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sawmikaze

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Im only gonna vent about one more thing here.

I got kinda pissed when members gave me the old " i got boned out of "X" amount of dollars you gotta just move on "....fukk that.

You guys must make alot more money than i do on a day to day basis..im not cool with some dickhead taking my money and i don't think keepin my mouth shut and lettin other people take it up the ass for the sake of peace on the forum is good for business..an extra 3-400 bucks matters to me...it might not matter to you and that's all well and good but it's *B-S.... to think someone else shouldn't care because you don't.

Im done..for now.
 

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Im only gonna vent about one more thing here.

I got kinda pissed when members gave me the old " i got boned out of "X" amount of dollars you gotta just move on "....fukk that.

You guys must make alot more money than i do on a day to day basis..im not cool with some dickhead taking my money and i don't think keepin my mouth shut and lettin other people take it up the ass for the sake of peace on the forum is good for business..an extra 3-400 bucks matters to me...it might not matter to you and that's all well and good but it's *B-S.... to think someone else shouldn't care because you don't.

Im done..for now.

I'd cut a mfer over 20 bucks.
 

RI Chevy

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With both hands tied behind his back.

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sawmikaze

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I'd cut a mfer over 20 bucks.

Thank you.

I don't make 400 dollars in 2 days work.

So i basically worked for 2 days and some change and sweat my balls off while i had poison ivy all over me gettin stung by ground bees and listened to that chipper all fukkin day to have a dildo like jason strapon take what i made in that time...im not cool with that and never will be.
 

jk14

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A small hand square would be a damn fine place to start. Sometimes there is no need to get the "real" measuring tools out.

Hmm, thinking about this...
Wouldn't be particularly straight forward to do it with a plain square, would have to rig up a 't' square of some sort.
Either a small enough square to sit in the bore with a straight edge across the top or a straight edge on the cyl base with the square on top.
Better yet just a block of some kind in the bore (that's well squared up) with a straight edge on top, a cylinder turning or squish cutting mandrel would work nice but then chances are you've got a lathe.
Might get away with a 't' cut out of stiff card stock...

Could also check the squish band against the bore and then use a depth gauge from there to base if you were lucky enough that the band is close to spot on, likely not much chance of that though. Or do the math to compensate...

That said, I don't think I'd be comfortable with anything out side to side by more than sub .001", a little challenging to spot without precision stuff...
General rule of thumb I go by is if white light will shine through a gap, it's at least close to .001"or more, at .0005" or so it will shine blue-ish.

think a square would only give you one or two point reference instead of completely around the sides could be at a different elevation to the front and back

Just to start off I was going to mic. the base to see how close it is at all four corners. Then use my depth mic. to check the base to squish base depth and see where that gets me. The only issue there is that I don't know how consistent the base thickness is from the factory. Therefore if the base is *f-worded and the squish is referenced off of the base then it's pretty much just a waste of time.

Anyone have any idea how consistent the base thickness is on an oem jug?
 

Roadfxr

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Thank you.

I don't make 400 dollars in 2 days work.

So i basically worked for 2 days and some change and sweat my balls off while i had poison ivy all over me gettin stung by ground bees and listened to that chipper all fukkin day to have a dildo like jason strapon take what i made in that time...im not cool with that and never will be.

And to top it all off I'm sure he hasn't lost a damn minute of *f-wordin sleep over any of it......


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Mastermind

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Mastermind

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Just to start off I was going to mic. the base to see how close it is at all four corners. Then use my depth mic. to check the base to squish base depth and see where that gets me. The only issue there is that I don't know how consistent the base thickness is from the factory. Therefore if the base is *frenched and the squish is referenced off of the base then it's pretty much just a waste of time.

Anyone have any idea how consistent the base thickness is on an oem jug?

Just gotta spin it in a lathe.
 

RI Chevy

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I think we all get your point Ryan. You work hard for your money and you got f*cked. We got that.
You gotta just lay it to rest and move on. Take it as a lesson learned. We feel for you.
 

wcorey

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think a square would only give you one or two point reference instead of completely around the sides could be at a different elevation to the front and back

Front to back isn't nearly as critical as the side to side.
But you can also measure front to back the same way...
 

dall

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I think we all get your point. You work hard for your money and you got f*cked. We got that.
You gotta just lay it to rest and move on. Take it as a lesson learned. We feel for you.

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no jeff cant take it as lesson learned but if he or i see jason in person it probably wont be pretty
 

huskihl

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Just to start off I was going to mic. the base to see how close it is at all four corners. Then use my depth mic. to check the base to squish base depth and see where that gets me. The only issue there is that I don't know how consistent the base thickness is from the factory. Therefore if the base is *frenched and the squish is referenced off of the base then it's pretty much just a waste of time.

Anyone have any idea how consistent the base thickness is on an oem jug?
Original base thickness varies about .010" in the 4 corners. Send it out to someone to check it on a lathe
 
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