Husqvarna 2100 thread

[MERR6267]

The oil is delivered through plastic (rubber) lines behind from the tank/handle assembly and the crankcase. You might want to check those, as the oil will leak around the area. The pump arrangement is such that there are 2 lines from the tank, one that pushes oil from the thumb oiler and the other that the crank driven pump pulls from the tank. A little air leak in on hose or barb will be like drinking through a straw with a crack in it. Also check the small oring that seals the oil pump to the draw tube as it can suck air there too.

At this point I can't remember if you've had this unit apart this far, so forgive me if you've already been down that road.

Take care,
Phill

 

[Brewz]

Thanks for the tips Phill
That helps!

I have has it all apart but obviously its not gone back together as intended.

I am thinking its sucking air as you said, stopping the oil flow, all the lines flow fine

 

[Brewz]

Can anyone help me with the exact size of the oring that goes on the oil pump to seal on the outer bearing surface of the case?

All the ips's show the part number but not the physical size

 

[Brewz]

Did some research on the o-ring that goes on the oil pump to seal the case on the outer bearing housing.
I got a 35 x 2mm o-ring and I felt it was a bit big and may be holding the pump up causing it to leak from the tank when laying on its side and suck air stopping the pump...... pumping.

It turns out the o-ring is actually 32.1mm x 1.6mm and I just ordered a pack of 10.

I recon this will fix it.

Also going to pull the muffler and double check the oil lines behind it.

 

[hseII]

I am also thinking of removing the chain brake that doesnt work properly.

Its ugly, dont work and its not a saw I will be carrying around wearing a 42" bar needing the chain brake on.

To be honest, I never use the chain brake on any of my smaller saws anyway

Send it to me then.

 

[Brewz]

Send it to me then.

haha I will pack it with all the hens teeth, rocking horse poop and gold nuggets I have laying around taking up space in the corners

The other reason I am considering removing it is to stop it getting broken.

Can you get aftermarket chain covers?

 

[hseII]

haha I will pack it with all the hens teeth, rocking horse poop and gold nuggets I have laying around taking up space in the corners

The other reason I am considering removing it is to stop it getting broken.

Can you get aftermarket chain covers?

Why do you want an aftermarket when you can have OEM?

 

[Brewz]

Do share?
From where?
How much?

 

[Brewz]

Oh..... to add to my video.
I went and checked the chain I got for the 42" bar which is the same as the chain I used in the video on the 30" bar.
Its not expensive chain but works really well for the price.
The off the role chain is about as sharp as a plastic spoon, which would explain the less than expected performance.
The timber is stinking hard but it should have cut better than it did.

When i get the oil pump issue sorted I will run a file over the chain to make it sharp for a showdown on that log.

 

[flying pig]

Workin good! Had dad watch a video of it running the other day. He said it still wasn't lean enough. Ha ha. He corrected me too, when he was falling professionally he had five of these at one time, and wasn't sure how many he went through in total. I'll try to post the video of it milling.

It's running better every time we go out. It's starting much better when it's hot. Still priming it cold but I'll try it dry next time out and see if it'll go. It should I'd think, the way it's running now.

Edit: went down tonight and tried it dead cold, three pulls and she was running. I think it's getting closer.

 

[flying pig]

 

[Daserlon]

Anyone have an idea what great condtion swed-o-matic chain brake for a 2100 is worth?

 

[Brewz]

If we could find them we would probably know

 

[Marshy]

Anyone have an idea what great condtion swed-o-matic chain brake for a 2100 is worth?

Check eBay for recently sold ones. I've seen them go for about a hundo.

 

[Brewz]

Solved the oiler issue today.
It was exactly what I suspected.
I fitted up the correct 1.6mm thick o-ring and the pump now seats deep enough the seal the suction points to the case.

Fired it up, ran it for 10 to 20 seconds and the chain was dripping oil

Very happy.

I have sharpened the chain so just need time to test it now.

 

[flying pig]

How hard should the handguard have to get tapped in order to set the brake off on the 2100? I read the 2101xp manual the other day and it had mentioned a drop test to confirm brake operation but I can't see anything to actuate this in my 2100's brake design. It appears that the handguard has to be hit by the operators hand? Anyway, it wasn't working at all, so I tore it down and tightened it all up. I carefully did a bit of a trigger job on the sear and got it so that it kicks off with a light but sharp tap to the handguard. It locks it up solid. Is this about as good as it gets for these ones?

Tuning is pretty well there I think. It four strokes as soon as you pull it back from the wood. It idles nice, with no chain movement. Great throttle response. It pulls very hard now, probably another 30% faster than it cut before. Also it takes 3 pulls to start now. One to prime, next with the choke gets a couple pops, then the third with no choke fires it right up. Loving this thing!

 

[flying pig]

Do the ring pins go to the exhaust side on these saws? Every other two stroke I've ever worked on went ring gaps to intake side. I checked when I put the piston in this thing and the gaps didn't end up over a port and it's running good so I assumed that they went that way. Then I saw on another forum they mentioned them going to exhaust.

Edit: I went and looked at my old piston, what was said over there is clearly BS as the ring overlap is too close to center, they would catch on the exhaust port.

 

[flying pig]

Brewz, would you mind if I carried the thread on with my own restoration? I've decided to go that route. Got lucky and found a fellow with a like new cylinder and crank, and a used but useable (better than my missing one!) air filter cover. I'm going to get together the rest of the parts over the next few months and do a full restoration on it this winter. I do restorations on rifles as a hobby, and have done a bit of restoration work on a few lathes. I'm also a fourth year HET apprentice as well, and do some hobby machining so this should be right up my alley.

 

[Brewz]

Hell no, go for it mate.
Mine is done and it would be great to see the threw kept active.

I also have a 2101 I will be rebuilding in this thread.

 

[flying pig]

Awesome, I'm sure I'll have a million questions as its all new to me.

The first batch of parts came today. The cylinder is very smooth. I'm going to take some measurements in it to see how much wear there actually is in it. The crank looks very good, but again it's going to get inspected.

I rebuilt the carb last night. The RK-23HS kit has been replaced by the RK-21HS kit according to my dealer. The only difference I found in the kit was that the end of the needle and seat lever doesn't go into a slotted button on the diaphragm anymore. Looks like it just sits on the end of the lever now. I'll try it this morning, I kept the old lever and diaphragm though. Dad had the governor blocked out as well. Ha ha. Also I did a compression test and my assumption was right, the old girl is very weak even with the new piston and rings. It's 120lbs of compression cold, 110 hot. That cylinder is very scored.