Woodslasher
Teh debil
- Local time
- 5:03 PM
- User ID
- 15993
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2021
- Messages
- 3,367
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- Location
- Commiefornia
Maybe use some permatex and do a base gasket delete? Or sealer and a base gasket?
I guess I can try that, it's kinda what I was thinking might work.Maybe use some permatex and do a base gasket delete? Or sealer and a base gasket?
A question for our Scandinavian friends - is the Husky 133se/sg commonly found over there? Or is it just as rare there as it seems to be here?
Barry
Ok, in order: The p/n for the screw is 503932801. You can replace the front tensioner with a side one, just pull all the old tensioner parts out first.Quite a few questions for the collective here. Working on tuning up my father-in-law's 365 and 36. He got the 365 back some 20+ years ago and has never done anything to it besides put gas, oil, and a new chain on it every now and again. It has the front facing chain tensioner and at some point someone forcefully tried to tighten the chain without loosening the bar nuts and bent the screw. Does anyone has a part number for the front mount chain tensioner. I've been scouring the internet and can only seem to find the side tensioner version. This leads me to my next question, has anyone ever replaced the front mount chain tensioner with a side mount, ie: replacing the clutch cover with the side mount version? Has anyone used an aftermarket cover? Specifically the hyway version that includes the side chain adjuster, probably will just go that route if i know it works. I really do hate the front mount chain tensioner . On to the 36, it has no spark at all, was going to start by checking the gap on the ignition coil, does anyone know distance? I did a quick Google search and saw someone say .008". I then found a pdf manual posted by someone that said .3mm(.012), don't think it was a husqvarna manual though. Just looking for a definitive answer, or perhaps if I'm in that range it doesn't matter? I know this is a lengthy post but if anyone actually reads this far I really appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any help!
Ok, in order: The p/n for the screw is 503932801. You can replace the front tensioner with a side one, just pull all the old tensioner parts out first.
A/m covers are chit, my brother had one that came on his 365 and the f-er quit working midway through the day when we were out on a clearing job. As a stop-gap measure my brother pulled on the bar and I cinched down the bar nuts, but we tossed the a/m cover in the trash as soon as the saw got back to the shop. Oem parts are the only way to go for important stuff. If you want an oem side-tensioner cover, I've got a pretty nice one off of a 390 I'd sell.
For your 36, use a business card first. If it won't spark, drop it to .008. If it still won't spark the coil is probably shot.
I would upgrade to 266, 268,272…or one of us with a lathe could clean it up.I guess I can try that, it's kinda what I was thinking might work.
If it don't work, I figured I'd put a Hyway 272 pop up kit on it.
Quite a few questions for the collective here. Working on tuning up my father-in-law's 365 and 36. He got the 365 back some 20+ years ago and has never done anything to it besides put gas, oil, and a new chain on it every now and again. It has the front facing chain tensioner and at some point someone forcefully tried to tighten the chain without loosening the bar nuts and bent the screw. Does anyone has a part number for the front mount chain tensioner. I've been scouring the internet and can only seem to find the side tensioner version. This leads me to my next question, has anyone ever replaced the front mount chain tensioner with a side mount, ie: replacing the clutch cover with the side mount version? Has anyone used an aftermarket cover? Specifically the hyway version that includes the side chain adjuster, probably will just go that route if i know it works. I really do hate the front mount chain tensioner . On to the 36, it has no spark at all, was going to start by checking the gap on the ignition coil, does anyone know distance? I did a quick Google search and saw someone say .008". I then found a pdf manual posted by someone that said .3mm(.012), don't think it was a husqvarna manual though. Just looking for a definitive answer, or perhaps if I'm in that range it doesn't matter? I know this is a lengthy post but if anyone actually reads this far I really appreciate it. Thanks in advance for any help!
Yup you nailed it !I really like my MOFO 262XP. Smooth, lots of power, good fuel economy, great oiling, great air filtration. Makes bucking 20 inch logs fun.
It's just that front chain tensioner thing.
I’ve got an old 3-in-1 oil bottle full of mix oil that I use. I’ll pour a bit of oil on each bearing and once the jug is over the piston I’ll dump a fair bit in through the plug hole and voila! It’s good to go!So I've got my father-in-law's 365 on the bench, tore it completely down to case halves, first saw I've ever split. Just curious what everyone's preferred method to lubricate the bottom end and the p/c is before firing up the saw for the first time is? Any ideas are greatly appreciated
Thats a great idea, thanks slasher.I’ve got an old 3-in-1 oil bottle full of mix oil that I use. I’ll pour a bit of oil on each bearing and once the jug is over the piston I’ll dump a fair bit in through the plug hole and voila! It’s good to go!
Wipe some mix oil around.So I've got my father-in-law's 365 on the bench, tore it completely down to case halves, first saw I've ever split. Just curious what everyone's preferred method to lubricate the bottom end and the p/c is before firing up the saw for the first time is? Any ideas are greatly appreciated