372xp issues

[slambox28]

It looks like someone went at it too aggressively with oxyacetylene ? just a guess. I'd like to sandblast the cases and refinish with epoxy primer but don't know if I will. Prev owner sprayed over most all the exterior with a brighter orange.

Aside from this the case is in pretty good shape

 

[slambox28]

It looks like someone went at it too aggressively with oxyacetylene ? just a guess. I'd like to sandblast the cases and refinish with epoxy primer but don't know if I will. Prev owner sprayed over most all the exterior with a brighter orange.

Aside from this the case is in pretty good shape
View attachment 436894

Or maybe that's just corrosion from carbon steel to aluminum contact idk

 

[slambox28]

The original cylinder is in pretty good shape, put it on with new rings to keep the new one as a backup but...

 

[hacskaroly]

As for the kill switch mine doesn't always work but the choke works just as well, and was going to unhook it altogether but not sure if that would cause an open circuit.

You should be able to disconnect it without issue. Amazon has kill switches cheap, I think I got 5 for $5. If you have a multimeter, you can double check to see if the switch is working or if one of the wires has a short. Heck, if it comes down to it, any autoparts store will have an assortment of kill switches that should work.

 

[Woodslasher]

Looks like the saw was a Jonsered originally, the cases and carb floor look Jonsered red. The stuff inside the case is corrosion, not burn marks.

 

[slambox28]

Looks like the saw was a Jonsered originally, the cases and carb floor look Jonsered red. The stuff inside the case is corrosion, not burn marks.

Oh the Jonsonred is red, I see, ya the rear half with the fuel tank and handle is all red painted over with orange, also the crankcase is painted over too! It has a flat top cover for the air filter. The cylinder cover plastic is original orange along with the intake cover. All I know is the cases Sweden and the crankshaft also says Sweden, but the original color is red on the inside of the case!

 

[slambox28]

You should be able to disconnect it without issue. Amazon has kill switches cheap, I think I got 5 for $5. If you have a multimeter, you can double check to see if the switch is working or if one of the wires has a short. Heck, if it comes down to it, any autoparts store will have an assortment of kill switches that should work.

Oh right on, definitely worth it for that price!

 

[Woodwackr]

Frankinsaw…

 

[slambox28]

Frankinsaw…

that's frank-an-sure. And a new clone crankcase with a 52mm engine on the way.. to add to it

 

[cuinrearview]

that's frank-an-sure. And a new clone crankcase with a 52mm engine on the way.. to add to it

More China added to this equation should certainly help

 

[Woodwackr]

More China added to this equation should certainly help

Can’t hurt, lol

 

[slambox28]

More China added to this equation should certainly help

 

[slambox28]

Something really is up with this bottom/top end... When rolling it over top dead center it moves like it's spring loaded at the top...

Turning it to the top dead center is almost like holding magnets of the same poles together it just doesn't want to do it...

Going back and forth at top dead center the Piston is moving up and down a just a few millimeters. But it acts spring loaded right at the top, rolling over TDV is not smooth or steady, like rolling over a bump, some point of resistance...

And the squish is more than a piece of solder wire...

 

[Shane¹]

Sounds like the magnets on the flywheel. Did you try spinning it with the coil unbolted

 

[slambox28]

Something really is up with this crankshaft! When rolling it over top dead center it moves like it's spring loaded at the top...

Turning it to the top dead center is almost like holding magnets of the same poles together it just doesn't want to do it...

Going back and forth at top dead center the Piston is moving up and down a just a few millimeters. But it acts spring loaded right at the top, rolling over TDV is not smooth or steady, like rolling over a bump, some point of resistance...

And the squish is more than a piece of solder wire...

Sounds like the magnets on the flywheel. Did you try spinning it with the coil unbolted

Yes this is the crankcase and cylinder only, everything else is swapped over to the new crankcase+engine now.

Just the bare crankcase and cylinder only is where I'm noticing this; much different than the brand new case! Now that I have a known good engine/case assembly I can tell for sure something is not right...

And for the saw: just waiting on the new flywheel now to run the saw with new crankase/engine... broke off the alignment key bubble from the old flywheel when disassembling to swap over parts...