Need Help, 500i issues

[Funky sawman]

*s-worde get out of hand quick with folks these days lol in before the lock!

 

[Hinerman]

My buddy is in contact with the stihl tech manager for Atlantic Canada. They’re trying to get to the bottom of the problem so when they figure it out I’ll post what happened. It’s been pretty cold up there, usually below -30°C but all the other saws are working fine.

Any updates?

 

[northwest saws]

Not sure where you're at with these issues OP but we have had a couple come in with some similar issues. Something that we did that got the saws running again was replaced the stop switch. I know that seems silly but after replacing one unit and cleaning up a unit on the other they started right up and haven't skipped a beat since. Something I learned last week is there is an outside temp sensor in the stop switch, in addition to the pressure/temp sensor underneath the flywheel. You're cold weather could be affecting those things much more than other places. I'm over in north-central Idaho and it gets cold but not quite as cold as where you're at I think. If you haven't already I would seriously focus your sights on that stop switch or the sensor underneath the flywheel. Potentially the wiring going between the two from the ECU. Stihl isn't giving us much info on these saws so any knowledge that can be shared is extremely beneficial to all!

 

[Stevetheboatguy]

Not sure where you're at with these issues OP but we have had a couple come in with some similar issues. Something that we did that got the saws running again was replaced the stop switch. I know that seems silly but after replacing one unit and cleaning up a unit on the other they started right up and haven't skipped a beat since. Something I learned last week is there is an outside temp sensor in the stop switch, in addition to the pressure/temp sensor underneath the flywheel. You're cold weather could be affecting those things much more than other places. I'm over in north-central Idaho and it gets cold but not quite as cold as where you're at I think. If you haven't already I would seriously focus your sights on that stop switch or the sensor underneath the flywheel. Potentially the wiring going between the two from the ECU. Stihl isn't giving us much info on these saws so any knowledge that can be shared is extremely beneficial to all!

This is the kind of real world input I like. Even if it's not the op's problem. It is definitely something we should keep in mind.

Steven

 

[Funky sawman]

This is the kind of real world input I like. Even if it's not the op's problem. It is definitely something we should keep in mind.

Steven

I agree, very good post from northwest saws!

 

[woodfarmer]

I have 2, I cut all winter to -30c or -20fred. Sit the saw down in the snow etc. and never had any issues. I almost always put them in the basement every night too. I run Jred 2150-ported 2171’s, all use the same pump non-ethanol premium fuel and whatever oil I have at the time. Stihls, jonsered, Husky, Castrol it doesn’t matter.40:1.

 

[Int1968]

Have a couple at work now they will get a test this winter-20 to -40 Celsius. I will probably tape up the bottom half of the recoil and tape up the vents on the side(s). The Arctic version is available in Europe not sure when/if it will come to Canada. We never got the 241 Arctic when the 241 was available.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Shane, did stihl ever find a fix for this bllsht?
I run all brands of saw in below zero weather. Some saws, I have to build snap-on bibs that cover a portion of the flywheel fins and cover the space in between filter housing and cylinder housing.

Stihl no longer offer arctic provisions, which is bullsht.

Hey guys I’m hoping someone can give me some insight into what may be happening.

I have a friend of mine who is working in northern Ontario at the moment, extremely cold weather and the trees are loaded with snow. They have 6 500i’s on the program and none are running at the moment. 5 of them have less then 10 tanks of gas through them.

Basically what he’s telling me is that they won’t start and are flooding themselves, everyone of them. At first he thought maybe they were all frozen but he had them in a heated building for a day and they still won’t run. Take out the plug, extremely wet, dry it off and put it back in. A couple pulls and it will fire but die immediately and then just completely flood itself again. He’s tried everything that he can’t think of but nothing has worked and I have very little experience with these saws.

And before anyone mentions getting it diagnosed he’s 12hrs from the closest dealer. Any help on what could be the potential cause would be great. Thanks!!

Anymore info on this?

With zero stihl-arctic provisions available here in Alaska, I've been trying to find something better.

Some saws come fresh out of the box with these goodies:
Heated carbs and snap-on bibs to cover the flywheel fins(husq)

Then the echo cs 620 has probably the best winter setting of any saw I run:
a soft rubber port that runs hot air right into the filter housing.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Shane, did stihl ever find a fix for this bllsht?
I run all brands of saw in below zero weather. Some saws, I have to build snap-on bibs that cover a portion of the flywheel fins and cover the space in between filter housing and cylinder housing.

Stihl no longer offer arctic provisions, which is bullsht.


Anymore info on this?

With zero stihl-arctic provisions available here in Alaska, I've been trying to find something better.

Some saws come fresh out of the box with these goodies:
Heated carbs and snap-on bibs to cover the flywheel fins(husq)

Then the echo cs 620 has probably the best winter setting of any saw I run:
a soft rubber port that runs hot air right into the filter housing.

Most stihls have a winter shutter to let hot cylinder air into the air box. I don’t know if they got these saws running but I’ve been told by a few local shops they’ve changed some stop switches because they contain an external temp sensor in them that will cause a no start situation if they fail. But this is only what I was told I haven’t messed with it myself.

 

[Tree Sling'r]

So, I’ve been dealing with this issue, in a few saws I’ve built. Saw was getting too much fuel. Start right up without priming bulb. Idle just fine, but fall on its face when engaging throttle.
First thing I did was swap module, same issue.
Then… I removed and blew out tank vent to see if it was too pressurized. I then unscrewed and cleaned red wire on injector module, thenlightly tapped on injector. I cleaned blue and black male and female connectors.
Finally, sprayed stop switch with cleaner and air.
Saws are all in perfect working order again.
Since I’ve done all of these steps, I’ve yet to pin point exact fix, but it’s easy. Note, all saws are production fallers saws working in burns. Hope this helps, sure helped me!

 

[Funky sawman]

So, you gonna do less and less labor on these saws until you isolate the issue, or do you think it could be a multiple issue problem?

 

[Tree Sling'r]

So, you gonna do less and less labor on these saws until you isolate the issue, or do you think it could be a multiple issue problem?

Maybe just one step at a time rather than a series.

 

[Normzilla]

500i doubters, I was once one too. Until I got mine, I'd probably sell off every saw I own before letting that go now. But man -30 any saws could have issues, especially more electronic I'd think. Ps I love love my Stumpshot572 so that's my favorite too. But My montana friends and family have many cold weather stories, vehicles saws etc. 1 friend has to keep his saw in at night. If left outside it freezes everything solid. But I'm not cutting in those conditions nor want too, -30 or even less and my knowledge of the issue at hand is limited. But I know when my 500 was new, it was touching to start, and flooded a couple times. But wasn't too bad to get going. And after a few tanks it corrected itself.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

If a saw builder took $1500 from yah and it burnt up or wouldn't work in your conditions, the forum would grill the dude at the stake.

But when Stihl takes your money selling you something in your region, when they know it won't work, its ok.

57 below zero, my jonsered 2172 will start. Dmn thing has saved me from frostbite on occasion when I've gotten a heavy machine stuck in overflow. There's a heating element on the carburetor........

 

[Moparmyway]

57 below zero, my jonson

Id move

 

[lehman live edge slab]

If a saw builder took $1500 from yah and it burnt up or wouldn't work in your conditions, the forum would grill the dude at the stake.

But when Stihl takes your money selling you something in your region, when they know it won't work, its ok.

57 below zero, my jonsered 2172 will start. Dmn thing has saved me from frostbite on occasion when I've gotten a heavy machine stuck in overflow. There's a heating element on the carburetor........

Seen more than one saw not start at -38 on spearing trips. Couple huskies and a Stihl bur for some dumb reason the for wheeler and snowmobile started. Wheeler froze the crankcase vent though and popped the valve cover gasket pushing the oil out so needed to get towed back by the snowmobile

 

[redline4]

If a saw builder took $1500 from yah and it burnt up or wouldn't work in your conditions, the forum would grill the dude at the stake.

But when Stihl takes your money selling you something in your region, when they know it won't work, its ok.

57 below zero, my jonsered 2172 will start. Dmn thing has saved me from frostbite on occasion when I've gotten a heavy machine stuck in overflow. There's a heating element on the carburetor........

Those conditions are the minority of the end users. Manufacturers are willing to chance the minority or just overlook it.
It's quite similar with GM. Every winter when we get cold we see vehicle after vehicle with the small gas turbocharged engines all lined up because they are in reduced power mode because the intercooler froze. We install updated heated pcv kits, winter fronts, ecm calibrations to keep the tcc lockup off when cold..
But, the number of these sold in the northernmost cold climate states dwarfs the number where the problem will never arise.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Some saws come with a worthless, archaic cold weather tab, but no corresponding cold weather port off the engine cover.

But then a 590/620 pw has a rubber duct, ported to a shutter, which is very effective:

Napa part # 600-2774 is a pcv valve rubber hose assortment. 2 kits usually provides just the right hoses to add more heat to almost any saw:

Residual oil in the crank case:
Be mindful of the cold pour-point of the oil you use. Some oils like echo red armor, the residual turns gummy as fk, even in mild below zero temps. This makes cold starts difficult.
Then others, like amsoil saber, the residual is still liquid at about 42 below zero.

Starting:
Hard to do with stihl "one switch for everthing", but stay on high idle and engage choke on and off three-four times before letting saw go to low idle/no choke

I can never get a below-zero cold-soaked saw to stay running, starting it against a fkn chain break.

 

[mainer_in_ak]

Alcohol:
I always have to drink when I run my fkn Stihls:

 

[woodfarmer]

Well winters coming, where is the OP?