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372xp issues

slambox28

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It looks like someone went at it too aggressively with oxyacetylene šŸ˜‚? just a guess. I'd like to sandblast the cases and refinish with epoxy primer but don't know if I will. Prev owner sprayed over most all the exterior with a brighter orange.

Aside from this the case is in pretty good shape
IMG_20241009_154155256.jpg
 

slambox28

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It looks like someone went at it too aggressively with oxyacetylene šŸ˜‚? just a guess. I'd like to sandblast the cases and refinish with epoxy primer but don't know if I will. Prev owner sprayed over most all the exterior with a brighter orange.

Aside from this the case is in pretty good shape
View attachment 436894
Or maybe that's just corrosion from carbon steel to aluminum contact idk
 

hacskaroly

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As for the kill switch mine doesn't always work but the choke works just as well, and was going to unhook it altogether but not sure if that would cause an open circuit.
You should be able to disconnect it without issue. Amazon has kill switches cheap, I think I got 5 for $5. If you have a multimeter, you can double check to see if the switch is working or if one of the wires has a short. Heck, if it comes down to it, any autoparts store will have an assortment of kill switches that should work.
 

Woodslasher

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Looks like the saw was a Jonsered originally, the cases and carb floor look Jonsered red. The stuff inside the case is corrosion, not burn marks.
 

slambox28

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Looks like the saw was a Jonsered originally, the cases and carb floor look Jonsered red. The stuff inside the case is corrosion, not burn marks.
Oh the Jonsonred is red, I see, ya the rear half with the fuel tank and handle is all red painted over with orange, also the crankcase is painted over too! It has a flat top cover for the air filter. The cylinder cover plastic is original orange along with the intake cover. All I know is the cases Sweden and the crankshaft also says Sweden, but the original color is red on the inside of the case!
 

slambox28

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You should be able to disconnect it without issue. Amazon has kill switches cheap, I think I got 5 for $5. If you have a multimeter, you can double check to see if the switch is working or if one of the wires has a short. Heck, if it comes down to it, any autoparts store will have an assortment of kill switches that should work.
Oh right on, definitely worth it for that price!
 

slambox28

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Something really is up with this bottom/top end... When rolling it over top dead center it moves like it's spring loaded at the top...

Turning it to the top dead center is almost like holding magnets of the same poles together it just doesn't want to do it...

Going back and forth at top dead center the Piston is moving up and down a just a few millimeters. But it acts spring loaded right at the top, rolling over TDV is not smooth or steady, like rolling over a bump, some point of resistance...

And the squish is more than a piece of solder wire...
 
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slambox28

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Something really is up with this crankshaft! When rolling it over top dead center it moves like it's spring loaded at the top...

Turning it to the top dead center is almost like holding magnets of the same poles together it just doesn't want to do it...

Going back and forth at top dead center the Piston is moving up and down a just a few millimeters. But it acts spring loaded right at the top, rolling over TDV is not smooth or steady, like rolling over a bump, some point of resistance...

And the squish is more than a piece of solder wire...

Sounds like the magnets on the flywheel. Did you try spinning it with the coil unbolted
Yes this is the crankcase and cylinder only, everything else is swapped over to the new crankcase+engine now.

Just the bare crankcase and cylinder only is where I'm noticing this; much different than the brand new case! Now that I have a known good engine/case assembly I can tell for sure something is not right...

And for the saw: just waiting on the new flywheel now to run the saw with new crankase/engine... broke off the alignment key bubble from the old flywheel when disassembling to swap over parts...
 

Fun2Cut

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Stumbled across this thread.

Howā€™s the project been coming? Any progress?

One qualifier before I go further: I work with larger engines than in focus here for a living. Mobile generator mechanic. Largest genset Iā€™ve worked on was a 3,340kWe unit. Actually was 3 of them running parallel for a total of 10mWe output. But I do play with saws as a hobby. So I am open to correction if I have things wrong when it comes to the two-smokersā€¦

@slambox28 it could help a lot if youā€™d send pics that show what youā€™re talking about. I find it difficult to follow your train of thought in typed words (Not faulting you on this. Just stating a factā€¦) and possibly pics would help that. ā€œA picture is worth 1,000 words.ā€ For sure if itā€™s taken to show what you are referring to.

Have you done research and compared the symptoms of your saw to your research in a well documented manner? I think having method to your madness would aid in keeping the project from becoming a money sink. A scatter gun app might catch it, but it is never the best way to accurately achieve repeatable results. ā€œThe making of a world class tech is not so much how smart he is, as it is how well he can keep track of himself.ā€

How did you decide that the somehow somewhere some component of the crankshaft stretched? If the conrod seriously experienced that much stress, I have never heard of them stretching. They brake. At least in larger engines Iā€™ve worked on.

And btw, please go beyond tin man ponyā€™s YouTube channel for well documented information. He lets on like he knows a lot. I ainā€™t out to bad mouth him, but Iā€™ve seen his channel string more than a few other people down some pretty crazy paths.

Iā€™ve also seen people in my field of work use a scatter gun approach to diagnosing problems. A few times they get lucky and ā€œfix itā€ on the first round. But then they donā€™t have solid answers the issue. More often than not, however, a shotgun approach makes for frustrated customers, a bad rep for the company, techs who make it obvious they should not be called techs, etc.

So Iā€™d just repeat: please dig to the bottom of the problem. Find solid data that can guide you in your diagnostics. (There is an amazing knowledge base right here on this forum!!) Then once you have gotten to the bottom of the matter, you can knowledgeably order parts you need, and have confidence you will achieve your desired results. If you take another approach, I can not stop you. I can only warn you that you will waste money and time, and frustrate yourself majorly.

Please understand I am not trying to dig you in the back or smack you in the face!!! Iā€™d like to see you get to the bottom of your problems and build back your beloved 372!!
 
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