Husqvarna 357/359 Repair Thread.

[davidwyby]

Be careful with your wire routing

 

[Spike60]

Both wires should be under the clip, but above the air conductor. Here's a pic of one of my clean ones.

 

[davidwyby]

@Spike60 I didn't like the kink in the wire right where the eye is crimped on so I stuffed it through the hole where the clip is. Also pretty much guarantees the wire can't get over under the screw.

 

[Spike60]

Doesn't matter what you like, that's a violation just the same. Gonna have to give you a demerit.

 

[Mastermind]

Doesn't matter what you like, that's a violation just the same. Gonna have to give you a demerit.

Red Repped his ass.

 

[Spike60]

Couple of service bulletins I thought would go good on this thread. Most will already know about the changes, but it's sometimes helpful to know the serial number breaks when they happened. The auto deco was an idea that didn't work to well. A year or so before they bagged it altogether, they tried an improved valve. But they just got rid of starting with this.

 

[Spike60]

There were also parts to convert existing saws to the normal valve, or just use a plug. I converted every one I could get my hand on.

 

[pbillyi69]

i would also add to the carb update if you are drilling a hole in the cover you can leave out the plastic ring you just need shorter screws for the cover

 

[heimannm]

I realize this is a veteran thread, but the information is invaluable. I had a 359 come in last week that needed both carburetor work and the clamp replaced.

Between Tree Monkey's and davidwyby's carburetor videos and Poge's clamp information I was able to make this one operational again.

I had to add my own touch as well; one of the carburetor screws stripped out the plastic flange so I decided to install Heli-Coils and it worked. I know I could have located a replacement flange but that would have required waiting and I had the Heli-Coils on hand.





Before it came to me, someone had already made an improvised chassis repair.







Thanks to all.

Mark

 

[Mastermind]

I realize this is a veteran thread, but the information is invaluable. I had a 359 come in last week that needed both carburetor work and the clamp replaced.

Between Tree Monkey's and davidwyby's carburetor videos and Poge's clamp information I was able to make this one operational again.

I had to add my own touch as well; one of the carburetor screws stripped out the plastic flange so I decided to install Heli-Coils and it worked. I know I could have located a replacement flange but that would have required waiting and I had the Heli-Coils on hand.

View attachment 426324

View attachment 426325

Before it came to me, someone had already made an improvised chassis repair.

View attachment 426326

View attachment 426327

View attachment 426328

Thanks to all.

Mark

Great idea Mark.

 

[davidwyby]

Helicoils definite upgrade to plastic

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hey fellas. Long time...

I tried helicoils years ago in what we've all seen as the commonly hogged out 55 intake bulkheads. I haven't looked back since.

That said, care still must be taken depending on the amount of real estate and structural integrity of the available material..., especially with these particular style intakes as shown in post #119. And those plastic threads were still strong enough to effectuate the stress cracks shown, probably with some able assistance from me attempting to torque the fasteners just a hair more to conquer the leak. Uhhhh... no. LOL

Major lesson learned on that one.

 

[Mastermind]

Hey fellas. Long time...

I tried helicoils years ago in what we've all seen as the commonly hogged out 55 intake bulkheads. I haven't looked back since.

That said, care still must be taken depending on the amount of real estate and structural integrity of the available material..., especially with these particular style intakes as shown in post #119. And those plastic threads were still strong enough to effectuate the stress cracks shown, probably with some able assistnce from me attempting to torque the fasteners just a hair more to conquer the leak. Uhhhh... no. LOL

Major lesson learned on that one.

Well howdy.

 

[heimannm]

Paying proper tribute to Poge.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks Mark, but is that even possible? LOL

The credit actually belongs to @Termitebuffet from quite some time ago on another forum in another universe far, far away comprised primarily of barnyard animals and devoid of all but the rarest of adult human activity.

Nice to see there are still a few here. ( Hi, Randy. )

 

[M2theB]

Hey fellas. Long time...

I tried helicoils years ago in what we've all seen as the commonly hogged out 55 intake bulkheads. I haven't looked back since.

That said, care still must be taken depending on the amount of real estate and structural integrity of the available material..., especially with these particular style intakes as shown in post #119. And those plastic threads were still strong enough to effectuate the stress cracks shown, probably with some able assistance from me attempting to torque the fasteners just a hair more to conquer the leak. Uhhhh... no. LOL

Major lesson learned on that one.

That is definitely an application that could use it. 55 bulkheads are so easy to strip before you know you’ve done it

 

[Stump Shot]

That is definitely an application that could use it. 55 bulkheads are so easy to strip before you know you’ve done it

One trick that helps immensely with threaded fasteners into plastic, is to always turn the fastener counterclockwise or backwards slowly until you feel it click and drop into the threads already made, then turn it in. This will all but eliminate pulling the threads out, unless someone else crossed the fastener in prior and set you up for failure, there's no defense for this.