High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

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sixonetonoffun

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Impulse purchase came today. Still not sure why I opted for the 2019 372xpg over the 572xpg. Not a huge price difference. No regrets but in hindsight autotune might be nice in the cold once it's running.
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OutrageousBob

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Hi guys, I just split the cases on a 359. I'm curious as to what the bearings might be.(MFG) they are 8 ball steel cage but have zero markings. Look to be 6202-c3's. I have NTN 6202's that are 7 ball and are doing fine in my 372xt. Might put them in this build although I gather 7 balls are frowned upon...
 

Sawrain

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Hi people,
I was wondering if anyone has a klg/dwf report of the 395xp I cannot find it?
 

justoldsaws

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A few pics of a 288XP Hightop I've been working on, when I got the saw the hightop cover was almost brown in color, I pressure washed it, wet sanded with 400grit, then steel wool rubdown, finally a coat of Bristol paints clear gloss, one more final coat tomorrow and that will do it.20200416_154245.jpg
 

simsponsawshop

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Current build. Husky 350. I have an OEM 346xp top end that is going on it. Hopefully make a little screamer out of it.
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PogoInTheWoods

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288 looks good. How's it run? lol

And 350's can be little screamers in their own right. They just burn up from inherent air leaks and melt holes through the oil tank when the mufflers rattle loose. Loctite and 346 muffler brackets help the latter. Using the correct bolts and sealing everything well on the shortblock certainly helps there also. Beware of how the surfaces mate at the bearings/seals especially. Do a pressure/vac test before committing to putting the rest of the saw back together. May save you some time in the long run (and that new 346 top end).
 

PogoInTheWoods

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There is certainly a market for em since the' insert under the tabs' idea wasn't exactly one of Husky's better ones. Any graphics shop should be able to crank those out by the hundreds for pennies apiece.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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I have one, thanks. LOL A guy I know who does vinyl signs and wraps and stickers and stuff says if he had an original he could knock out a gazillion copies of either the insert style or vinyl stickers (with the stickers being easiest and cheapest). No resizing necessary using an original and the shades of black and white would be more 'authentic'. Anyone with a decent vinyl cutter could do the same thing.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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And speaking of 350's (and that series), here's something to check for if yours has a leak or you're rebuilding one. (I bring this up whenever the opportunity arises.) Early ones didn't have this bevel and the bearing covering / seal material tended to bunch/pinch together at the seam between the riser and engine housing creating an air leak. The same would hold true putting a 346 top end on a 350 'case'. Also, aftermarket risers and engine housings need to be checked for the bevel. If they're not there, create them..., aftermarket or OEM. Thanks to @Tor R for bringing this to light a while back.

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There were also different types of fasteners used for holding the bottoms of these saws and cylinders together with different lengths and threads. Using the wrong ones can create issues. @Mattyo has a few good vids with some good tips on these saws for anyone who hasn't run across them already. Pretty sure that's where I learned about the fastener issues. Maybe he'll chime in with the details.
 

Mattyo

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One thing I've found to do... those metal inserts stick up a bit and are not level with the plastic...the plastic housing can end up pulling away from the metal, so it all needs to be leveled out. I think this is much more important than leveling the metal riser. If the plastic is pulled away a bit from the metal inserts, then there is a significant gap. gotta be checked, and filed or sanded flat imho. I used magic marker last time to check for the high spots between the riser block and the plastic/metal inserts. MUST let the 1184 or whatever you use for goop to tack up for a while. its needs to have some thickness.

nice post aout the bevels...interesting
 
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