High Quality Chainsaw Bars Husqvarna Toys Hockfire Saws

HUSQVARNA HUSQVARNA THREAD

Benwa

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View attachment 315247Can anyone give me any info on this little 36. Followed me home for free yesterday. This is my first husqvarna.
They have a poor intake boot design (not a very positive fit) that is prone to leaking. I seal 'em up with motoseal or the like. There is also a small "bushing/tube" that the nipple for the impulse passage in the intake partition fits into. It is prone to deterioration and causing air leaks as well. The one thing nice about these clamshell saws, once the clutch is off the whole engine just comes out. If there comes a day where you want more power or just need a replacement, any of the poulan p600 engine family can be swapped in as a direct bolt in. Poulan 2500, 2600, 2700, 2750, 2775, 3050, PP255, PP295, PP4620, PP310, PP315 can all be swapped into a husqvarna 36,136,141, or 142 as far as I know. I like the husqvarna anti-vibe much better, but you can pretty much swap any of the mufflers, intakes, filters, carbs, etc. between these saws. Makes finding parts pretty easy.
 
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PogoInTheWoods

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They have a poor intake boot design (not a very positive fit) that is prone to leaking. There is also a small "bushing/tube" that the nipple for the impulse passage in the intake partition fits into.

That same design is the most common point of failure for the 50, 51, 55 saws. Lack of attention to detail when replacing those parts is probably the second most common. LOL

It's pretty easy to pinch the impulse pipe at the cylinder passage when fitting the partition to the cylinder if both the impulse pipe and intake boot/sleeve are already in/on the cylinder. I've found it much easier to put the intake boot/sleeve on the partition and the tube in the cylinder. You can then start the fitment by inserting the impulse tube into the pipe at a slight downward angle to initiate your fit there and then rock the partition upward to work the intake boot/tube onto the cylinder. A good impulse connection is almost guaranteed going this route. Otherwise, you're sort of just going blind shoving it together in a linear fashion and can skew the impulse tube connection while trying to work the intake boot onto the cylinder.
 

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What did your muffler mod entail? I just tossed the spark arrestor in the box of misfit parts and pried the slot in the side open wider with a big flathead. I'm sure theres more flow to be had but it was just a quick job before I took to the woods today.View attachment 315467
I just dremeled in a slot and made a gill.
 

Benwa

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Alright, 3120xp question. The parts diagram shows this part. Oil pump worm gear assembly. Part number 503896201.
Screenshot_20211114-210223_Samsung Internet.jpg

This is what came out of my 1997. I have the brass/ bronze worm gear. My question is about the plastic piece that's supposed to be with it.
There is this that looks like a seal of some sort

20211114_153620.jpg

There is also this plastic piece. Obviously slightly melted.
20211114_153635.jpg
20211114_153639.jpg

This is how it was oriented when it came off the saw.
20211114_153705.jpg

So my question is, did they change this part from the older versions? Is mine the same just melted/ F'ed? Would the one shown in the first picture work even though it's missing the "seal piece" that mine had? I can only find a parts diagram for models 2003- current, so I'm hoping one of you can shed some light, or share a part number of what I need if its different. Thanks in advance.
 

Woodslasher

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Alright, 3120xp question. The parts diagram shows this part. Oil pump worm gear assembly. Part number 503896201.
View attachment 316082

This is what came out of my 1997. I have the brass/ bronze worm gear. My question is about the plastic piece that's supposed to be with it.
There is this that looks like a seal of some sort

View attachment 316085

There is also this plastic piece. Obviously slightly melted.
View attachment 316086
View attachment 316087

This is how it was oriented when it came off the saw.
View attachment 316088

So my question is, did they change this part from the older versions? Is mine the same just melted/ F'ed? Would the one shown in the first picture work even though it's missing the "seal piece" that mine had? I can only find a parts diagram for models 2003- current, so I'm hoping one of you can shed some light, or share a part number of what I need if its different. Thanks in advance.
So, that rubber bit is what was used in the early 181/281/288 oilers. The 3120 was introduced in 88, so that makes sense. According to the service book, there was an oiler upgrade drive system upgrade. From the looks of things, the new washer has a replacement for the rubber bit molded in. The drum #'s are the same between the updates, so I'd say if you bought the new kit there shouldn't be any issues.
Screen Shot 2021-11-14 at 9.32.19 PM.png
Screen Shot 2021-11-14 at 9.36.39 PM.png
 

Benwa

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@Woodslasher thank you for the promp response. I just had my 181 apart a couple weeks ago. I knew I'd seen this design recently, but I couldn't place it. Talk about short term memory. I was hoping to just buy the plastic piece as the whole kit with worm gear is $60, but it looks like it only comes in the kit currently. I'll try and track down the old ring now that I have a part number. Again, thanks for the info and swift response. Much appreciated.
 

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Doesn't it sorta depend on which drive sprocket setup is involved? It looks like there are spline indentations on the one side of the chewed up piece -- which is what part #? I have a 1989 IPL I could check.
 

Benwa

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Doesn't it sorta depend on which drive sprocket setup is involved? It looks like there are spline indentations on the one side of the chewed up piece -- which is what part #? I have a 1989 IPL I could check.

It's just melted. The "splines" aren't supposed to be there. It's just a smooth plastic ring (like a big washer) usually. The Part number for the melted piece is 501598201. They do not sell the individual parts that I have anymore. They sell a kit with the worm gear and the new style plastic piece together. I'm going to see if I can't track one down though.
 

Woodslasher

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Here's a little bit of interesting info about the 372 stock clutch covers and the silver 572 "wide" covers, in case anyone has ever wondered if there is a significant difference. This is cross-posted from a thread on AS, fyi.

I finally remembered to measure the gap between the inside edge of the cover and the saw's body on my OE XPW (w/gray wide cover) and my dad's plain OE (orange narrow cover). From the case half to the inside edge of the cover was 3/4" w/the plain cover, and it was 1 1/8" w/the wide cover. From the edge of the tank to the inside edge of the cover was 1 5/8" w/the plain cover, and it was 2 1/16" w/the wide cover. Both saws' tanks and case halves should be the same, the only difference is the covers.
 

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Here's a little bit of interesting info about the 372 stock clutch covers and the silver 572 "wide" covers, in case anyone has ever wondered if there is a significant difference. This is cross-posted from a thread on AS, fyi.

I finally remembered to measure the gap between the inside edge of the cover and the saw's body on my OE XPW (w/gray wide cover) and my dad's plain OE (orange narrow cover). From the case half to the inside edge of the cover was 3/4" w/the plain cover, and it was 1 1/8" w/the wide cover. From the edge of the tank to the inside edge of the cover was 1 5/8" w/the plain cover, and it was 2 1/16" w/the wide cover. Both saws' tanks and case halves should be the same, the only difference is the covers.
There's another difference20200129_142719.jpg
I bought a couple of 572 fullwraps
Just to get the wide clutch covers and
Spike kits
Only 30.00 each shipped back then
But they are different from the newer 572s
 

Maintenance Chief

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There's another differenceView attachment 317820
I bought a couple of 572 fullwraps
Just to get the wide clutch covers and
Spike kits
Only 30.00 each shipped back then
But they are different from the newer 572s

Whats the difference?, I'm dense.
 

Benwa

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I guess at $30 for a whole kit, it's a no brainer. In all honesty to those that run them, does the 3/8" wider "wide cover" make a noticeable difference in chip clearance aside from noodling?
 
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