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Why not a 353xp top end on a 55 chassis?
I've been tinking with a few 55s lately and it's looks like an easy hybrid.
Am I missing something?
 

Partner

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I have flood water H42 and H44 which is missing parts
 

Spike60

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Why not a 353xp top end on a 55 chassis?
I've been tinking with a few 55s lately and it's looks like an easy hybrid.
Am I missing something?

Awful lot of trouble for likely no gain at all. At best it's a tie.

The "things to overcome" list is a doozey. Diagonal muffler bolts will mean a 55 muffler cannot be used. Intake is completely different. Going with the 353 intake may not allow the 353 air filter to fit under the top cover. Choke, switch, kill wire are all different. Choke levers on opposite sides, as are the carb adjustment screws. Throttle links come in from different sides. Dimensions to allow proper trigger action may be hard to achieve. Plastic ends are also different as the 353 link sticks in the tank and the 55 link passes through a guide in the case. There is no provision for the 353 carb controls to pass through the case/top cover either.

That's just of the top of my head. Would need to look up thongs like stroke, wrist pin bearing,whatever. I wouldn't want any bit of this project. Besides, I think a 55 will outcut a 353 anyway.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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Just stick with the 55 and don't look back. A closed port top end version used to be considered one of the Holy Grails of saws but there were actually a lot of em out there. The hybrid top ends (sorta open port/sorta closed port) yield very solid performance even stock if you're looking for a top end solution. Much tougher saw all the way around in conventional Husky fashion anyway. Some fundamental port work will do a lot for em.

I love all the 50 series Huskys. LOL

1-0518141212a.jpg
 
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Spike60

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The closed port top ends are sought after like you say. Probably their hard to find uniqueness has a lot to do with it. IMO, the performance difference isn't as great as the hype would lead one to believe, but it's there.

And, if that's your thing, there are some other options in the family that you can consider. The 51/55 top end design is from the Partner side of the family. (Ever wonder why they are all tapped for a top av mount that they never had?) There are actually quite a few between the 3 brands.

The closed port ones in question are from the Jonsered 490/Partner 5000 and Jonsered 590/Partner 5000+. Anyone who has worked on those saws will recognize the commonality with the 55 series. I popped a 490 top end on a 51 and it runs real sweet. Muffler being the only mod. Accelerates real quick. I'll see if I can get a pick up.
 
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Spike60

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This is a 44mm kit from a Jonny 490. 44mm kits fit every saw in the family. All of the 45 and 46 mm kits only fit the saws from about 1987? That's just a guess without looking it up. This was from when the 50 became the 50 Special. All saws had to have the crankcase hole enlarged to accept the bigger cylinders.

20230202_115617.jpg20230202_115546.jpg
 

Spike60

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Are H42 parts suitable for H44?

Not sure I understand the question. But if you are asking about the 42/242xp family and the 44/444 family, they are completely different. Pretty much nothing interchanges between them.
 

PogoInTheWoods

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The closed port ones in question are from the Jonsered 490/Partner 5000 and Jonsered 590/Partner 5000+. Anyone who has worked on those saws will recognize the commonality with the 55 series. I popped a 490 top end on a 51 and it runs real sweet. Muffler being the only mod. Accelerates real quick. I'll see if I can get a pick up.

You may recall the thread that contained this video -- along with quite a bit of discussion on the subject above. Not my video. I just downloaded it back then to share with someone else at the time and still happen to have it. Closed port vs. open port shootout as I recall?

 

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Thanks guys I was just wondering, I fixed/rebuilt a 300yr anniversary 50 for a coworker and decided to hunt scrapyards for one of my own and found a 95' 55.
It's got a 46mm open port with a decomp and didn't really think it would be worth messing with.
 

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Once you understand and get past their intake design debacle they're a great firewood saw and fun to work on..., probably one of the easiest saws to learn a lot from as a first rebuild.

The next thing folks figure out is ending up with a disappointing squish of ~.036 after a base gasket delete is countered by the dinky ass combustion chamber for around 160lbs of compression anyway.
 
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Maintenance Chief

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Once you understand and get past their intake design debacle they're a great firewood saw and fun to work on..., probably one of the easiest saws to learn a lot from as a first rebuild.

The next thing folks figure out is ending up with a disappointing squish of ~.036 after a base gasket delete is countered by the dinky ass combustion chamber for around for 160lbs of compression anyway.

It was missing the starter and the bar adjustment screw , but 20$ brought her home.
It looks to have very little use but I split the case to replace the gasket, leaking by the oil tank.
 
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