Husky 395XP carb limiters?

[two4spooky]

OEM Poulan tool arrived. I think it will work but yet to try it. About to do a MM. Will give it a try afterwards. The AM tool is on left(shiney) with the OEM on the right. Hard to see the difference with this pic but OEM looks smaller

 

[two4spooky]

Little better pic? Maybe? May just mash the AM tool splined end in the bench vise and see how that works

 

[Nutball]

I've smashed the AM with success, just have to go easy as to not strip/slip it.

What happened to right to repair? Tractor owners need access to software, and we need access to a simple tool of basic maintenance that used to be included in the manual.

 

[huskihl]

Hey Shaun, if you can remember, slip a piece of tubing in when you send the PM700 cylinder back. I bought a new Husqvarna BV125 and it has the larger spline screws. I found I could move them with the large PacMan tool but it takes a lot of effort.

Mark

If you can get the Pac-Man to remove the jets, you can grind a slight flat spot on one side and it will fit. Or at least mine did

 

[two4spooky]

I have the "Pac-Man" driver and for me, yes the "Pac-Man" driver worked. Kudos @huskihl for this hack. But with the Pac-Man tool I was using more inward force during adjustment than I like and second guessing my adjustments if the saw was not running and audible while tuning.

Got it done but still wanting a more tactile/measurable feel before/after the adjustment. I'm just a bit anal, one of those "-ism's" on my part I guess

May still remove the adjusters and slot them with a Dremel

 

[two4spooky]

Okay, while we are here: muffler is off, WCS deflector(1 1/8"x 2 1/8" size) in hand to mount in front(directly in front, same side) of the stock exit. Leaving the internal muffler parts.

#1) What size to drill for the WCS port: Two 1/4" holes? Two 3/8"? or what? OEM opening looks to be about ~5/8" to 3/4" or so and #2) What about the factory 90* piece in/below the medieval castle turret toothed OEM deflector? Bend it, cut off or leave as-is? Milling, torque and heat reduction is the goal. Low(9-10k) RPM torque not screaming RPM cant monster kind of saw. Milling hardwood with a 36" bar

 

[two4spooky]

Okay, while we are here: muffler is off, WCS deflector(1 1/8"x 2 1/8" size) in hand to mount in front(directly in front, same side) of the stock exit. Leaving the internal muffler parts.

#1) What size to drill for the WCS port: Two 1/4" holes? Two 3/8"? or what? and #2) What about the factory 90* piece in/below the medieval castle turret toothed OEM deflector? Bend it, cut off or leave as-is? Milling, torque and heat reduction is the goal. Low(9-10k) RPM torque not screaming RPM cant monster kind of saw. Milling hardwood with a 36" bar

Where I'm at. Waiting for advice or opinions

 

[two4spooky]

 

[huskihl]

Where I'm at. Waiting for advice or opinionsView attachment 450454View attachment 450455

I would open up a hole the size of the inside of the deflector

 

[two4spooky]

Hoping this is more or less what you are suggesting @huskihl. Looking for heat reduction, torque and power head longevity for milling. Trusting in your experience

 

[two4spooky]

 

[two4spooky]

 

[two4spooky]

Both spark screens in place. Just looking for longevity, cooling and torque for milling. Looks okay to me. Opinions welcome and thanks to those who add

 

[two4spooky]

View attachment 450603
Both spark screens in place. Just looking for longevity, cooling and torque for milling. Looks okay to me. Opinions welcome and thanks to those who add

Final results:

 

[Jusgunn3]

Looks great to me, I am going to try something similar on my 350/346xp.

 

[Nutball]

View attachment 450603
Both spark screens in place. Just looking for longevity, cooling and torque for milling. Looks okay to me. Opinions welcome and thanks to those who add

I think more power = more heat, but I've never verified stock vs ported cyl & muff temps. Just mill in cool weather.

Too rich will also put more heat in the muffler, which can radiate into other parts of the saw.

 

[Shane¹]

@two4spooky I would agree that looks well done and should definitely help with milling. Muffler mod helps get heat away from the saw during milling which is what you need. I would run on the rich side gets more oil to everything. From my little milling experience I would say it is most important to keep the chain sharp even so than with regular cutting. Go slow and give the saw breaks. I also like to point a cordless leaf blower on low at the log while milling it helps keep smoke and sawdust out of your face

 

[huskihl]

View attachment 450601

That’ll do pig, that’ll do

 

[Tor R]

View attachment 450602

View attachment 450603
Both spark screens in place. Just looking for longevity, cooling and torque for milling. Looks okay to me. Opinions welcome and thanks to those who add

Beautifully done!

 

[two4spooky]

Yeah

That’ll do pig, that’ll do

Much appreciation. Yeah, my little free time today for side hobbies and interest usually comes late in the evening after work and after daily responsibilities are met. And yes, too often after enjoying a few drinks. I'm sure it is obvious. Pardon my recent, sideways and often rambling post. Just a carry-over of a hobby and previous employment from my younger days. Thanks for understanding. Many thanks