New to Simington grinding.

[pbillyi69]

it looks like the arbor is to far down on the shaft to me. if you run out of adjustment on the arm you can move the arbor up and down to gain more adjustment. you can make your stone thinner and not grind down so far on the side strap. but you also wont have as much side strap to cut with

 

[blades]

the condition the chain chassis is going to have a lot to say about your grinding. If the bottoms of the links are worn it becomes quite flustrating. one because they do noyt all wear the same and 2 because the tooth will rock away from the wheel. from what i can see on mine where you are on the arc of the chain holder does not change the inside top edge angle- the arc is the same all the way across. You can pivot the chain holder and it still stays the same.

 

[pbillyi69]

it actually does change the inside plate angel some. if you move your chain so the cutter is sitting directly on the top of the chain holder and you put a straight edge on it, it will point towards the wall. the is one the inside angles the wheel is going to grind. if you move the chain towads the wheel on the holder that straight edge starts to point down towards the floor the further you move it forward on the arch. the wheel will then be grinding that angle inside your cutter. also makes a different in the bluntness of the grind higher up more knife like thinner further forward blunter more chisel like

 

[blades]

perhaps so. seems that in one of the vids i thought i heard the lateral movement of the chain guide in the arm changed the angle? a combination ? hard for me to tell, the chains from the services are so beat up on the rail side the chassis- they dance all over the place.

 

[pbillyi69]

when i hold my chain i use both hands one to pull the chain back tight against the stop, and the other to keep the cutter that is being ground from moving if you make sure that the cutter is down all the way in the groove then you can just hold pressure straight down or you can push the hanging chain toward the arm and pinch it against it for stability or pull it back slightly with your palm and thumb. i have noticed that if i pinch the chain against the arm it rocks the cutter away from the wheel a tiny bit and if i hold it the other way it rockes it in a tiny bit. which changes the inside angles a little. one direction cuts a little more into the tie straps and the other way a little less

 

[pbillyi69]

im at work right now or i would take a picture and show you how i hold it for reference

 

[P.M.P.]

Really surprised @dall hasn't been in here...

 

[pbillyi69]

What part of western oregon are you in Alderman?

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'm only following to relate your cutters look and not angles to filing for the chainsaw mill. My cutters will be very blunt, ten, five or zero for beam cuts only. Might stone one to see if it helps smooth the face. JR swears it does... so why not try.

My side plate filing appears to be a waste of time on the mill loops. Have not run many loops at zero top plate yet but made up two more. Ten degrees is fast with square and holds up remarkably well in 404

 

[dall]

I’m with @PA Dan and @huskihl here. Your wheel is too tall, and grinds a very tall side plate. Use your dressing stone and thin it down quite a bit. You don’t really need much side plate anyways. Rakers are usually only .025 - .050 lower than the top plate, so no need for a lot of side plate. I had a much too tall side plate on my wheel when I first started as well, and thinning it helped just like the guys have described.
I think my side plate on the wheel is about 2-2.5mm now, and it’s more than enough. Makes it easier to do the little 3/8”LP and .325“ chains too.

exactly
You only need the wheel to be a little thicker than the raker height be it 20 or 30 thousandth

it looks like the arbor is to far down on the shaft to me. if you run out of adjustment on the arm you can move the arbor up and down to gain more adjustment. you can make your stone thinner and not grind down so far on the side strap. but you also wont have as much side strap to cut with

don’t mess with the arbor the arm has way more adjustment than what is needed

when i hold my chain i use both hands one to pull the chain back tight against the stop, and the other to keep the cutter that is being ground from moving if you make sure that the cutter is down all the way in the groove then you can just hold pressure straight down or you can push the hanging chain toward the arm and pinch it against it for stability or pull it back slightly with your palm and thumb. i have noticed that if i pinch the chain against the arm it rocks the cutter away from the wheel a tiny bit and if i hold it the other way it rockes it in a tiny bit. which changes the inside angles a little. one direction cuts a little more into the tie straps and the other way a little less

rocking of the cutter doesn’t mean *s-word
The grinders are meant to be used with slight touches not using gorilla bites
You have to be patient and let the grinder do the work
All you have to do is be consistent with where the wheel corner meets the corner of the cutter
Be glad you have one that is so adjustable and not the older 450 model like I started with and I have lost count on how many chains I’ve sharpened from 3/8 lo pro to 404
Most of the chains I do are shipped out all over the country and other continents

 

[pbillyi69]

I dont make gorilla grinds. slight tapps into the wheel. im just reporting what i have noticed when i hold the chain from rocking on the disc

 

[tek9tim]

it actually does change the inside plate angel some. if you move your chain so the cutter is sitting directly on the top of the chain holder and you put a straight edge on it, it will point towards the wall. the is one the inside angles the wheel is going to grind. if you move the chain towads the wheel on the holder that straight edge starts to point down towards the floor the further you move it forward on the arch. the wheel will then be grinding that angle inside your cutter. also makes a different in the bluntness of the grind higher up more knife like thinner further forward blunter more chisel like

I think there's a little crosswiring of information there. You aren't wrong, but in the right context what blades said is correct too.

Rotating only the holder doesn't change the angles any, but changing where the tooth is on the holder via the stop screw changes the angles. The holder has an even arc and it's concentric to the mounting hole.

But yes, the angles do absolutely change as you push the stop further forward as a chain goes on in life.