try and give it more torque
My statement was more of a question than argument about the bigger Dawgs. I’ve never had the same problem, but it’s likely because of the way I cut. I never have the chains moving when I hit a log bucking. You’ve probably seen it in my vids, but I lay the chain on the wood and hit the trigger a few times to notch and then hit it.
The more you drop the jug over the piston, the more degrees of rotation until the exhaust roof opens.
Personally don’t think the flywheel weight has anything appreciable to do with spoolup. Take any saw you build with no bar and chain and spoolup is instant. Add B&C and it slows down. Want faster spoolup? Add a smaller bar and chain.
Your technique helps a little. I notice the phenomenon most cutting notches into hardwood trees. Cutting softer wood like tulip poplar (like in your above video), cottonwood, hemlock, white pine (or other pines/conifers) the phenomenon is mitigated. The large west coast dawgs were designed to purposely bite into huge thick barked trees out west. The hook on the bottom tooth points down instead of flat like stock dawgs. They need the saw to bite in the thick bark so there not holding it up and muscling it around in a humbolt undercut. More leverage. Keeps the saw steady when there trying to line up cuts in a big tree. Here the wood bark is thinner, trees smaller and the wood is harder. Different cutting techniques are also used (we don’t use the humbolt as often). Felling dawgs don’t need to be as aggressive. Aggressive ones tend to be counterproductive here. Just my opinion.
typically it changes the number around 2 degrees, a good rule is for every .010 you remove is close to 1 degree, I believe the 462 gasket I measured was .019, not only do you lower the exhaust but of course you also Increase compression also. I also have a lathe so cutting the chamber and base further allows me to achieve my desired numbers, along with using a degree wheel and right angle/ straight hand pieces. But honestly the Mustang Mike method of base delete, muffler mod and timing advance help these saws for anyone looking at doing things themselves that don't have special tooling.
Maybe I am read that wrong. Flywheels make a huge difference on spool up, Similar to short bars or no bar, the less mass to accelerate the quicker the spool. Like putting an aluminum flywheel on a muscle car or lightening the flywheel on a quad, its noticeable
I shoulda said that it applies to chainsaws. There’s just not enough real estate in there to fit something with enough difference in mass. Plus, fin design limits or helps spoolup.
