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New to Simington grinding.

Alderman

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I purchased a used Simington grinder a while back and have only used it a couple of times so far. Learning as I go.
Originally I couldn’t adjust the up/down of the swing arm enough to keep the wheel from getting into the tie straps. Even so this did cut decently to my standards as just a firewood cutter.
9ee94d7b4f0f49f6f3164a0254542c0e.jpg

Frustrated with this I couldn’t figure out how to fix the issue and after reading on the Simington tips/tricks thread i could tell this wasn’t the result I was looking for.
Yesterday I took the swing arm off and moved one of the washers from the bottom to the top, thus shimming the swing arm down a little.
This moved my chain more to the top of the arc on the chain holder and now gives me adjustment enough to keep the wheel out of the tie straps.
I haven’t cut with my first effort yet and know it’s not perfect but looks a little more like the recommended pics and without so much back angle on the side plate.
Still got many pages to read on the tips/tricks thread but feel this was a step in the right direction.
Any help or advise/critique appreciated.
73043dd2061ae7688b53c429d3743d82.jpg



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Lightning Performance

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I purchased a used Simington grinder a while back and have only used it a couple of times so far. Learning as I go.
Originally I couldn’t adjust the up/down of the swing arm enough to keep the wheel from getting into the tie straps. Even so this did cut decently to my standards as just a firewood cutter.
9ee94d7b4f0f49f6f3164a0254542c0e.jpg

Frustrated with this I couldn’t figure out how to fix the issue and after reading on the Simington tips/tricks thread i could tell this wasn’t the result I was looking for.
Yesterday I took the swing arm off and moved one of the washers from the bottom to the top, thus shimming the swing arm down a little.
This moved my chain more to the top of the arc on the chain holder and now gives me adjustment enough to keep the wheel out of the tie straps.
I haven’t cut with my first effort yet and know it’s not perfect but looks a little more like the recommended pics and without so much back angle on the side plate.
Still got many pages to read on the tips/tricks thread but feel this was a step in the right direction.
Any help or advise/critique appreciated.
73043dd2061ae7688b53c429d3743d82.jpg



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I know nothing about square grinders but that first pic is what I'm after with a file. Nice looking cutter to me.
 

Alderman

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Your wheel needs dressed to be thinner and that will keep it out of the tie straps.

I tried that but with the original set up all it did was sharpen the upper portion of the tooth and left a big part of the gullet in place. May have to thin it some more anyway to see if that helps but still have some down adjustment left to help keep the tie straps clear.


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PA Dan

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I tried that but with the original set up all it did was sharpen the upper portion of the tooth and left a big part of the gullet in place. May have to thin it some more anyway to see if that helps but still have some down adjustment left to help keep the tie straps clear.


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You can also use the chain stop to push the tooth farther forward. Then you will have to adjust the height. Post some pics of your setup with the chain in the grinder.
 

Alderman

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I think what was happening with the original set up was to get the corner of the chain lined up with wheel it was ending up too far down on the arc of the chain holder. I’m thinking this made too much angle between the tooth and the wheel.
I didn’t have any adjustment left to lower the swing arm. Shimming the swing arm seems to have flattened the angle some and leaves me with up and down adjustment on the swing arm.
Will get some pics and see what you think. Thanks for looking at this.


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huskihl

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If it’s the 451 with the up/down adjustment on the arm, thinning the wheel allows you to lower the arm and still roll the tooth down into the wheel so you can get blunt enough angles that the chain will last a few tanks before resharpening
 
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Alderman

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Just an update. Not all of the issue but shimmed the motor to get both sides at the same height. Some more pics. Just a guess but I think it works to just bring the two corners together. If I grind more than that I end up with a beak on the corner.
e6631e0b3afa7160a7964669546ba03c.jpg

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SOS Ridgerider

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I’m with @PA Dan and @huskihl here. Your wheel is too tall, and grinds a very tall side plate. Use your dressing stone and thin it down quite a bit. You don’t really need much side plate anyways. Rakers are usually only .025 - .050 lower than the top plate, so no need for a lot of side plate. I had a much too tall side plate on my wheel when I first started as well, and thinning it helped just like the guys have described.
I think my side plate on the wheel is about 2-2.5mm now, and it’s more than enough. Makes it easier to do the little 3/8”LP and .325“ chains too.
 

Alderman

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I’m with @PA Dan and @huskihl here. Your wheel is too tall, and grinds a very tall side plate. Use your dressing stone and thin it down quite a bit. You don’t really need much side plate anyways. Rakers are usually only .025 - .050 lower than the top plate, so no need for a lot of side plate. I had a much too tall side plate on my wheel when I first started as well, and thinning it helped just like the guys have described.
I think my side plate on the wheel is about 2-2.5mm now, and it’s more than enough. Makes it easier to do the little 3/8”LP and .325“ chains too.

Thanks. Will definitely go that route and try it out. When I first tried it out I had it thin but and was surprised how well it cut but after looking at some pics I thought I needed more side plate. Great to get advise from the this site.


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