sub 10 pound saw options?

[GCJenks204]

Those are prices from June to end of August, the Aussie dollar has dropped even further, so the next lot of prices will be higher. Funny thing, when the Aussie dollar rebounds, they never drop the price back.

You get to add 10% GST (goods and services tax) to those prices.

Yikes, we have 13% tax on ours, with exchange your 661 is about $400 more than ours. If you need anything you should consider Canada only about an 8% exchange difference.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Let's get back to basics. If you have to buy a new saw and stay under 10 lb dry weight, I vote for the Stihl MS180. It weighs dry less than 10 lb, but with a bar, fuel, and bar oil on board, it will weigh a tad more. Several climbers around here carry the 180 into trees with a 16" bar on board rather than use top-handle saws instead.

But, the 10-lb limitation is a bit senseless. There are several quality saws just over that weight that many of us prefer to those that are under it. Sometimes you have to absorb some weight in order to obtain much needed power that allows you to get the job done.

 

[Terry Syd]

every animal is venomous or can eat you

Hell, we even have heaps of PLANTS that can kill you. Never a dull moment...

https://www.australiangeographic.co.../06/gympie-gympie-once-stung-never-forgotten/

 

[GCJenks204]

Let's get back to basics. If you have to buy a new saw and stay under 10 lb dry weight, I vote for the Stihl MS180. It weighs dry less than 10 lb, but with a bar, fuel, and bar oil on board, it will weigh a tad more. Several climbers around here carry the 180 into trees with a 16" bar on board rather than use top-handle saws instead.

But, the 10-lb limitation is a bit senseless. There are several quality saws just over that weight that many of us prefer to those that are under it. Sometimes you have to absorb some weight in order to obtain much needed power that allows you to get the job done.

My first saw was a 180 with the easy start and toolless chain adjuster. I would never consider taking that in a tree of bucket.

 

[Wood Doctor]

My first saw was a 180 with the easy start and toolless chain adjuster. I would never consider taking that in a tree or a bucket.

Neither would I, but that is what some men do. Sometimes big saws show up in a bucket loader or a tree, and sometimes they get dropped. I've fixed several of those dropped saws. Many repair shops would never have tried and I am not sure that I should have.

 

[Woodpecker]

My first saw was a 180 with the easy start and toolless chain adjuster. I would never consider taking that in a tree of bucket.

I gotta agree here too. Back in the day, as they say, I first climbed with a 021. I can't imagine making certain cuts, slice cuts in particular (a cut that requires the chainsaw to have power to perform the cut properly), with a 018/180. As a poor climber I used the 021 until I could afford the recently released 200t. Night and day difference. The 180 is good for what it is as an entry level intermittent use saw. Will it take a beating? Sure, but there are better options out there.. The echo cs400, Dolkita 421, and Stihl 250 come to mind. They all bend the 10# weight limit slightly but sure don't feel like it. If we are talking saws at the 10# neighborhood the echo 501p is hard to beat at 10.4#s for a pro style split mag case. It's a mean mofo stock with just a muffler mod. Ask @Miller Mod Saws what they will do with a good port job!

 

[Al Smith]

There's a bunch of little saws that do a pretty fair job .I've got a bunch of them that run I just don't use them Husqvarna 335's little Echoes a few Poulans ,Stihl 011 even the infamous mini Macs .For me any more it's either a Stihl 200T or 024 for light work .I did however get a larger saw out yesterday to cut a 24" piece of white oak to mount one of my anvils on .The original chunk of red oak finally gave up the ghost after 10 years in the elements .

 

[GCJenks204]

I gotta agree here too. Back in the day, as they say, I first climbed with a 021. I can't imagine making certain cuts, slice cuts in particular (a cut that requires the chainsaw to have power to perform the cut properly), with a 018/180. As a poor climber I used the 021 until I could afford the recently released 200t. Night and day difference. The 180 is good for what it is as an entry level intermittent use saw. Will it take a beating? Sure, but there are better options out there.. The echo cs400, Dolkita 421, and Stihl 250 come to mind. They all bend the 10# weight limit slightly but sure don't feel like it. If we are talking saws at the 10# neighborhood the echo 501p is hard to beat at 10.4#s for a pro style split mag case. It's a mean mofo stock with just a muffler mod. Ask @Miller Mod Saws what they will do with a good port job!

My wife got it for me on “points” and it got the job done. I sold it locally, bought an 026 and had money left over. Some people think newer is better no matter what.

That summer I bought 2 026 for around $200, now you can’t find them for under $300.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I gotta agree here too. Back in the day, as they say, I first climbed with a 021. I can't imagine making certain cuts, slice cuts in particular (a cut that requires the chainsaw to have power to perform the cut properly), with a 018/180. As a poor climber I used the 021 until I could afford the recently released 200t. Night and day difference. The 180 is good for what it is as an entry level intermittent use saw. Will it take a beating? Sure, but there are better options out there.. The echo cs400, Dolkita 421, and Stihl 250 come to mind. They all bend the 10# weight limit slightly but sure don't feel like it. If we are talking saws at the 10# neighborhood the echo 501p is hard to beat at 10.4#s for a pro style split mag case. It's a mean mofo stock with just a muffler mod. Ask @Miller Mod Saws what they will do with a good port job!

Can't disagree with this. I'm not a climber, but do tree work from a bucket albeit I wouldn't consider myself highly experienced yet. I started out using a 335xp at first. But as I got more comfortable up there the 346 or 550 is my saw of choice for those exact reasons. Sometimes you need to lop that limb off quick to help it fall the way you want it to. The little top handle runs out of steam quickly for that as the limbs get to be more than 4 or 5" in diameter. Can't beat it for one handed cut and steer with the other though.

 

[sawfun]

Drill lighten a 346 or 325 Poulan and remove the chainbrake.

 

[huskyboy]

Drill lighten a 346 or 325 Poulan and remove the chainbrake.

Equip a 162se handle too?

 

[Deets066]

Equip a 162se handle too?

Jeezus... let it go

 

[Woodpecker]

My wife got it for me on “points” and it got the job done. I sold it locally, bought an 026 and had money left over. Some people think newer is better no matter what.

That summer I bought 2 026 for around $200, now you can’t find them for under $300.

Great saws! Another saw that I bought when I could afford it. Although I had a few 025's and 021's for the hammer handed knuckle dragging groundies because they were cheap, easy to work on, and replaceable when they were trashed.

Can't disagree with this. I'm not a climber, but do tree work from a bucket albeit I wouldn't consider myself highly experienced yet. I started out using a 335xp at first. But as I got more comfortable up there the 346 or 550 is my saw of choice for those exact reasons. Sometimes you need to lop that limb off quick to help it fall the way you want it to. The little top handle runs out of steam quickly for that as the limbs get to be more than 4 or 5" in diameter. Can't beat it for one handed cut and steer with the other though.

346 and 550 are great sized bucket saws. On removals I usually start with a 25cc then 35cc top handles then 50cc rear and move on up to 60 or 70cc for the spar work depending on the size of the tree. It's a little different hanging off the side of a tree running a saw, but you get used to it.