Important. ...husky 350 loctite 518 vs 1184

[RI Chevy]

Lol

 

[Keith Gandy]

OK. I understand that part. But may make mating upper to lower more secure? Less likely to leak. Easier to take apart down the road.

Your missing my point. If u dont have a lathe to machine base deleting the gasket will yield a higher psi in compression and a gain to performance usually. The only choice if u want the gain is delete the gasket and apply a sealant

 

[jake wells]

Your missing my point. If u dont have a lathe to machine base deleting the gasket will yield a higher psi in compression and a gain to performance usually. The only choice if u want the gain is delete the gasket and apply a sealant

duct tape he he.

 

[Keith Gandy]

OK. I understand that part. But may make mating upper to lower more secure? Less likely to leak. Easier to take apart down the road.

If u have a lathe and can cut enough from the base to accomodate the gasket and achieve desired port timing and compression then use a gasket but sometimes that isnt an option

 

[RI Chevy]

I got you Keith. Lathe was never mentioned here. I was just theoretically speaking.

 

[jake wells]

If u have a lathe and can cut enough from the base to accomodate the gasket and achieve desired port timing and compression then use a gasket but sometimes that isnt an option

lathe? who has time for that ha ha.

 

[Mattyo]

If any of you ever go into dentistry let me know. I think you put more into a saw then my dentist puts into a filling.

uh, I am a dentist...



ok, just to clarify, 518 is perfect for metal to metal base gasket, and for metal / rubber for the intake. there it sticks. 518 is nogo for adhering the aluminum riser to the plastic chassis...

again, I will try to gather more evidence by looking at some other saws that I have done with 518... gotta do pressure tests and see whats up, but after this one incident... I'm worried

 

[RI Chevy]

Thanks Matt.

 

[Mattyo]

and just so everyone knows, I achieve optimal squish on these by machining the riser on the Bridgeport. sometimes I machine the bottom of the riser for optimal flatness as well. yes I do have access to a lathe, but other than machining a popup or two I haven't used it for working on saws.

 

[RIDE-RED 350r]

I have used 518 on other applications and it worked well.. But I too find that Threebond is more versatile and is more of an adhesive above and beyond simply being a sealant than 518.

When snowmobile, dirt bike, and ATV manufacturers use the stuff to seal their crankcases at the factory, well that's gotta tell you something.

 

[Keith Gandy]

I have used 518 on other applications and it worked well.. But I too find that Threebond is more versatile and is more of an adhesive above and beyond simply being a sealant than 518.

When snowmobile, dirt bike, and ATV manufacturers use the stuff to seal their crankcases at the factory, well that's gotta tell you something.

I think if Mattyo used the loctite primer first he wouldnt have a problem but on that plastic Id just use the dirko to be safe

 

[huskihl]

The problem I see Matt, is you joined 2 different materials together that don't expand/contract at exactly the same rate, with a product that appears to get hard as a rock. I think you're on the right track now using 1184 or any non hardening sealant

 

[ABarrick]

I've done a few 350/2150's and used hondabond 4, dirko, and hondabond HT and they've all been working fine. The HT and dirko were much easier to use as they're thicker, but I feel the regular hondabond holds the best. If prepped correctly, you could take the bolts out and it would take some pretty good effort to separate the parts. I have not used 1184 but it should be similar to the three I've tried. Definitely needs to be a flexible compound.

AJ

 

[huskyboy]

I have 1184 on a no base gasket 372bb build and its held up cutting countless trees over the past year abusing it. Holds about 180psi.

 

[Mattyo]

Just to reiterate . ...I'm not taking about metal to metal joints....518 works fine for base gaskets...it's the metal to plastic joint of the 350 clamshell that apparently doesn't work well with 518.

A Husky 372 doesn't have a metal to plastic joint....so 518 or 1184 will work fine.

 

[Mastermind]

I've started using Dirko. The 518 is just so picky about primers, surface prep, etc.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

kinda worried about the primer going everywhere...

believe me, I really like the idea of the anaerobic....but after this one issue, I'm convinced 1184 for the base is important...

it wasn't leaking in one spot, the whole base was a leak. and the base bolts were tight. even if the riser wasn't flat, it would be leaking in one spot ... no.. the whole thing here.

Matt, the primer comes in a bottle with a brush tip, as well as the spray. We use it at work all the time. I agree with @Keith Gandy. There is a big difference in the final outcome when you use the primer. Shorter curing time and better adhesion. I have a buddy who works for Henkel, and he hooks me up with whatever I need, or answers questions I have. If anyone here has any questions about Loctite products, let me know, and I'll relay it to him. He takes it all to the engineers. Nothing better than getting answers from the guys inventing the stuff.

 

[Keith Gandy]

Matt, the primer comes in a bottle with a brush tip, as well as the spray. We use it at work all the time. I agree with @Keith Gandy. There is a big difference in the final outcome when you use the primer. Shorter curing time and better adhesion. I have a buddy who works for Henkel, and he hooks me up with whatever I need, or answers questions I have. If anyone here has any questions about Loctite products, let me know, and I'll relay it to him. He takes it all to the engineers. Nothing better than getting answers from the guys inventing the stuff.
View attachment 42662

Good stuff. I have the spray and brush on

 

[Keith Gandy]

Matt, the primer comes in a bottle with a brush tip, as well as the spray. We use it at work all the time. I agree with @Keith Gandy. There is a big difference in the final outcome when you use the primer. Shorter curing time and better adhesion. I have a buddy who works for Henkel, and he hooks me up with whatever I need, or answers questions I have. If anyone here has any questions about Loctite products, let me know, and I'll relay it to him. He takes it all to the engineers. Nothing better than getting answers from the guys inventing the stuff.
View attachment 42662

Could u ask what they recommend for metal to plastic? Thanks

 

[Mattyo]

ya, please ask that question....

the plastic used is quite impressive I think....