MS460 Teardown-Comments Welcome

[Redfin]

does this go in along side the crank ? between the seal rubber and crank ?

Yepper

 

[leadfarmer]

Yepper

wont that scratch the shaft?

 

[Canadian farm boy]

wont that scratch the shaft?

So far I haven't scratched any crank shaft using it. The cranks are pretty tough. Even if it did put a light scratch on the crank it would buff out easily with a little Emory cloth

 

[skippy]

So far I haven't scratched any crank shaft using it. The cranks are pretty tough. Even if it did put a light scratch on the crank it would buff out easily with a little Emory cloth

Emory cloth works for everything

 

[cgraham1]

Emory cloth works for everything

Not fapping. Randy told me it was a bad idea.

 

[Canadian farm boy]

Ouch!!!

 

[skippy]

Not fapping. Randy told me it was a bad idea.

Oh

 

[Mastermind]

Chainsaw cranks are not easy to scratch........


Them other cranks ain't so tough.

 

[MustangMike]

Just a little update, started working on it late today (had lots of other thing to take care of), the New OEM 460 pistons do not have notable machine marks, and the new & old pistons both measure the exact same diameter (2.35), so I think the old piston was just fine, but I will use the new piston and keep the old P&C as a set.

I also got some Permatex 51817 Anaerobic Gasket Maker for the base gasket, I think that is the right stuff?

Very weird, the kill switch was completely missing an electrode (it was not just broken off), I'm wondering if that is all that was wrong with this saw (other than a few missing parts).

Back to working on it.

 

[MustangMike]

I may have another problem. I washed the case out with mix, and was ready to start putting it back together, but I don't like the sound of it, it sounds like someone is gargling. Is this indicative of a bearing problem? I did not notice this previously.

 

[MustangMike]

Never mind, I found the problem, the bearing on the clutch side is shot, did not notice it when the clutch drum was on, but now that it is off, it has play.

Guess I will be splitting the case & doing bearings.

The saw must have been sitting so long that you did not notice it until I flushed it with mix.

Any advice appreciated!

 

[angelo c]

Never mind, I found the problem, the bearing on the clutch side is shot, did not notice it when the clutch drum was on, but now that it is off, it has play.

Guess I will be splitting the case & doing bearings.

The saw must have been sitting so long that you did not notice it until I flushed it with mix.

Any advice appreciated!

You ok with splitting Mike ? Heat does a case wonders when breaking up !!!!

 

[angelo c]

Never mind, I found the problem, the bearing on the clutch side is shot, did not notice it when the clutch drum was on, but now that it is off, it has play.

Guess I will be splitting the case & doing bearings.

The saw must have been sitting so long that you did not notice it until I flushed it with mix.

Any advice appreciated!

Sometimes removing the lubricity causes the bearings to show their true condition. Happened to me a few times.

 

[Deets066]

I use heat, a screw driver, and a copper mallet

 

[beaglebriar]

Take note of your seal depth maybe even snap a couple of pictures.

 

[MustangMike]

How do you guys heat it?

I may try to make a splitter using 2 C clamps. Seems like it should work. Either that, or attach a piece of metal to the bar threads, and make a hole in line with the crank, and put a nut under the bar and a bolt through the hole.

The saw sat in the shop for over a year, I think the stuff inside just got so thick that it masked the bearing problem till I flushed it real well with mix.

I will note the seal depth, thanks.

Bummed I'm not going to get that jug running tomorrow, but glad I found the problem before putting it together.

 

[drf256]

How do you guys heat it?

I may try to make a splitter using 2 C clamps. Seems like it should work. Either that, or attach a piece of metal to the bar threads, and make a hole in line with the crank, and put a nut under the bar and a bolt through the hole.

The saw sat in the shop for over a year, I think the stuff inside just got so thick that it masked the bearing problem till I flushed it real well with mix.

I will note the seal depth, thanks.

Bummed I'm not going to get that jug running tomorrow, but glad I found the problem before putting it together.

It's a drag, but thankfully you found it now and not later.

Please post some pics of the split. I have little experience but lots of interest in it.

Is 046 on the list of Stihl that need the oil pump attached as a bearing stop on the PTO side?

 

[beaglebriar]

Use a heat gun. I think the Stihls will come apart without heat but you will need it to remove the bearings from the case.

 

[angelo c]

How do you guys heat it?

I may try to make a splitter using 2 C clamps. Seems like it should work. Either that, or attach a piece of metal to the bar threads, and make a hole in line with the crank, and put a nut under the bar and a bolt through the hole.

The saw sat in the shop for over a year, I think the stuff inside just got so thick that it masked the bearing problem till I flushed it real well with mix.

I will note the seal depth, thanks.

Bummed I'm not going to get that jug running tomorrow, but glad I found the problem before putting it together.

Mike,
I've split quite a few without any tools but heat and a mallet. I have used a heat gun and warmed the bearing races till about 200*~250*. I found a $20 toaster oven big enough to "toast" the entire case and now just plop the whole thing in. Make sure you have all the case bolts out and the aligning pins are pretty much the only thing holding the case together. Usually if still hot (holding the case with welding gloves) driving out the pins splits it in half.
Usually one bearing sticks to the case. Heat that back up and it comes off with some wood blocks and a mallet tap.
Nothing you haven't done with a small block Cleveland.

 

[angelo c]

I use heat, a screw driver, and a copper mallet

What's the screw driver for ?