Limbing Saw Recommendations

[Mrphillips56]

Looking at some used STIHL saws. I plan on using a 14” bar on it. They’re all priced in the $150-$180 range other than the 181c which is at $225. Which of these would you go with? 180C, 181C, 192TC, 193T, 210, 250. I know the 192 and 193 are pro saws, would that sway your answer? TIA

 

[Woodwackr]

Looking at some used STIHL saws. I plan on using a 14” bar on it. They’re all priced in the $150-$180 range other than the 181c which is at $225. Which of these would you go with? 180C, 181C, 192TC, 193T, 210, 250. I know the 192 and 193 are pro saws, would that sway your answer? TIA

It all depends on what your use will be.
The 190 series are top-handle Arborist saws for climbers, mainly, but are compact and easily packed for trail clearing.
Personally, I use a 16”, ported 346xp for most all limbing when the tree is more bush than tree. Otherwise I use my main saw for limbing a pole.
If all you need is occasional use the ms170/180 saws are just fine and very light weight. The 170s are $200, brand new and will be less once the new models become more common.
The “C” series with Stihl’s easy start are just plain weird, imo. Unless you have extreme issues starting a small saw I would stay away from them.

 

[Ketchup]

I wouldn’t go for the 192 or 193 unless being compact is more important than ease of operation. Rear handle is very nice for moving along the trunk and rapidly cutting limbs flush or just bending less. On top of that, top handles often come from tree climbers and see a hard life.

 

[hacskaroly]

these would you go with? 180C, 181C, 192TC, 193T, 210, 250. I know the 192 and 193 are pro saws, would that sway your answer? TIA

Of the smaller saws, I would go with a 171, it has an adjustable carb and flip caps for fuel and oil. Some of the smaller saws have gimmicks on them like easy start or tool-less chain tensoner, just more stuff to break. I have a Husky with the tool-less clutch cover and I don't like it, looking for a regular cover that needs bar nuts. If you choose to go larger, then I would choose the 250/251 over a 210/211 (more power). If you start leaning towards the pro saws, I would recommend a 261/261c, a 4 hp/50cc saw, 10 lbs, comes with an 18" but you can drop a 16" on it. You might be able to put a 14" on it, but will need to change out the rim sprocket to run 3/8 pico chain on it, the saw is light enough to limb, but enough power to buck larger firewood too if you need to.

Most of the time when people get smaller saws, they end up with buyers regret at not getting something bigger. Unless you already have a couple and are looking to fill a niche, then something to think about.

 

[Squareground3691]

CS-355T ,

 

[lehman live edge slab]

Looking at some used STIHL saws. I plan on using a 14” bar on it. They’re all priced in the $150-$180 range other than the 181c which is at $225. Which of these would you go with? 180C, 181C, 192TC, 193T, 210, 250. I know the 192 and 193 are pro saws, would that sway your answer? TIA

Of your list the 193t and its counterpart the newer 194t while both listed as pro saws they get that only because of the top handle. Both the 193/194t are clamshell saws so similar in build to all the others mentioned but they still hold up well. The 192 is fairly old they’ve made the 193 and 194 both as replacements since then. The 180c,181c will both have quick chain adjustment and may have the easy start. The easy start isn’t probably necessary for anyone that is strong enough to safely run a saw and while the easy tool less chain adjustment isn’t hated by lots it actually is handy while brushing at times where the chain is thrown quite often. The 210 and 250 are the same family of saws so same weight basically and I would buy the 250 if these are what I was looking at.

 

[jblnut]

MS200. What a beast. It’ll pull a 14” setup and love every minute of it. I’ve gone to using it for everything up to 12” or so and an 044 or 066 for larger. I’ve ran a MS170 and MS180 and they’re both great limbing saws as well. Light and nimble and won’t break the bank. This little MS200 set me back what a couple MS180’s would have but I don’t regret it one bit.

 

[Mrphillips56]

Of the smaller saws, I would go with a 171, it has an adjustable carb and flip caps for fuel and oil. Some of the smaller saws have gimmicks on them like easy start or tool-less chain tensoner, just more stuff to break. I have a Husky with the tool-less clutch cover and I don't like it, looking for a regular cover that needs bar nuts. If you choose to go larger, then I would choose the 250/251 over a 210/211 (more power). If you start leaning towards the pro saws, I would recommend a 261/261c, a 4 hp/50cc saw, 10 lbs, comes with an 18" but you can drop a 16" on it. You might be able to put a 14" on it, but will need to change out the rim sprocket to run 3/8 pico chain on it, the saw is light enough to limb, but enough power to buck larger firewood too if you need to.

Most of the time when people get smaller saws, they end up with buyers regret at not getting something bigger. Unless you already have a couple and are looking to fill a niche, then something to think about.

I should’ve clarified in the post. I have a 362 I’ll be pairing it with.

 

[2000ssm6]

When I had a 211 it was built on the same chassis as the 171 and 181. All weighed the same but the 211 made the most power.

If this is being paired with a 362, I’d go for a 151 or 201 rear handle. I’ve have/had several of the older 200 rear handle saws, they rip with the spark screen removed. My next small saw will be a 151.

 

[Mrphillips56]

When I had a 211 it was built on the same chassis as the 171 and 181. All weighed the same but the 211 made the most power.

If this is being paired with a 362, I’d go for a 151 or 201 rear handle. I’ve have/had several of the older 200 rear handle saws, they rip with the spark screen removed. My next small saw will be a 151.

Appreciate it. I’ll see if there are any on marketplace near me. May just buy a new 170 or 180. Or say screw it and throw a 13” or 15” on the husky 440 the 362 replaced and save some dough.

 

[hacskaroly]

The 170 and 180 don't have an adjustable carb, I would get a 171, or if you do get a 170/180, put an adjustable carb in it

 

[Ryan Browne]

Appreciate it. I’ll see if there are any on marketplace near me. May just buy a new 170 or 180. Or say screw it and throw a 13” or 15” on the husky 440 the 362 replaced and save some dough.

That's the best choice. That or the 250.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

The 170 and 180 don't have an adjustable carb, I would get a 171, or if you do get a 170/180, put an adjustable carb in it

I really haven’t had any issues with the 170/180 non adjustable carb just run good gas so they don’t plug up. Seems they’re rich enough even if you open the muffler a little.

 

[Mrphillips56]

The 170 and 180 don't have an adjustable carb

I was just basing those two off of their weight, around 8.5 lbs for a min 30cc saw. I couldn’t see an adjustable carb being over a lb of added weight. The 171 weighs just as much as my 440 so would just put a smaller bar on it at that point which seems my most likely route for $45.

 

[lehman live edge slab]

I was just basing those two off of their weight, around 8.5 lbs for a min 30cc saw. I couldn’t see an adjustable carb being over a lb of added weight. The 171 weighs just as much as my 440 so would just put a smaller bar on it at that point which seems my most likely route for $45.

The 171/181/211 are a different family of saw and probably weigh as much as the 210/250. If left stock a 171 doesn’t have any more power than a 170 is like you said a pound heavier. The 171 is spring av not rubber but the 170/180’are tough saws for what they are. The 170/180c probably weigh close to the 171 ect because of the extra rewind stuff

 

[FergusonTO35]

Echo CS-400 with 16" bar and Oregon PXL chain. You can buy a nice one on Fleabay for well under $200.00 total and it has an adjustable oiler. I have two of them and have put many many hours on them with no problems. Unclog the muffler, delimit the carb and you're good to go! I have an MS-250 and, while it is a good little saw, the CS-400 has it beat in every way except a little less power which I don't even notice.

 

[hacskaroly]

I was just basing those two off of their weight, around 8.5 lbs for a min 30cc saw. I couldn’t see an adjustable carb being over a lb of added weight. The 171 weighs just as much as my 440 so would just put a smaller bar on it at that point which seems my most likely route for $45.

You are correct, the adjustable carb does not add a 1 lb of weight. The 171 and 211 are essentially the same saw chassis, just that the 171 has a smaller piston and cylinder. The 171 and 211 both weigh 9.5 lbs, hold 9 oz of B&C oil and 9.1 oz fuel tanks. The 170/180 are the same chassis as each other, with the 170 having smaller piston and cylinder, both have 4.9 oz of B&C oil and 8.5 oz fuel tanks. (The 181 is an outlier, it has the same chassis specs for fuel and oil capacity as the 171/211, but more weight due to the easy start crap and tool-less clutch cover).

The 440 is a great little saw, I have one too, not sure why you would want to have a smaller Stihl if you already have a working 440. But, hey, this forum is full of people with a bunch of saws! FWIW, out of any of the saws 250/251 and below, the only one I would buy would be the 171, I would not take any of the others if they were given to me, unless they were for target practice

 

[Jusgunn3]

Ported 2511-T

 

[Mrphillips56]

The 440 is a great little saw, I have one too, not sure why you would want to have a smaller Stihl if you already have a working 440.

Lighter, ease of convenience. But doesn’t seem to be the case. So will be putting a 13 or 15” bar on the 440. Haven’t decided which yet.

 

[hacskaroly]

For the fun of it one time I put a Milwaukee 7" pole saw bar on 170 at work with a 31 driver 3/8 pico full skip chain. I was surprised it fit and worked. That would be a ripper of a limbing saw!!